Hi. First post here and it's a tricky one!

A few months ago, a mouse hopped off the floor of my Freelander 2 petrol model and shot under the dash. Next day, the airbag light was on. The following day, the stereo stopped working (the screen lights up and I can set the time but nothing else works); the navigation display stopped working (except it lights up with the Land Rove logo for a second or two, goes blank for a few seconds and cycles this behaviour the whole time the ignition is on); and the rear parking sensors stopped working. The reverse camera isn't functioning either but that could just be because the screen isn't working?

Next day, I surprised a rat when I opened the bonnet. It had chewed the injector wires, but, thankfully, that was an easy fix. A friend made life toxic for the rodents and there have been no more problems. However, I cannot trace the other problems and thought I'd test the collective wisdom of a group who know the car better than me.

In the months since, I have pulled the facia apart (removed nav screen, audio system, heater controls and glovebox), removed the front and rear and sides of the area around the gear lever and handbrake, lifted the spare wheel and chased the wiring in the back (rodents had also eaten underneath the seats), removed the plastic that hides the bulkhead under the bonnet and chased the wiring around from there, lifted both front seats and the various electronic items hidden under them, as well as poking a torch under the dash as much as possible. All of that and no sign at all of any damage to the wiring. I really don't know where else to look and wonder if anyone can advise me what to do next?

The car is a Japanese import and has a very complex Pioneer system fitted (fancy aerials on the roof, multi DVD player, a possible duplication of the navigation system, reverse camera, rain sensor etc. etc.). I don't know if that makes a difference but it could. I'd happily dump that whole system!

Despite some really annoying beepers and auto "features", I do very much like the car and would like to sort it out. Any help would be gratefully received! (Oh yes, I did take it to an auto-electrician who just said "Leave it here for a day" - not practical for me and who knows how much that would cost?)

These sort of issues are always time consuming & can take days to find especially if nothing is blatantly obvious. A good starting point would be to check for fault codes & see what comes up. Hoping of course that non of the obd wiring has been chewed! Check all the fuses for those systems as they might have blown due to short circuits etc. You will need the wiring diagrams, which are available on the forum if you look.

Good luck with it. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

A lot of vehicles have gone up in flames here with the mouse plague. Chasing wires & looking absolutely thoroughly at each wire & connector will take at least a week.

You will need to remove all the trim panels as there are plenty of places mice can make a home & while at it chew the car.

Photos in this thread behind trim panels to give you some idea of the unfortunate task ahead: https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic33026.html



We had mice in the house roof, had to replace all the insulation. It was over a week just vacuuming alone. Also fixed electrical wires which they chewed through. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

That mouse is your real problem. It needs to be removed, along with any offspring, not an easy job! I would suggest that the Instrument Panel wiring loom needs renewing, connected at the bottom of the nearside A-Post behind a plastic cover. A mouse will travel under the carpet to the back, under the seats, through into the engine bay, and might, as has been suggested, set fire to the car. I had Harvest Mice in a new house once, took months to get them from under the floors. I had one in the centre of a Christmas Pudding in the Larder! my wife threw a fit as she was just about to cook it.

Thanks for the replies. I found the wiring diagramme on this site and it is comprehensive! I assume the damage is localised, but the location may not be obvious from the diagrammes as they are schematic. I have started working through them. I have to say, the manic complexity is what I absolutely hate about modern vehicles!

I have a scanner, a WiFi one that works with my iPad. Unfortunately, the software I use only seems to read the engine. Is there any recommended software that would cover more? Maybe if it even tells me which airbag is at fault, it will give me a physical location to search from. It's hard to know what theses various software packages actually do, so someone's actual experience will help!

Hi, I have an Icarsoft V2, it will let you run through twenty four modules. It will reset the service and some software. I am still finding out all of its capabilities. I also have a Gendan system on a Laptop, which shows live data, but struggles with all modules. A lot of people recommend a Gap IID unit, but more expensive. Autologic is what a lot of garages use. White wires are Can Bus and Lin Bus data cables, so if one is cut through behind the dash, the Instrument Panel will lose connection. I have been looking for two weeks to get my 2008 car running. It ran for a few seconds after putting the battery in, but now shows the Can Bus is down. The fuse box behind the Glove Box is the Nodal Point of the system. THere are some fibre optic data cables under thee tunnel carpet to under the bottom of the centre dash panel. Look at the Seat Wires underneath as they are often a problem on modern cars. The Restraints module is supposed to be under the tunnel carpet about where the handbrake cables connect.

Thank you, that was genuinely helpful! Looks like I'll have to set a day aside and do more stripping (thank goodness for those powerfuluk UTube videos!). Fibre optic cables under the tunnel, airbag module in a similar place sound likely and that fusebox is also quite likely, if naughty mouse got behind it. Cheers.

Mice will have to chew through the passenger fuse box. I am one of the few game enough to open it up. It is easy enough to unplug it & remove it to see if it is chewed.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic34833.ht...r+fuse+box Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Well, they didn't get to the fuse box behind the glove box. All good there. Next time I find a good block of time on a dry day, it will be out with the seats (as much as possible, nasty explosives under there!!) and transmission tunnel. Maybe, while I am doing that, I'll be able to do something about the infuriating seat belt beepers too...

Seat Belt Chime… something about ignition on (engine off) and rapidly fasten and release seat belt buckle ten times to disable (and to re-enable) the chimes.

Never tried it but it apparently applies to all JLR cars… ?

Oh wow! You might have something there. I just tried it and, on the tenth click, the beeper gave a sound to say something has happened. I won't be able to test it until I get onto a private road on my hunting block in a few hours but I am optimistic. Thank you.

Is there a similar fix for the auto-locking doors? I can unlock them on the button but it's so dangerous to have them the way they are.

ReggiePerrin wrote:

Seat Belt Chime… something about ignition on (engine off) and rapidly fasten and release seat belt buckle ten times to disable (and to re-enable) the chimes.

Never tried it but it apparently applies to all JLR cars… ?

From memory, the auto locking door function needs to be disabled in the CCF. Anyone with decent diagnostic kit can do that for you. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

The auto locking doors timing is done view the menu. I have turned mine off for river crossings!

Seat belt chimes easy to do.

& Service indicator reset I have posted the Land Rover page for MY13 & later. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

I was a happy man in the hunting block today, without the seat belt beeper. Very grateful for that!

As for the door lock thing, please pardon my ignorance but what is the CCF and what menu is referred to in the posts above?