tim_roberts wrote:

Just done mine. No visible signs of damage to the mechanism but a check with the multimeter showed the microswitch was dead, though it had never given any problems up to that point. Got a new one from ebay for £2.63 and all working fine now. A bit of a fiddle digging the old switch out of the plastic housing, but got there in the end.

Couldn't have done it without the pictures in this thread so many thanks for that.

My car has just turned 8 years old, and apart from a blown headlight bulb, this is the first thing that's actually gone wrong. I love it.

SHHHHH,good god man,i hope you were not in hearing distance of the car to make a rash statement like that!!!
Landrovers have ears(or whatever cars have?)
 gone
P38 v8 auto no problems,great howle from exhausts when giving it welly
Td5 auto head gasket,no5 pot not uncommon but good car.
1st Tdv6s manual epb problem fixed under warranty(stealer said"never heard of this before,i suggested he looked at d3 forum.
2nd Tdv6 se auto epb
3rd Tdv6 xs auto 2008,swmbo,s favourite.

mine packed up yesterday(59 plate).
looked on fleabay for a complete replacement,many on there from £24 to £28,called local stealers Barretts in Ashford Kent and picked one up for £21 50 all in .this was for the whole caboose inc number plate wiring and lights,so very happy with that and well done them!!also given advice on fitting more or less in line with the excellent starter post from ajuniper
the only difference was the light fitting for the number plate lights,but caused no problem.
total time taken just over an hour inc cleaning up.
the part number I got is LR079909
sandy gone
P38 v8 auto no problems,great howle from exhausts when giving it welly
Td5 auto head gasket,no5 pot not uncommon but good car.
1st Tdv6s manual epb problem fixed under warranty(stealer said"never heard of this before,i suggested he looked at d3 forum.
2nd Tdv6 se auto epb
3rd Tdv6 xs auto 2008,swmbo,s favourite.

21.50 all in, I got done by Listers, 22.24 all in, and in stock, so they must sell a fair few. Surprised it included the number plate lamps.

30 minutes start to finish, including a short break for a ham roll and a refreshing hot beverage courtesy of Mrs Oldgit, pity it arrived just as I was up a ladder trying to get the interior trim panel to fit on those top corners.

job done then
 gone
P38 v8 auto no problems,great howle from exhausts when giving it welly
Td5 auto head gasket,no5 pot not uncommon but good car.
1st Tdv6s manual epb problem fixed under warranty(stealer said"never heard of this before,i suggested he looked at d3 forum.
2nd Tdv6 se auto epb
3rd Tdv6 xs auto 2008,swmbo,s favourite.

Just done mine yesterday, 2013 reg, had 8mm bolts though not 10mm nuts. New one also had additional lead for something. All done in 30 minutes now works as it should

My 64 plate has just started opening itself, luckily it’s still under warranty until the end of January, managed to get booked into Lakeland LandRover this week. I presume that they’ll change the switch.

New switch fitted in less than an hour and working fine now. 64 plate TD4 SE Santorini Black
2021 Mazda MX5 GT Sport Tech

Similar problem folks new switch ordered yet another job to keep wee Freelander going!!

Have just used this thread and the pics. to change the tailgate switch on my 2014 SD4 and just thought a few things that came up might be useful to anyone else doing it on a newer car. No problem with it coming open on its own but couldn't unlock using the switch although the fob button worked fine so assumed the switch was duff rather than than the actuator.

The number plate light and switch holder trim piece has 8 nuts of 8mm holding it on rather than 6 of 10mm on the older cars. The nuts were also thread locked so I did the same when I put them back.

The rubber seal around the switch and the microswitch itself are now bonded in place which stops it getting full of crap and you can't remove it without damaging it. I had already bought a new switch from the dealer (£35 and came with wiring harness and new number plate lights etc, LR083610) so pulled it apart anyway. Totally clean inside with no crud or water, using a multimeter confirmed that the microswitch had failed.

The O rings on the new light fittings were quite a bit thicker than the old ones and and I couldn't get them to lock into place without putting more force on them than I was prepared to use on a small plastic part so I used the old ones and they went in easily and are still well sealed.

There is an extra lead which I guess is for the reversing camera if you have one.

It works correctly with new switch in place and everything went back together easily. Bit of shame to spend £35 on a new part to replace a microswitch that costs pence but digging the old one out and then sourcing and refitting it was going to be more trouble than it was worth and I wanted a quick fix as I am in and out the boot constantly which is probably why it failed!


Nice quick job, many thanks to the original poster and all those who added hints and tips.

Just done mine this morning before rain started. Straightforward job. I got my new switch assembly from PowerfulUK. £30. Looks good quality. Also went for the LED's for number plate lights. The new bulb holders are a very tight fit.
Spent longer repairing a broken lug and cleaning the incredible amount of gunge from under the handle than on any thing else.

Hi team.

Mine has done it today!

I’m seeing LR079909 and also LR083610 being mentioned. Which should I get? MY13, if that helps.

Thanks

Mine started playing up on Monday, along with an equally intermittent loss of the rear parking sensors.

It’s LR079909 that i’ve ordered, so I hope it is correct! 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

Changed mine earlier this year and its playing up again now! Hoped I'd get a replacement from the seller but see i actually bought it in Nov '19 so had it over a year! New one ordered from the bay of E. Hoped it might have lasted longer than that 😒 Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Just done mine, 2013 XS. Ordered LR083610 from lparts.net, as my main dealer is over an hour away (even in an sd4...). Went for the genuine part over the cheaper Britpart one (it was only £8 more). Needed this specific part number, as I have an OEM reverse cam, and most of the generic eBay aftermarket ones and the one Powerful UK do seem to lack the extra camera loom?

Thanks to the posters above who advised on how to remove the facelift tailgate handle - as they say, 8mm bolts rather than 10mm, and two extra bolts to undo. Fairly straightforward although had to cable tie a snapped clip to refit. I think I snapped it when removing the handle - I worked my way along the bolts from L-R but I reckon you'd be better off undoing the end bolts first and working your way inwards, which would probably put less stress on the two end bolts. They're a flimsier design than the central ones.

When messing around with the tailgate I noticed that my high level brake light bulb had blown, so took the opportunity to replace it with a LED and change the seal for the thicker one (previously purchased from eBay). Poured a jug of water over it and couldn't see any water ingress, so fingers crossed all will be well...

Changed my switch at the weekend, massive thankyou to whoever posted the disassembly pictures and the tip on buying (and modifying) an aftermarket switch.
Mine arrived from eBay for less than a fiver and within the hour I was grinning like a Cheshire Cat!
Dead easy (once you know how) and a very cheap solution.

Hi all just found this site and post, lots of info but my problem is different! There seems to be no power going to the tailgate release,
Everything else works, number plate light etcetc but the tailgate is dead whether I use the key pad release, the tailgate button or the dashboard release—- nothing, no clicks just dead !
I have managed to remove the internal panel, not completely but enough to see the latch, not removed the 10mm nuts for the number plate lights yet, not sure that will help ? I suspect it maybe the bend in the feed wire at the top of the tailgate and a wire has broken ?? Or is there only one “power” feed for all the tailgate units ?
Wondering if the unit at the bottom right on the latch could be operated by using a battery ? It has 3 wires into a white plug

Any advice gratefully received