Sorry, I tend to forget that not all people are technical. The Eeprom is the embeded "Brain" that keeps the memory instructions that control how everything in the Cars functions work everytime you start the car. It is not affected by removing the battery from the car. Using a Jump Starter can send an electrical spike and damage the memory, a bit like having a stroke. You need to reprogram the module with dealer level software. I have the file on my computer somewhere, but not the Terminal to do the ptogramming. An Autologic computer will program the whole car system. There is a back-up eprom in the Instrument panel, but the Can Bus needs to work to access it. As you know, these faults can be either simple, or take a long time to find.
The original fault code sometimes points to failing fuel pump in the tank. ie. the temperature sensor within theinternal wiring loom.

Ah ok. I'll need to contact a fellow with the right equipment.
But now, after I've been driving for some time with the fuel cap off the previous fault codes not appear anymore. But now offcourse I get new fault code when the car goes into limp mode. P0299, which says a underboost turbo. And when I go into that code it's indicate still a possible injector failure. Seems this possible?

Hi, split in Turbo hose from the turbo behind the right hand side of the engine to the inlet under the centre front of the engine. Two hoses and a steel pipe which runs under the engine in an S-Bend. its usually the top one at the front that goes. I found they blow when the turbo over boosts the pressure. If you have to change a hose, make sure you get new Stainless Steel hose clips. I bought a replacement hose assembly with worm drive clips which broke when I tightened the clamp. Rimmerbros.co.uk in England are usually quick at sending parts out, just mention the clips when ordering. If you have a stuck injector, you will see black smoke in the rear view mirror, especially on over run, ie. rolling the throttle off. I would for peace of mind, check all the hoses are in good condition, including the breather behind the left hand side of the large intake trunking. Blanking off the EGR valve is not recommended for these engines, as the ECU relies on it to operate the Turbo variable vanes correctly, as its part of the emission system. In some countries people fall foul of the law, ie. Germany over the emission scandel altering anything related to emission certification. The problem with modern engines is the inter relationship of the various sensors is so finely balanced that it does not take much to upset the balance and stop the engine.

Thank you so much for the quick and detailed answer. So just to know if I understood correctly, the turbo hoses u mention it's not the short one from the throttle valve? Because this is new. I also forgot to mention a plausible caise, I realized it's a crack in the air filter housing, I've for the moment just duck tape it. Before I get a hold on some plastic welding, but is the car so sensible if this is not 100% sealed?
By the way, my car is left hand drive, so. When you say one hose is on the left hand, is that when you look in the engine room or when you sit in the car?
Abot the egr blank, this was done due to a chip tuning, so it's deleted" from the ecu, just after I blanked it, this is almost 4 years ago, so I think this is not causing all this annoying problems now?🤔

Hi, sitting in the drivers seat. If the top hose is new, next look at the bottom hose on the turbo. Its awkward to get to with the Sub-frame on. You will have to undo the worm drive at the bottom of the manifols pipe, undo two bolts holding the under pipe to the engine, that allows you to pull the steel hose out or the top pipe and get the fitting off the turbo outlet. The pipe can get quite oily, so taking it off and looking at the pipes in good light will determine whether the hoses are good. I would check the top one too as it might have blown again.You need to get the car up in the air to get in there and also remove the mudguard under the righthand inner wing , as if you are taking the cambelt cover off. I had the turbo and EGR valve replaced on my 2009 car together, as a dodgy EGR valve takes out the turbo sooner or later. THe garage also reset the turbo and EGR valve operating parameters to get the boost right again. So consider that a re-map might, or might not improve the life of other parts of the engine. I used to run a racing team, and altering one part of an engine without doing the whole system does not always win races. I found the same with brakes. Cheap discs and pads worked as well as expensive, but under maximun stress, cheap pads were dangerous, try no brakes coming into a sharp corner at 145 mph, five cars abreast, a dozen cars yards behind, and whoops, no brakes, what do i do now in a tenth of a second to act? Interesting situation.
THe airbox will be Ok with a layer of Gaffer tape covered in plastic filler utill you can fix it properly. Many a racing car is held together with gaffer tape to get to the end of a race. The Americans used to keep their planes in the air with it in WW2.
Sometimes the solution to aproblem is something so simple one never sees it.

