I'd read about fuel filter changes on FL2's being a bit complex and was almost dreading doing it but following the advice to draw fuel through the port marked 4 really was easy.
Unbolted and removed all the lines, new filter in and 1,2 and 3 connected. I had bought a priming bulb on ebay but unfortunately it was 6mm pipe and port 4 is about 10mm in diameter and I simply could not get it to fit on. Went hunting the garage shelves for someting else and came across this fluid suction pump that Id previously used for filling transfer box on the Discovery. Its pipe was a good tight push fit onto the filter and was able to draw diesel through the filter using it. Took about 6 draws in total, removing and pushing the piston fully in before reattaching and drawing more diesel. You could hear it flowing in and it didnt flow back out again when I took pipe off after each draw,
Diesel through, last pipe connected, started instantly. I let it idle for a few minutes before switching off. Next 2 starts it cranked over a bit longer than usual before starting and running normally. After a drive of a couple of miles its back to normal starting. Job done!
So that completes a major service for less than £100 including all genuine filters and Millers Oil


 Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Changed my fuel filter using the same method as Bobupndown. No problems at all, at least with getting the car running.

The fuel inlet pipe from the tank to filter (lower left connection when fitted to the car) seems to be loose when connected to the filter - am I missing something? It doesn't leak but it doesn't seem to want to 'click' in like the other pipes.

It will come out easily with application of some force, whereas the other pipes won't budge after being connected. It was very difficult to remove from the old filter (same brand - Bosch) so I'm concerned I've broken something, though I can't see what that could be. Definitely need to take a closer look at this since I'm going on a 500 mile round trip next week. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Hi,
Did my fuel filter change a couple of days ago and yes there is some movement of the pipes but not really loose !

I also undid the fuel guard plate (only 3 nuts?) to get a bit more access and used one of these to "pull" the fuel through as Alex has said
The stuff tube was loose on the pipe but snug fit in the "collar" or "stop" when pushed all the way on.

It fired up then cut out, 2nd start cranked over 3-4 secs and fired up, road test and back to normal

I also prime mine on the bench. I have a very small tundish, leave the red blanking cap on & fill up via the white port. Never had a problem and aways starts first time.

Quote:

I have a very small tundish,

Sorry to hear about your medical complaint, but glad you got your fuel filter changed  Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Cheeky!

There's no need to draw fuel through with these bulb devices. Just cap the lines when you remove the filter - particularly the one from tank to filter to prevent fuel withdrawing backwards. Then just fill the new filter on a bench and you're good to go. Done 4 or 5 now this way.

The Mahle (KL581) filter comes with the 4 correctly sized caps for this purpose.

Ok help needed from the fuel filter change experts please as I’m going to do mine next service.
The electrical connection underneath to the “Water in Fuel” sensor do you take the sensor out of the old filter and use in the new one or is it all part of the filter LR001313 and just change over electrical connection ?
Only reason I ask is the LREPC shows a separate sensor🤔 MY15
Tyre Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS)
Surround Camera System
InControl Apps soon to be replaced with CarPlay (WIP)
Meridian Premium Surround Sound
Digital Audio Broadcast
Timed Climate
Cruise ECO Data
Follow Me Home Reverse
Extra Features Menu
Picture In Motion
4x4i screen (WIP)
Digital Broadcast TV
Meridian Rear Media with WIFI
Factory Powered Tailgate
Blind Spot Monitoring (BSM)
Reverse Cross Traffic Alert (RCTA)
Electrochromatic Wing Mirrors (WIP)

As far as my car is concerned - MY13, there’s nothing connected to the Wire.
It plugs into the base of the filter, but there are no connections in the filter itself.
Didn’t bother clipping it back to the new filter the other day - it’s a right pain to release where it is.
As for priming - I use the diesel in a clean container method - pour clean diesel into a suitable container large enough to fully submerge the new filter, leave it in there whilst you remove the old one.
Fit the new one, reattach the fuel lines and start the car - always first crank and no stutter or hesitations whatsoever.
No need to plug the lines even I find, and I’ve done three changes now on two different cars.

