Freel2,

My daughter will be taking he LR2 to University in a few weeks so I installed a new battery and a new Positive terminal.


For the B+ terminal I used the Volvo part

I am not sure that LAND Rover will sell you this part separately







I tightened the 13 mm nuts to 17 newton meters (because that's what it took to remove them from the old terminal)

If you prefer 12.5 Ft * LBS or 150 inch * LBS






And I bought a new hold down







Here is the battery that I bought

Click image to enlarge

I just bought exactly the same thing two days ago.

Why did you need to change the terminal and hold down? Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

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Bob,

I bought the hold down to use on my S80 because it doesn't have a long easily assessible bolt like the LR2.

But after reviewing the battery cable routing differences between the S80 and LR2 I noticed that the S80 red cable would rub on the long bolt.

So I installed the new bracket on my LR2.
(Full disclosure I also lost the O-ring and the aluminum spacer on my LR2 clamp some time in the past)



As for the B+ clamp.

I replaced the one on my LR2 because my S80 B+ clamp has significant corrosion (and its two years younger)

If the new Volvo clamp on the S80 has problems then I will switch to the LR2 style.

Corroded 2010 Volvo Clamp pictures
Warning this is not Land Rover content

TXFireblade wrote:

I just bought exactly the same thing two days ago.

The Landy is still trucking along, thanks for asking I've got a fairly long (650 miles each way) road trip coming up and since the battery was 5 years old I thought I'd see if it need to be replaced. It started the car OK every time but I bought a simple battery/starter/alternator tester and it said the battery only had 36% capacity left even after fully charging it. It was also not charging beyond about 13.2 volts so I may have an alternator issue but it's hard to tell with the adaptive charging setup on these cars. It seems to be charging better now with the new battery but at a lower voltage than I would have expected. Do you know what your charging voltage is?

TX,

Depending on the outside temperature the LR2 will vary the voltage for a fully charged battery

Assuming that your CCF is setup for a Wet cell the FLOAT Voltage will be

14.3 Volts at the freezing point of water 32 F

12.5 Volts at 120 F


The Voltage that you are seeing with the battery fully charged and the Alternator just maintaining the State of Charhge makes sense if the temperature is between 75 F and 95 F

If it hotter than that range the Voltage should be lower

If its colder then the voltage should be higher

Click image to enlarge

Here is my Voltage at Idle

90F

AC is on (Fans at radiator on highest setting)

Radio is on

Headlights are on






If I turn everything off the Voltage will be higher about 14.1 Volts



Let me know if this helps


Thanks

Paul

Thanks Paul. Looks like my alternator is not putting out full charge. Any suggestions for a good replacement brand?

The BOSCH remanufactured unit on my S80 3.2 works really well.

But it is expensive

At RockAuto it is showing $244

I would be tempted to get the AC Delco for $128 (but it is 150 Amp not 180 Amp)


For my LR2 I replaced the OAP clutched pulley on the Alternator but I haven't replaced the brushes.


Rebuilding your alternator is another option.


Note: the OAP (clutched pulley) cost a little over $100


Good luck

Paul

Thanks Paul. I ordered the Bosch 180A unit. When you changed the unit on your Volvo, did the Bosch alternator come with the pulley? The Image from Rock Auto shows it fitted.

The previous owner bought it.

So it came with the car.

If the picture on Rock Auto doesn’t match what you get you should return it.


I think that you have removed the intake manifold to replace the Thermostat
Assuming yes then the Alternator is pretty straight forward to remove with the Manifold removed.

The only hard part is on reassembly is getting the Roll Pins to seat.


You can see the roll pins in the video at 10:30

The Volvo mechanic who made the video uses a tool to press the roll pins into the block

Note: he calls them dowel pins but I think the correct name is roll pins



Good luck

Paul

I've had the intake off before so no problem there and the alternator is easy if you know the trick with the roll pins. I haven't done the thermostat yet so considering doing that while I have the manifold off. Where did you buy your manifold gaskets from?

For the intake manifold gaskets I use

LR001454 made by Victor Reinz you will need 6 but they only cost $2.35 each

https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/LR001454-MFG17-V8246.aspx

Note: I would need to check the shelf but I suspect that I have at least 12 just waiting there for me.


Parts list for a Thermostat change
(This is what I replace at the same time)

LR006071 or 31355151 - Thermostat (I recommend a VOLVO or LAND ROVER part only)

LR001491 - Screw for Thermostat (Qty 4) optional the old screw can be used

LR001442 or 30713530 - Coolant Hose for heat exchanger

LR001505 or 31109235 - O-Ring for heat exchanger hose

LR000491 - Bolt for Heat exchanger hose optional the old screw can be used

LR019341 - engine to expansion tank coolant hose (This line will leak and drip coolant on you new alternator, I highly recommend replacing this part)

LR001454 - intake manifold gasket Qty 6 needed (the link shown above)



Good luck


Paul


PS for the roll pins do you use the technique shown in the video or do you have an alternate reccomendation?

That's just what I needed. For the roll pins I used the same technique as the video except I found a drill bit that worked just fine.

Thanks again for all the help.