Ok, will do. I have the longer one laying around that goes from the L shaped plastic pipe, and to the bottom left when looking in the engine room. But is this hose directly to turbo? I thought this was just intercooler" hose. As the turbo is located on the right side ? It am I totally noob off right there. Anyhow, good to hear that I should se some black smoke if it's injector related, because I haven't noticed that. But yesterday, when I drove for about 30 minutes ride, it's startet to smell like burned clutch, even doh I was mainly not the highway and seldom using either clutch or gear. So it seems to add new problems every week now😳.

Not=on

Hi, you got me thinking there, as I did mine standing on my head upside down. I am suggesting taking all the rubber hoses off to inspect them as a precaution in effect. THe pressure side starts at the turbo outlet, and, thinking about it, I have heard of Intercoolers splitting at the front due to salt corrosion. Another thought is the MAF sensor failing, but that should show on diognostics. The 2008 FL2 I am having all the trouble with at the moment has a newer engine in now, but the electrics seem to have a short in the Canbus system somewhere. I am going to try and download the Landrover system onto a Laptop to get it out of Crash Mode. Dealers always say get it to our workshop. No good if it will not run of course. Hope you get there soon.

Ah you got yourself an good old mystery to solve. Good luck to you to..
As stated yesterday, new problems keep showing up, now today, guess what.. yes a new problem, suddenly I went from quarter tank to 0. So no I got problems with the sensor inside the tank I guess😳.
Another thing I forgot to mention, it drives much smoother
When I drive it first time when engine is cold, so many that can be a pipe failure like you told me? That when the engine heat up, the silicon pipes expanding?

\I have never tried Silicon pipes since having them blown off of commercial vehicles. There are different grades of silicon hose, yes they can blow up like a balloon with pressure. They rarely seem to have canvas reinforcing like rubber pipes do. It is a bit wet today, so not worth playing outside. According to the wiring diagram, there are two sensors on the same wiring, both relate to temperature. Fuel gauge is either a lack of signalfromthe CJB, or, as you say, the wiring in the tank. There is a download from Landrover on this forum giving how to check the loom.

It's just me an my mechanic knowledge just calling the original pipes for silicone. Its original pipes all over. What's CJB?🤔😄

Central junction box. It is behind the glove box. There is a large rubber plug under the rear passenger seat behind the driver one removes to get at the fuel tank and its pipes and wiring. You will need to bend a small hook out of stiff wire to lift the clip on the loom plug. THer are Can bus connecting plugs that can get damp in the boot fuse box, always worth a look, very thin wire on the can bus.

I've been behind that cover under passenger seat. It's a strange fuzzing noice, which is normal from what I've read, also on that same post I read that it's the "sensor" inside the tank that is getting "irr"(green rust), if u know what I mean by that. And that is not available from that place? From what I remember reading the tank need to be removed and flushed etc😳.

Hi, Green corrosion is usually found on bare copper. I wonder if your fuel is laced with a Bio-Fuel additive? I had trouble with additives in petrol in Sweden in 1968! Other people say they hear buzzing noises, but in my experience in DC systems it is a relay that is faulty, or a buzzer on the secondary alarm on some FL2's.

Hmm. Maby so, I'm usually gassing up at my local gas station that are best on price, but probably not best quality, idk:) anyway, I'm happy as long as the car don't stop anymore, but I will take my knowledge from what you told me and bring "the beast" to a local garage tomorrow, hopefully they can help me bring back my turbo to life, and also the other problem with the gas tank, because from what I also read about that corrosion, is that fault also can cause limp mode. It's so many things that can be faulty on this car that can give limp mode it's starting to feel like driving a bingo car