On a 20 mile motorway run this morning I noticed that the temperature gauge was reading very low, on the return trip I connected an OBD11 reader and Torque which showed the coolant temperature varied between 56 & 65°C at a constant 70mph with a 18°C external temperature.

When I stopped I noticed that the fans were running but not at the high speed I have seen after a long hot trip, they stopped when I turned the engine off.

I don't know if there is any connection but I returned from a two week trip to Spain yesterday where I did a lot of hilly 2nd & 3rd gear driving with the temperatures in the high 30s.

Anyone have any ideas where I should start looking?, I do have a Mongoose adapter.

Thanks in advance

I have the i6, but all modern cars will pretty much want to run the coolant right around 90* C

The thermostat is closed below about 90* to restrict coolant flow and allow the engine to warm up.

As the temp reaches about 90*, the thermostat opens to allow full coolant flow. If the vehicle is moving at a good clip, airflow will keep the temperature near 90*.

If you stop or drive slowly, or climb a steep hill the airflow won't be enough and the fan(s) will come on to help, somewhere in the 90's.

If the car doesn't warm up, or cools down below normal at a fast clip or going downhill that means the thermostat is probably failed open (which is better than failed closed). But deal with it immediately, you don't want broken thermostat parts circulating in your cooling system (the i6 thermostat will do that). Plus it's not good for the longevity of the motor to drive it around below normal temp.

It may or may not be a very easy DIY, depending on where the thermostat is located.

Thanks, I hadn't thought about the thermostat.

40 years ago, it was the first thing that I though about, a YouTube video shows it isn't the 3 screws and a 5 bob part of those days.

Whilst it's a bit of a bodge, a well known "fix", for the Freelander 1 td4, ( thermostat failed open position ) was to fit ( from memory ), a Renault 5 thermostat in the radiator top hose if the original part failed, because the original part is virtually inaccessible without removing the engine. I bought a kit widely used in the Rover 75 world which consisted of a thermostat and two jubilee clips to secure it in place. Worked for me for several years and the car was running at the correct temperature with a toasty cabin when I sold it last year. Was around £20 and was a doddle to fit.😁

Still Lost in France wrote:

Thanks, I hadn't thought about the thermostat.

40 years ago, it was the first thing that I though about, a YouTube video shows it isn't the 3 screws and a 5 bob part of those days.

Quote:

Definitely DIYable . Page 959 of JLR manual

You’re on the forum, therefore you have access to the manual. All you have to do is look/ask.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic10621.html (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Still Lost in France wrote:

Quote:

Definitely DIYable . Page 959 of JLR manual

Unfortunately I don't have the JLR manual and Danny Glover came to mind watching the YouTube videos, so it's off to the local jobbing garage in the morning.

Quote:

Its free on here to download as a pdf - just search

The link to the manual is in post #7.

Still Lost in France wrote:

Quote:

Its free on here to download as a pdf - just search

O, I'll have a search for it, thanks

Sorry, but this forum is becoming “like banging your head against a wall”!  (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Still Lost in France wrote:

Quote:

Its free on here to download as a pdf - just search

O, I'll have a search for it, thanks