Hi. I have this fault on and of for a few months now.
All of a sudden while driving on the highway the engine staling and sometimes I have no power to manage drives on a straight road, and sometimes I have just enough power to drive upwards, but with limited power. The reduced engine performance warning message often go away while driving or after I restart the engine.

After going through this page in search of similar problems, the most common thing to to is changing the diesel filter. I have done this, and the problems even got worse.
So after the first breakdown after the filter change I managed to get into the fault code causing this (p1295-11 with an autel maxi obd reader).
And then I get 3 possible solution.
1 - is to calibrate the diesel filter or just to Tel the car that it has been changed.
2 - idle adjust

After I've done those 2 recommended fix the fault goes away for a longer period.
So now after a few weeks the stalling begins again. And I wonder if it's can be the third option: injector faults.
But I wonder if a faulty injector can cause intermittent fault or can it for example be a faulty cranck shaft sensor messing with my obd reader?

Is the new diesel filter a genuine Land Rover one? Or aftermarket?

Many seem to have problems with non genuine LR filters. 2014 Freelander 2 TD4 Manual Dynamic
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover - undergoing restoration

Its an aftermarket part. But will that give injector problems fault codes?

Hi, I would have a look at the Turbo Actuator. It has a habit of stripping the nylon gears due to a sticking linkage and carbon filled turbo vanes and also carbon filled EGR Valve. It also causes the Intercooler Pipes to burst due to over pressure.
Check the Crankshaft sensor with an oscilloscope to see what is happening to that as well to be sure. My Blue FL2 had the link rod on the Turbo removed by the dealer who sold it to me, one cannot be too careful as to what one is buying these days.

Hi .

Do you know if you had that fault code?
Now is the car even worse than before. Limp mode I can handel, but this engine seems to studder a bit just before Its dies.
I can start it again and usually it starts at once, and I can drive for 5 minutes or 2 hours. So it's very random. My gut feeling is it some kind of sensor related.
So the cranckshaft sensor is new, i open up the throttle valve to check if the plastic wheels was torn, but that was in perfect condition.
What about injector sensors? Is that something that can cause this problem.

I have also live recordings of my PCM while driving, many some experts on here can tell if something is off:)?

Hi, interesting readout! My guess is that the particulate filter is completely blocked. 80,000 miles is a long distance without regeneration. The engine oil temperature would suggest that all the oil is carburised. It should be no more than 140 degrees centigrade, or less. The engine, from the readout, needs a forced regeneration, you will need a dealer level diagnostics to do it. After regeneration the engine oil needs to be renewed. You might also have a leak in the DPF filter pipes connecting the DPF to the differencial pressure valve. The pressure is low, so suggesting the filter is blocked. Ad-Blu tanks only last around 80k miles, is it leaking?

A lot of Car Sales Outlets routinely, before selling the car, take off the DPF filter, and heat it up with an Acetelene torch to burn out the soot before putting the car up for sale. No reset is done, so after the three month warranty ends, you are on your own.

Ask on the forums if someone can do a new scan with dealer level software to double check. You might need to flash the ECU as well, looking at the instrument panel reading. I would also scan the high pressure pump, this fails regularly on Ford engines, which is which this one is based on, and the fault code suggests that it is failing.

I hope you sort it OK, as you need a second opinion on this one.

Thank you so much for your detailed answer.
I'm not sure the readings I correct when it comes to DPF. I remember when I bought the car 2.5 years ago, first thing that happened was a fault message that the DPf was full, I did a 15 min ride on high rpm, and that sorted it out that time, and only have got that message 1 or 2 times after.
Scary that the oil temp is so much over recommend temperature, could that also be that I have used a cheap oil maby.
I also saw on my readings that oil pressure sensor is false?

