Gasman,

What you measured makes sense.

Note: the 3.3 volt is actually switched on and off rapidly (pulse width modulated)

If you disconnect the output wire for the control module you can run the fan using the two contacts and 12 volts.

I would only do this briefly to confirm that the fan spins.

Take Care

Paul

Thanks for the reply Paul

I have confirmed that each fan works by disconnecting them from the module and putting 12v direct to each fan plug. What has me stumped is the module itself. This is a new module and I am trying to confirm if it is faulty before contacting the supplier.
I did have a fault code in SDD that said faulty module originally. I changed it for this one with no difference. That is why I needed to test the trigger wire but if it is pulsed I have no tools to test it.
If I have 3.3v at the plug would that be enough to confirm a faulty module or would it have to be checked with an oscilloscope.? Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Gasman,

If you really want to know what signal the ECU is sending to the fan module you will need something that can measure the PWM signal, an oscilloscope would do it.

I didn’t think I have a meter in my home workshop that would make the measurement.

Based on the information that you have collected I would replace the module.

Good luck and let us know what you find out

Thanks

Paul

As I don't have the tools to check an ecu signal, decided to just do a continuity test on the wire. With the help of another members post, found that the signal wire goes to the ECM which is under the windscreen scuttle panel. Looking from the front of the car there are three multi plugs going to the ECM. The left hand plug has the violet wire from the fan module. If you lift out the plug and look at the underside, it is pin D4. Tested for continuity between this pin and the plug to the fan module and recorded some ridiculously resistance reading. Problem solved.
Cut the wire approx. 10cm away from the ECM plug and soldered on a similar size purple wire (couldn't get violet). Slipped the wire through the big rubber boot at the bulkhead, then followed the root of the harness back to the fan module ( I intend to work it into the loom later ). Cut the other end of the violet wire as close as possible the fan module plug and soldered the purple wire in place.
Tested again for continuity and this time less than one ohm.
Reconnected everything and fans now work.

Thanks again to everyone who gave me suggestions.
Pity I didn't think this through properly in the first place.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Gasman,

You learned the most important part of FREEL2 ownership

Perseverance


As a custodian for a FREEL2 you have a choice Perseverance or Foolishness.

Your FREEL2 won't suffer a fool.

You chose wisely.


Once they suck you in they will never let you go.

Take care

Paul

Nice one Paul

I just have to fix the other faults before lockdown is finished.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

gasman wrote:

As I don't have the tools to check an ecu signal, decided to just do a continuity test on the wire. With the help of another members post, found that the signal wire goes to the ECM which is under the windscreen scuttle panel. Looking from the front of the car there are three multi plugs going to the ECM. The left hand plug has the violet wire from the fan module. If you lift out the plug and look at the underside, it is pin D4. Tested for continuity between this pin and the plug to the fan module and recorded some ridiculously resistance reading. Problem solved.
Cut the wire approx. 10cm away from the ECM plug and soldered on a similar size purple wire (couldn't get violet). Slipped the wire through the big rubber boot at the bulkhead, then followed the root of the harness back to the fan module ( I intend to work it into the loom later ). Cut the other end of the violet wire as close as possible the fan module plug and soldered the purple wire in place.
Tested again for continuity and this time less than one ohm.
Reconnected everything and fans now work.

Thanks again to everyone who gave me suggestions.
Pity I didn't think this through properly in the first place.

Hi Dave

I am glad that this is one issue of the list, unfortunately I can't take the credit.
As I said earlier I found a post that another member had been working on a similar issue. He actually stripped back the wiring harness in the engine bay and followed the trigger wire from the fan module to the unit under the windscreen scuttle. That is how I knew which pin to test from.
Wished I could remember who it was as he saved me a lot of effort.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Hello everyone,

I need to wake this post as I have a cooling system problem I cannot come over.

The problem is, some time ago I realised that the fans did not work and the AC wouldn't cool off. When I got in touch with my garage, which is unfortunately 220km away , they said the fan control module had failed. Then, I ordered online an aftermarket unit made in China, but this new unit lasted onlya week.

This time I was sure to buy a genuine fan control module, but I couldn't find any as they explained the original fan control unit comes on the fan frame as a whole and it is not sold separately.

When I went into further research, I found out that some Ford, Volvo and Jaguar units are the same.
Finally I ordered ONE used genuine and ONE aftermarket Volvo fan control unit to make sure I have a spare one if one fails.

Guess what, the volvo aftermarket unit failed in a week too. However, today when I plugged in the used genuine volvo control unit as my last chance option, surprisingly the fans stay on permanently. With the help of a voltmeter, I checked the unit, and to my surprise the positive connections are always on. Does this mean that the used unit is also faulty?

I also made a continuity test with the violet signal cable, there is no problem with it (left socket, D4).

Should I keep looking for a genuine fan control unit, or concentrate on somewhereelse?
For example, would it be the coolant temperature sensor? How do I make sure it reads correct temperatures?

Hi Sertac

Sorry to hear of your issues.
I really can't remember without seeing a wiring diagram but I think the positive is permanent live and the fan motors have a switched ground. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Slightly off-topic, I had trouble with a Jaguar twin fan unit a few years ago. When I dismantled the unit, I found the internal resistors corroded and drawing excessive current. I believe they draw forty amps at full speed, so if your control units are failing, then I suggest another way to cool the system is to look at Demon Tweeks racing fans and splice in a manually switched system controlled by a thermostat strapped to the top hose. I know the thermostats on the FL2 are three units wired in parallel. One in the fuel tank, one on the fuel pump housing and one at the back of the the engine. One needs dealer level software to determine which one if faulty, or change them all. Its also possible for a faulty instrument panel circuit board to give a false picture or problems as well. Best of luck in finding the real problem!

Sertac wrote:

The problem is, some time ago I realised that the fans did not work and the AC wouldn't cool off. When I got in touch with my garage, which is unfortunately 220km away , they said the fan control module had failed. Then, I ordered online an aftermarket unit made in China, but this new unit lasted onlya week.

This time I was sure to buy a genuine fan control module, but I couldn't find any as they explained the original fan control unit comes on the fan frame as a whole and it is not sold separately.