Hello I need to replace the front drivers wheel bearing.

I have read that it is best to replace the whole knuckle. On this basis I have ordered a genuine landrover one.

I was wondering if someone could help me with the following.

1. Torque settings for the axle bolt, calliper bolts and bolt that clamps the knuckle to the strut.

2. Whether it’s necessary to use new bolts for the above.

3. Any special tools I will need.

I’d also appreciate any tips that from anyone who has done the job and also an idea of how difficult and how long it’s likely to take.

Many thanks mark.

I mean this in the nicest possible way, if you are already asking questions like this are you out of your depth?

However I know I could not do it


I had both front bearings done last week, I thought I had made a mistake by buying just the bearing hub part and not the whole knuckle, I paid £80 for a pair . . . .I asked my local garage if they would fit the parts I bought, they said yes, no problem, they had a press to remove old bearing etc, and they charged 2 hours labour ie £70 plus vat to fit them. total job therefore came out at around £165.

( I checked prices of the whole knuckle bit and got £260 for a pair . . . .)  2017 SEAT Ateca 4drive 2.0 xcellence (May 2022 -
2007 HSE with HST bodykit in Zermatt Silver 169,700 miles (dec 2016 - May 2022 )
2007 Honda Civic Type S GT (2012-2017)
2002 Mini Cooper S (2008-2012)
1992 Honda Legend 3.2i (2003-2008)
1990 Honda Concerto (1999-2003)
1985 Honda Accord (1997-1999)
1983 Honda Accord (1993-1997)
1983 Mini Mayfair (1988-1993)
1974 Mini 1000 (1979-1986)

You may be right lol.

I think it’s a pretty straightforward job with the knuckle (I paid £99 for a new genuine landrover one) - I just wanted to check torque settings really.

You may be right though, I’ll see what a local garage will charge.

Thanks Mark.

I like that reply, I half expected you to be offended and give me a list of all the cars you have dismantled through 30 years of slog


I can understand people wanting to work on their cars if they find it simple (arthritis stops me doing anything mechanical, its hard enough unscrewing the fuel cap )

There seems a lot of clever people on this site, then there's a few who seem to go through torture to do a repair, I have a tiny income and assume everyone is richer than me, so if I can manage to pay a professional, the bill must be peanuts to anyone with a greater cash flow , you just hope the pro's know what they are doing  2017 SEAT Ateca 4drive 2.0 xcellence (May 2022 -
2007 HSE with HST bodykit in Zermatt Silver 169,700 miles (dec 2016 - May 2022 )
2007 Honda Civic Type S GT (2012-2017)
2002 Mini Cooper S (2008-2012)
1992 Honda Legend 3.2i (2003-2008)
1990 Honda Concerto (1999-2003)
1985 Honda Accord (1997-1999)
1983 Honda Accord (1993-1997)
1983 Mini Mayfair (1988-1993)
1974 Mini 1000 (1979-1986)

Last sentence.....
Therein lies the rub.

Northcroft wrote:

I mean this in the nicest possible way, if you are already asking questions like this are you out of your depth?

At least he knows to ask for the torque values... navigating topix is harder than actually fixing these cars IMO

Personally I hate paying garage labour for something that I can do myself, happy to get stuck in as long as I have the right tools for the job and its often the case that buying the tools to enable you to do the job in the first place is still way cheaper. I also enjoy working at cars, most of the time! 👍 Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Mrdeli100 wrote:

Hello I need to replace the front drivers wheel bearing.

I have read that it is best to replace the whole knuckle. On this basis I have ordered a genuine landrover one.

I was wondering if someone could help me with the following.

1. Torque settings for the axle bolt, calliper bolts and bolt that clamps the knuckle to the strut.

2. Whether it’s necessary to use new bolts for the above.

3. Any special tools I will need.

I’d also appreciate any tips that from anyone who has done the job and also an idea of how difficult and how long it’s likely to take.

Many thanks mark.

I never worry to much about the torque setting on suspension parts tend to do them up as tight as I can. It's worked for me over the past years with out any issues. I have also reused the bolts again never had a issue, it's down to what you are happy with. The only really hard work is the front suspension it's self. When you get the wheels off the ground the suspension is still under tension. taking it apart is not too bad, but putting it bask together is a pain. The deals use a large G clamp that goes under the spring cup and on top of the strut under the bonnet. Its a two man job in the workshop instructions. Look for 204-619 special tool to get an idea. You will need a very long bar and the help of a friend the bigger the better when you are at it I would consider the lower arms as well throw in the drop links and roll bar bushes and it's almost a rebuild??

The workshop manual says it's a two stage process stage 1 tighten to 45nm stage 2 then tighten a further 80 degrees