Anyhow, I think I need to do as you say and get a second opinion, unfortunately I'm located in Norway, so not to much land rover experts around here:)

I'll give an update how the progress go

Hi again, a failing Haldex coupling can give some funny symptoms. The actuator I mentioned is on the Turbo body with a black plastic lid. The Haldex can lock with a jerk, then release. The clutch plates break up and block the ports internally. Cheap oil is not recommended for these engines unless you change the oil every 3000 miles, but the correct recommended oil is better. I have just changed a hydraulic locked engine on a 2009 FL2. I think it pumped oil from a failed turbo bearing. It had no fault codes, but it does not have a DPF fitted either. I hope you can find someone to do a proper scan. Have a look on other Land Rover forums for someone in Norway to help out. The software is Ford based, so a Ford garage might be able to help. Good Luck, Paul

Don’t scrimp and save on oil, tyres or brakes. Seems daft to do that when we’re talking about what was a fairly expensive car when new. Age will not have reduced the quality of the oil that it needs. If anything it needs even better now with all the wear that has taken place!

Jagracer wrote:

Hi, interesting readout! My guess is that the particulate filter is completely blocked. 80,000 miles is a long distance without regeneration. The engine oil temperature would suggest that all the oil is carburised. It should be no more than 140 degrees centigrade, or less. The engine, from the readout, needs a forced regeneration, you will need a dealer level diagnostics to do it. After regeneration the engine oil needs to be renewed. You might also have a leak in the DPF filter pipes connecting the DPF to the differencial pressure valve. The pressure is low, so suggesting the filter is blocked. Ad-Blu tanks only last around 80k miles, is it leaking?
.

Ad-Blu? in a TD4? No Ad-Blu on mine 2014 Freelander 2 TD4 Manual Dynamic
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover - undergoing restoration

A little update regarding this big issue.
Weirdest thing, I have now been driving 3 says without the engine stopping, the solution so far is to drive without the fuel cap on.
But still, the car, I'm not sure the right English term for it, but it studder/hesitate from around 2200 rpm, it's seems to miss the turbo almost. I have checked if the plastic wheels inside the throttle Valve, and that seems to be in perfect condition. So I guess either it's something wrong with that regardless of that, maby a sensor or possible the turbo is singing the last verse?

HI, glad its now running better. I think you need to be sure the EGR valve is working, as it eventually knocks out the Turbocharger by giving it incorrect signals and your emmissions will not be consistant. The EGR valve will stick if the engine has done mostly short low speed journeys. The carbon will also make the throttle valve stick. These engines need to be run at constant speeds of around 70 to 80 miles an hour for long periods to stop carbon build up. The only time that I have had no trouble with a diesel is when I was travelling 1000 miles a week to and from work. Leaving the fuel cap off suggests the Fuel Tank breather system is faulty, and you are getting fuel starvation to cause a stutter. ( I have just thought, is it a petrol or diesel engine?)

can egr cause prblems even if i have blinded it? yes the car isnt often used for long journeys, mostly because i dont dare to take it to the cabin for an example;)
About the fuel cap, it eas something i came over recently with similar problems, and from what i understood you can get a hold on a new type cap. yes its a diesel:) so i guess that for now i can hopefully find it out myself without involving some expencive work shop to read out my injectors;)

Hi again. Most of the faults I have seen relate to 2008 FL2's. I have had similar problems on our 2008 FL2. It seems that the Air Box can rub through the wiring loom just under the front of the engine fuse box, left side of the engine bay on UK cars. THis causes a Can Bus fault. The ECU programming appears to have been updated over the years by Landrover, so the EEProm in the fuse box behind the glove box is your starting point, as you have an intermitant loss of Can Bus communication with the instrument panel. It is, from the readout you gave invoking Crash Mode, which disconnects the CanBus. Your Lamda should read 2v with a hot engine, so yours is out of range, which upsets emmisions.

Hi. And thanks for your reply. My technical knowledge in car language is minimum. But for what I understood I should go over the wires going under the air filter housing. But what u mean after that I don't understand completely.
EEProm, what does this mean and how do I do it 😄?