Hi, my SD4 has 19” wheels and the fronts need replacing. I’ve read lots about changing all 4 at the same time to safeguard the diff etc but my rears are at 5mm . Would it be safe to have new on the front with the existing rears or is the difference too great. My other alternative is to put part worn tyres on the front so they’re all at 5mm. Thanks.

Permanent four wheel drive systems should have the same tread on all four wheels, F2 is part time so there's no reason you can't have different treads front and rear.
If im wrong somebody will be along if a mow to correct me  Common sense isn't very common.
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2007 Land Rover Freelander2 I6 hse Auto

2 new tyres are ok. Put them on the front. If you are still worried stick another 2 psi in the rear which will increase rolling diameter a whisker. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

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I am about to put some new boots on my FL2 however the fronts seem to have 4.5mm and the rears about 2.2mm so definitely need replacing. They are Wranglers and all went on at the same time 30k miles ago. So that's a bit odd, now just trying to convince myself that I only need to replace the rear two given my low mileage these days 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
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I change all 4 as a rule despite the ability of the part time 4x4. I also change them front to back approximately every 5k miles in order to even the wear. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
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axle wrote:

Permanent four wheel drive systems should have the same tread on all four wheels, F2 is part time so there's no reason you can't have different treads front and rear.
If im wrong somebody will be along if a mow to correct me

The Haldex kicks in every time the vehicle pulls away, or when throttle is applied to accelerate.
Because of this, it's pretty important that the tyre's have a similar rolling radius all round.

I discovered this issue when my old diff was making lots of noise. The noise it made was lots louder and harsher when pulling away, and when accelerating with more than about 50% throttle.
Given that the Haldex can transfer considerable torque front to back, or back to front, then for the sake of a couple of tyres, it's best to simply change them all, and rotate them to keep the driveline loads to a minimum. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
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Boxbrownie wrote:

axle wrote:

Permanent four wheel drive systems should have the same tread on all four wheels, F2 is part time so there's no reason you can't have different treads front and rear.
If im wrong somebody will be along if a mow to correct me

Pretty sure that correct, my understanding of the FL2 system was it is in RWD for just about all the time until it needs 4WD, I guess if you use full power at every junction and roundabout then 4WD will kick in more often.

Sorry yes, brain fade caused by a lack of alcohol during the midday period of abstinence  Regards

David

Lovely i6 has now gone, but not me......

Please let me know if anything in my post offends you, as I may wish to offend you again......

Inoticed quite early on in my FL2 ownership that, unlike any other car that I had owned, the rear brakes (and tyres) wore quicker than the fronts.

I posted if this was the cause -

I agree about tyre wear. I have also noticed that my FL2 was unusual in that it seemed to wear the rear brakes slightly quicker than the front.
All other cars wore the front pads out quicker than the rears, and all my FWD cars wore the front tyres twice as quick as the rears.
I do wonder if the rear brakes are being automatically put on by the various stabilisation electronics on the FL2 --- during any (ab)normal driving by me..

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Nodge68 wrote:

The Haldex kicks in every time the vehicle pulls away

Quote:

........The result is used exclusively on Freelander 2, and pre-emptively engages four-wheel drive quickly and completely. An improved high-pressure pre-charge pump charges the hydraulic system as soon as the engine is started, allowing for full-time 4x4 from rest. It also reduces the time taken to achieve full torque once wheel-slip has been detected – within 15 degrees of wheel-slip rotation (compared with 50 degrees of wheel-slip rotation with the previous generation Haldex).........

Getting back to the original question.

If the AWD system is going to engage all the time (which it will) then you should use 4 tires that are the same age.

If you can't do this then disabling the Haldex would work as well.

It may be possible to disable the Haldex by removing the fuse

Thanks

Paul

I'm perplexed by these sort of discussions. The rolling diameter of tyres that are very similar in static diameter isn't going to have much of an effect. Every tyre on a car rotates at a different speed and covers a different distance when cornering - the diffs easily compensate for that. Going in a straight line isn't going to load up the diffs so much they are overwhelmed. It's when diffs get locked that there is a problem. But ours are always open, TC uses the brakes to generate drive.

Am I missing something? MY11 SD4 SE Auto

In normal use, the Haldex engages as you pull away, but disengages as speed is increased and no wheel slip is sensed and the car will normally run in FWD. It will re-engage if wheel slip is sensed. The special modes change this behaviour but their use is not recommended on roads with good grip and would lead to damage to the driveline. The difference in circumference due to normal tyre wear should not trigger continuous AWD.
So while driving in Sand mode gives great get away from a standstill due to the enhanced throttle response and 4WD, as usual you’ll pay for the fun later!