MAP sensor... yeah, that could be worth a try. Already done MAF. Would be nice if fix is as simple as bolting on a new sensor, but gut says no. I'll add it to list.

Does seem as if there are (at least) 2 problems encountered by various people at this rev range, one lack of power that's temperature related, and the other being harsh juddering with lack of power being secondary.

The issue I had involved no juddering at all. Simply a temporary loss of power - almost like the fuel being cut off - and it was definitely linked with warmer temperatures. Thankfully gone once those sensors were sorted. 2012 (62) FL2 TD4 XS

Update if helps anyone along the way -

Turbo actuator arm checked and lubed - improvement in accelleration, would say turbo is coming on sooner with throttle, but judder still there.

Interestingly enough we did finally get Restricted Performance and limp mode home this weekend. Code is Turbo Overboost. Veins moving fine. Can clear code and drive normally with turbo working with no problem, only occurs again when i give her a thrashing... so MAP sensor ordered. Let's see how this goes, might not even be related to the judder issue... and yet further down the rabbit hole.

Update... MAP sensor done, still getting judder. (and overboost error & limp mode when i give her some welly). Funds and time will be spent focus on damn water pump and cambelt, so Judder Hunt 2020 is on hold for me right now.

I've read lots of your comments about this issue (or is it a few issues?) and I appreciate everything that's been said.

I replaced my turbo just over 1 year ago for a used one that came from a crashed SD4 that did 44000 miles. The power loss that I previously had, disappeared (the weather was hot, by the way), but only a few weeks later, the power loss that used to occur at 1800-2000rpm started to reappear. I remember one of the first re-occurrances when I drove from Birmingham to Surrey - it was fine to start with, but by the time I got beyond M25, it started playing up. The problem would occur about once a week after that day, then gradually increasing to every bloody time again after a few weeks.

The video from MRT performance on Youtube 'Optimizing EGR Operation using EcuTek ECU tuning software' made me think that this problem could be EGR-related. But the above experience with my replacement turbo makes me doubt the cause is completely EGR-related.

The MRT video shows that there are several maps for EGR and most of them look to be temperature-related. My problem is also temperature-related i.e. it hardly ever happens in the winter and it always happens when the outside temperature is above about 15C.
The proof I have about EGR is from my Foxwell OBDII reader - I retrieve live data of EGR% (as well as other things like LOAD% and RPM). The power loss coincides with the EGR% going from about 0% to 60% (the maximum for EGR, not 100% exhaust gas going into cylinders) then back to 0% all within about 2 seconds.

Recently, I did a diagnostic run when the temp was about 11C - the EGR% looks ok apart from a couple of 60% spikes. All of this data tells me that the EGR functions correctly for most of the time, but possibly one of the higher-temperature maps is commanding 60% (it shouldn't be max-EGR% when you're accelerating).

My proposed solution was for a tuner to look at the EGR maps and tell me if any of the EGR maps actually set it to 60% and then alter the maps to have more sensible values (not 60%).

My difficulty is that I haven't been able to get a tuner to do this for me - they only offer to delete the EGR. I would've thought that any of the tuners have been working on diesel tuning for many years, they would easily be able to remap the EGR values? There's been plenty of vehicles that have this problem (including Evoque SD4s).

If anyone who has this problem and have got an OBD reader that records EGR% - if they get similar values to me, then it might demonstrate that the EGR map could be a part of the problem.

If it is a turbo-sticking problem, then how is it temperature-related i.e. only in warm weather? I don't want to buy a new turbo yet.

Please see the graph below to demonstrate that the EGR valve seems to work (note the 20% EGR is when it's off-throttle) except for the 60% spike.

Click image to enlarge

I have two Freelanders (2009 & 2010), both with the momentary loss of power in this rev range. This week, on. the recently delivered 2009 model, I found the inevitable split in the intercooler feed to the throttle body. I replaced the hose with a silicone rubber replacement and heavy duty clips and cleaned up the latter where the map sensor was completed blocked with hard carbon deposits. I am quite taken aback with the increase in power and the engine management light has not re-lit. The subtle hair dryer noise on heavy acceleration has also gone.