Thxs for the info
That’s odd that the connector was just clipped into base of the filter🤔 I’ve not looked at my current one but EPC shows a sensor and I’ve had a warning “Water in Fuel” before so I must have one (MY15). Just wasn’t sure if new filter came with one already attached.
Since my last reply I’ve been informed to just remove sensor from old filter and change over to new one.
Sounds straightforward.  MY15
Tyre Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS)
Surround Camera System
InControl Apps soon to be replaced with CarPlay (WIP)
Meridian Premium Surround Sound
Digital Audio Broadcast
Timed Climate
Cruise ECO Data
Follow Me Home Reverse
Extra Features Menu
Picture In Motion
4x4i screen (WIP)
Digital Broadcast TV
Meridian Rear Media with WIFI
Factory Powered Tailgate
Blind Spot Monitoring (BSM)
Reverse Cross Traffic Alert (RCTA)
Electrochromatic Wing Mirrors (WIP)

Today I changed the fuel filter on my 2013 Freelander at 43k.
It took about an hour and was quite easy.
1. Remove engine cover 2 studs with washers on front and 1 nut at rear, the wriggle the cover off with care (first time cover has been off)
2. Remove the 3 Allen key bolts on filter
3. Remove the 4 nuts at front and gently pull bracket towards the front (no need to remove) to allow filter to be removed
4. Remove the 4 fuel pipes and electrical connection,( be careful not to kink pipes)
4. Wriggle the filter out, removing push on electrical connection, also remove over flow pipe both underneath filter body
(N.B.The electrical connection on my vehicle was not connected to anything bit fiddly )
5. Fit the filter in reverse order but leave the 2 pipes on right of filter.
6. Fill the filter with clean diesel make sure fuel is clean diesel, I did this by using an 8 mm plastic tube pushed into the front connector (right) on the fuel filter till fuel leaks out at the back connect (right) I used a syringe with plunger taken out holding it 40 cm above engine to allow fall, (a few times it allowed air back into syringe) took about 70-90 cl to fill.
7. Once fuel seeped out of rear connector stop filling.
8. Connect pipes onto filter and electrical connector.
9. Start engine with rpm at about 1100,wait for a short time ad rpm will increase on its own, check for leaks.
10. Leave on tick over for a few minutes.
11. Clean excess fuel off fuel filter then refit engine cover take for a short run
12. JOB DONE
(Note used genuine LR filter)
Hope this helps someone
Richard

Bobupndown wrote:

I'd read about fuel filter changes on FL2's being a bit complex and was almost dreading doing it but following the advice to draw fuel through the port marked 4 really was easy.
Unbolted and removed all the lines, new filter in and 1,2 and 3 connected. I had bought a priming bulb on ebay but unfortunately it was 6mm pipe and port 4 is about 10mm in diameter and I simply could not get it to fit on. Went hunting the garage shelves for someting else and came across this fluid suction pump that Id previously used for filling transfer box on the Discovery. Its pipe was a good tight push fit onto the filter and was able to draw diesel through the filter using it. Took about 6 draws in total, removing and pushing the piston fully in before reattaching and drawing more diesel. You could hear it flowing in and it didnt flow back out again when I took pipe off after each draw,
Diesel through, last pipe connected, started instantly. I let it idle for a few minutes before switching off. Next 2 starts it cranked over a bit longer than usual before starting and running normally. After a drive of a couple of miles its back to normal starting. Job done!
So that completes a major service for less than £100 including all genuine filters and Millers Oil

Did this yesterday - a breeze with this pump connected to port 4 (to HP pump - the one that comes with a red cap (in the case of genuine LR filter)) as per Alex's guidance. The tube of this pump was a perfect push fit onto the outlet stub -


 2014 Freelander 2 TD4 Manual Dynamic
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover - undergoing restoration

I bought mine from machine mart which was supplied with plastic clear hoses which were the correct size to fit hose and filter, just less than 20 quid, very handy and cheap, although machine mart reasonable quality.

Euro car parts have similar too. Not sure how much tho.

Mine came from ebay for just over £6 & has been used numerous times for pumping oils since I bought it 2 years ago, a very handy piece of kit that has paid for itself many times over for me  2014 Freelander 2 TD4 Manual Dynamic
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover - undergoing restoration