Merhaba Can,

Did you remove the unit from your car or service it on the car? Also, did you remove both the pump and filter or just renew your filter? Back in the fold after 8 yrs. V8 Disco 300 series-Gone.07 Freelander 2 HSE Auto Rimini Red.
Gone.
2013 HSE Lux Havana ( Brown! )

Hi Soul Fan,
Firstly, thank you
I have not seen these transactions. Service made. How should it be done? I will do this process again

The masters said that these vehicles often fail the haldex unit with oil leakage, and that it is difficult to cut the leak and that I need to buy new haldex. I think they say this because they don't know how to do it. When I look at your shares, it seems to me that the leak can be cut[img][/img]

Last edited by Can on 13th Mar 2021 10:40 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Hi Can,

It may help people to suggest how to help you if you could take some photos of your Haldex to show where you think the oils are leaking??
Also, as you are a member of the forum you can search for your problems and read old posts which may help you also.
The search facility is at the top of the home page in the blue banner.
I did a quick search and found the link which I’ve posted below. This shows photos of a leaking Haldex unit which may help.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic31344.ht...ldex+leaks

Good luck  Back in the fold after 8 yrs. V8 Disco 300 series-Gone.07 Freelander 2 HSE Auto Rimini Red.
Gone.
2013 HSE Lux Havana ( Brown! )

Can wrote:

The masters said that these vehicles often fail the haldex unit with oil leakage, and that it is difficult to cut the leak and that I need to buy new haldex. I think they say this because they don't know how to do it. When I look at your shares, it seems to me that the leak can be cut[img][/img]

Soul Fan wrote:

Merhaba Can,

Did you remove the unit from your car or service it on the car? Also, did you remove both the pump and filter or just renew your filter?

The Gen 3 haldex can be serviced on the car. Both motor + motor filter and cartridge filter can be removed.
Its harder to do it on the Gen 4 because the filter cover is at the top.

Click image to enlarge

Also on the very late cars the flange is much larger and has to be removed in order to remove the motor. On cars with the smaller flange you can just get the motor off.



I remove my haldex completely. It only has 4 bolts holding it to the rear diff. Getting the prop shaft off the front of the flange was the hardest bit. Jules

My Gen 3 has the larger flange; I've changed the oil twice since ownership and the filter once. The filter that was in it was in very good condition and both times the oil was as well. I did not re & re the motor as I made a calculated decision based on the condition of the oil and the original (assumed) filter. It's a PITA to remove the flange just to get to the motor.

This thread gave me the courage to give it a shot

I have a 2010 210k equipped with a gen4 Haldex.
I was able to remove the pump as I have a propshaft with the smaller flange. When I opened the pump to clean the inner filter there was nothing much.
Btw, i collected 550ml of old oil by removing the pump-didnt sringe it out.

As for the filter which is placed on the upper part, it was a real pain. I removed the electronic card-i thik- that was attached to the unit. Then it was little bit easier. The bolt on the left was invisible, so it was a blind fight and took a long time to remove.

The oil was black, but no debris or gunk was observed.

I topped the new oil, turned on the ignition for 5mins, topped again and removed 50-60 ml+the amount in the hose. Everything was alright.

However (!)
5km later while I was driving, I felt a stutter for a second, and a couple of minutes later an error message (hdc/speacial programs off) appeared.
Stopped the car immediately, restarted and it was gone.

Any idea about what might have caused this?
I was considering some options:
1. FEBI made in Germany might not be the right choice as its viscosity seemed too thick during the change,
2. There might be some excess oil (drained 550, refilled 700ml, removed 50-70 not 100% sure)
3. The gump/debris came loose after the oil change

Maybe there was an airlock in the pump or filter or even the solenoid?
Hopefully the ECU is ok, as removing that isn't recommended, unless it's faulty.
I remove the whole unit, as it's easier to work on and clean, with it on the bench.
The fluid you got is correct, and what LR originally used when the vehicle was made. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

It could be the level was a bit low(see possible explanation below)...I replaced my filter yesterday(the one at the top with limited access) but not the pump filter, as id done this 10k miles ago so decided it didn't need doing

So, i'd replaced the main filter , then topped up the oil as per the manual, put the key on for five mins, topped up again(it didn't need any), then removed exactly 70ml as per the workshop manual .

Took it for a short drive and came back and because im a tinkerer with an overactive imagination I thought id check something
....it occurred to me the filter is ABOVE the fill hole so whilst topping it up no oil gets into the filter, and because there's no way to prime the filter whilst putting it in then surely unless you drive the car the Haldex wouldn't have activated and filled the filter with oil

therefore when I went for the short drive, the Haldex would have activated as normal and filled the top filter with oil as it does its thing.

So to test my theory I unscrewed the Haldex filler plug and thought id add 70ml which would theoretically bring it back level with the filler hole so it ran out.

Guess what, it didn't..so I added another 60/70ml or so and only then did it overflow from the hole, SO my Haldex was underfilled by this amount..

Now im no expert but it could be that the 5min ignition on doesn't fully fill the top filter? Just the accumulator and valves beneath it? Another theory to corroborate this is that the workshop manual makes no mention of replacing the top filter, just to drain out and refill, so maybe you need to add more oil if the top filter is removed and the manual makes no allowance for this?

Just a thought and thought id share my experience. Incidentally no error codes flashed up at all during the test drive, and the car ran fine before as it does afterwards

MotionInc wrote:

My Gen 3 has the larger flange; I've changed the oil twice since ownership and the filter once. The filter that was in it was in very good condition and both times the oil was as well. I did not re & re the motor as I made a calculated decision based on the condition of the oil and the original (assumed) filter. It's a PITA to remove the flange just to get to the motor.

Hi again,

Today before I drove the car again, i used some brake cleaner to remove the oil residue from the day before so that I could check if there was a leak.

I'm very happy to tell that there were no error messages or leaks after a 50-km ride.

As you explained @jimbowats @Nodge68, it must be an airlock, probably in the main filter, that caused the error message i received yesterday. And your concerns regarding inappropriate amount of oil due to the main filter change, which is not included in the manual, is something we should really look into.

Thanks a lot for your considerations!

Might be wise to pre-soak the filter in fluid?

Just home from Bell Engineering - haldex serviced and diff oil changed. A pleasant day out with a delightful lunch in Bewdley - thanks to the loan of Austen’s manual FL2

The car has been little used but it has had a quite a few weeks of traction control fault lit up - a new battery and repeatedly clearing the fault with iCarsoft made no difference but having then booked it in for service and a new pump if necessary, it mysteriously cleared itself a few days ago after a quick blast in sports mode.

Glad it is now serviced though… restores a certain confidence in the car.

My landy has just put up the transmission fault/reduced traction. It comes back after restarting the car at different times so I am thinking that the pump may be working but filter gummed up a bit, I have the code p1889-14. So for now I want to just clean pump filter and renew main filter and refill with oil, before I go and buy a pump needlessly. So I know prop has to come off the Haldex and the Flange to, but how much of the prop shaft has to be undone?. Can I undo the 6 bolts at the flange and it just slides back or do I have to remove some of the brackets supporting the prop. Thanks. GS Sd4 2012