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CraigMate

Member Since: 26 Oct 2020
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 62

2007 Freelander 2 i6 HSE Lux Auto Indus Silver

Engine Flush

I know you all.must have an opinion on this....
Having just spent a small fortune on Gucci engine oil and a genuine filter etc, I was wondering if it was worth doing an engine flush first.
3.2 petrol with 100k miles.
I look forward to reading your thoughts

1st Apr 2021 4:56 pm

3landertwo

Member Since: 27 May 2020
Location: UK
Posts: 1135

Yes mate, use L'oreal flush, "because you engine is worth it"

No seriously, at that number of miles, you need to get all the old oil and crud out, and start a new.

1st Apr 2021 5:08 pm

CraigMate

Member Since: 26 Oct 2020
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 62

She is SO worth it!

1st Apr 2021 6:00 pm

Rommel

Member Since: 20 Aug 2017
Location: Sandhurst Berkshire
Posts: 716

2013 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Fuji White

YES YES YES I use Forte engine flush pour it in and let it tick over 30 mins then drain, I use it when I change oil in my TD4 and Defenders the oil stays clean for a lot longer, without it it goes black after just a few miles. 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Mahatma Gandhi said if there is an Idiot in power those who elected him are well represented. The Enemy is our own corrupt Government.

4th Apr 2021 7:37 am

CraigMate

Member Since: 26 Oct 2020
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 62

Many thanks

4th Apr 2021 7:50 am

p_gill

Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1278

2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

Craig,

When my LR2 was new the oil changes were free of charge (Land Rover was competing with Mercedes in the USA) and when I took my LR2 to the dealership for the "Free" oil change, I purchased my own oil and instructed them to use the oil that I supplied. (I can take a picture of the service order that shows "use customer supplied oil" or something similar.)

Note: it is easy to purchase very low quality oils here in "America".

Having said that I own two 3.2 one Volvo (purchased used) and one Land Rover (purchased new).

I suspect that the Volvo used an inexpensive oil and that this oil didn't properly protect the seals and the weakest link is the seal for the brake booster.

If your brake booster oil seal is leaking or if you replaced it or if it looks like this under it.

Then go ahead and flush away

Picture is of my 2010 S80 3.2

Alternatively if the timing chain cover under the brake booster looks like this then I wouldn't even think about flushing the Oil

Picture on my LR2 3.2 (its never been cleaned)

Click image to enlarge

Here is the list (search for --> 3.2 I6 Common items for high mileage Land Rovers and Volvos)

If your FREEL2 3.2 looks like my LR2 3.2 then I would focus on the list and oil flushing isn't on the list

AWD marked with AWD - FWD 3.2's can ignore AWD items

High Mileage Maintenance items for 3.2
1. Serpentine belt, tensioner, idler -
2. Brake fluid flushed (every 3 years)
3. Coolant replaced (failure is oil or ATF heat exchanger internal leaks)
4. AWD Rear differential oil change (every 50,000 miles) – I added a magnetic drain plug (LR2 and S80 V8 seem to be more susceptible to pinion bearing failure due to lack of maintenance)
5. ATF fluid flushed - search for Gibbons method (note: I used the modified Gibbons method)
6. Power steering fluid and reservoir replaced due to noisy heavy steering
7. Spark Plugs - replaced mine twice (every 50,000 miles, Volvo recommends 75,000 miles)
8. AWD BOT Gear oil for power Transfer unit (for mine I drilled a drain hole)
9. Battery – every 4 to 8 years (Low voltage while starting causes electrical gremlins on LR2)
10. O-Rings for Vacuum pump (only if it leaks)
11. AWD Haldex fluid and filter - I used genuine Volvo parts for this (it was cheaper than Land Rover)
12. AWD Replace CV joint grease in drive shaft joint near catalytic converter
13. Leak detection pump filter clean or replace every 5 years (note: not all markets have a leak detection pump) to prevent code P2402

Typical repairs for high mileage 3.2
A) Thermostat – replaced mine at 10 years (also replaced two coolant hoses)
B) Fuel pressure sending unit
C) PCV valve – replaced mine at 113,000 miles
D) Engine mounts
E) AC Compressor or clutch pack - (Installed a new compressor and clutch on the S80)
F) Ignition coils (Some evidence that a failed Thermostat leads to overheating and premature Coil failure)
G) Radiator Fan
H) Wheel Bearings
I) Anti-Drain back valve in oil canister housing failure
J) Radiator

Less common repairs
I. Starter motor - typically fails at 100,000 miles or 10 years
II. Blower Resistor
III. Front Brake calipers refurbished
IV. Loose bolt on alternator pulley
V. Overdrive clutch pulley Alternator
VI. Overdrive clutch pulley READ drive (Serpentine Belt)

Good luck

Paul

4th Apr 2021 9:03 pm

CraigMate

Member Since: 26 Oct 2020
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 62

Hi Paul.
I have a new rocker cover with pcv waiting to go on, 8 litres of Castrol Edge and a genuine filter.
I'll be doing the above next weekend. I just thought flushing the lubrication system might be a nice treat for her

I am gradually working through 'the list'

4th Apr 2021 9:11 pm

p_gill

Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1278

Craig,

Very nice.

I don't know if you've see this.

Here is what I've done for my Volvo over the past two years (since I bought it)

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/v...mp;t=87687

Enjoy the read if you have the time

Thanks

Paul

5th Apr 2021 1:45 am

CraigMate

Member Since: 26 Oct 2020
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 62

Just done a LIQUI-MOLY engine flush followed by new Castrol Edge and a new genuine LR filter. While I was underneath i discovered a broken exhaust hanger, the fun never ends

Don't know if the engine flush did anything more than thin the oil oil yet. I'm doing the rocker cover/pcv next weekend so I might get an idea then.
The oil that came out was black as pitch and had only been in there since the beginning of December so, maybe the flush was worth it

10th Apr 2021 4:14 pm

merlinj79

Member Since: 13 Aug 2019
Location: San Diego
Posts: 315

Not sure about diesels, but for gas motors if you run a synth oil that will clean out the guts over time. On several occasions I've gotten used cars which had previously run dino oil (including the LR2) and there were visible crud deposits under the valve cover. After running M1 for a few oil changes it will slowly dissolve all that stuff and it will end up shiny and new.

I prefer that to a flush, which might let loose any big chunks of crud all at once.

11th Apr 2021 2:33 am

p_gill

Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1278

Merlin,

Agreed

That is exactly the approach that I am taking with my S80 3.2

For my LR2 3.2, I bought it new and it has never seen Dyno juice.

Thanks

Paul

13th Apr 2021 11:09 pm

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