Hi all, new member (but long time landy owner/tragic) as I just bought a FL2.
It's a 2010 TD4 with 155,000km so due for the big 10 year service.
So far on the list I have:

- Timing belt (including water pump and aux belt)
- Oil change
- Fuel filter
- Intake manifold clean and swirl flap removal
- EGR blanking
- Haldex filter and oil
- Diff and front transfer oil

Car runs nicely, I did hear a slight bit of droning noise from the rear when driving the other day but haven't looked further if it's brakes, wheel bearing or diff pinion (or tyre noise if I'm very lucky).

Anything else that should be included in this service?

Correct me if im wrong but isnt EGR Blanking a MOT fail now???

Might be in the UK but not in Aus (or at least haven't heard of it ever being checked)

It is but only if it is clearly 'visible and identifiable' but in any case, the OP won’t have to worry about UK mot regulations.

Edit: Slow typing, OP beat me to it! Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

Welcome Perko MY11 SD4 SE Auto

perko wrote:

Might be in the UK but not in Aus (or at least haven't heard of it ever being checked)

& NSW has the toughest regulations in the country. If it doesn't blow too much smoke the car is ok & if the arduous braking test is better than the oldest road registered car in NSW which has leather brakes, your car gets a pass!

A South Australian road registered car which is a touch behind on its auto detailing. Their rear window seemed to have just been stolen!

Click image to enlarge

 Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Have had some parts arrive.
Noticed the Dayco timing belt kit doesn't come with a new crank bolt however the workshop manual says to install a new one.

Worth going looking for one or is it not required?

I think a new bolt is highly recommended.
I'm surprised its not in the kit - Ive got to change my belt this year - maybe I'll go with the Gates kit instead of Dayco. Jules

I've never bothered with using a new bolt.

However, having had my front end fall off last year I will be doing it in future.

Unless Loctite is an alternative. With that crank bolt I'd go for a new bolt though. MY11 SD4 SE Auto

The crank pulley bolt is a stretch bolt, which needs renewing whenever it's been removed.
It comes in the Gate's belt kit (my preference), but not in the Dayco kit for some reason.
You'll need to order one, as you don't want that bolt to break, or come loose. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

ozjeff62 wrote:

I've never bothered with using a new bolt.

However, having had my front end fall off last year I will be doing it in future.

Unless Loctite is an alternative. With that crank bolt I'd go for a new bolt though.

@perko, I suggest you re-read the manual. Crankshaft pulley bolt torque is 70Nm + 82°. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

perko wrote:

ozjeff62 wrote:

I've never bothered with using a new bolt.

However, having had my front end fall off last year I will be doing it in future.

Unless Loctite is an alternative. With that crank bolt I'd go for a new bolt though.

Bolt snapped or came undone?
I suspect that the requirement for a replacement bolt might be due to the fact they come with a dab of loctite already on them rather than genuinely being torque to yield (70Nm is not near the recommended max torque of a grade 10.9 M14 bolt at 150Nm).

If I do have to reuse it will definitely loctite it on.

perko wrote:

I suspect that the requirement for a replacement bolt might be due to the fact they come with a dab of loctite already on them rather than genuinely being torque to yield (70Nm is not near the recommended max torque of a grade 10.9 M14 bolt at 150Nm).

If I do have to reuse it will definitely loctite it on.

merlinj79 wrote:

perko wrote:

ozjeff62 wrote:

I've never bothered with using a new bolt.

However, having had my front end fall off last year I will be doing it in future.

Unless Loctite is an alternative. With that crank bolt I'd go for a new bolt though.

Bolt snapped or came undone?
I suspect that the requirement for a replacement bolt might be due to the fact they come with a dab of loctite already on them rather than genuinely being torque to yield (70Nm is not near the recommended max torque of a grade 10.9 M14 bolt at 150Nm).

If I do have to reuse it will definitely loctite it on.

A bolt is specified for one use only if...

a) It has loctite pre-applied

and/or

b) It's designed to permanently stretch (ie plastic deformation) when torqued.


You don't want to reuse b), because you have to stretch it even further to get to the torque the second time, which it wasn't designed for.

I do reuse some bolts (apply loctite) but it's hard to know whether they are a) or b) (or both). Bolts on large rotating parts are more likely to be b). If the consequences of failure would be high, I'll just spring for the new bolt. Flywheel bolts, and end bolts on crankshafts and camshafts come to mind.