Good afternoon
Newbie here so please be gentle. I have a bad diesel leak which appears to be dripping down the back of the engine near the turbo and near the gearbox. We have smelt fumes for a bit, and it seems the leak offs are the issue on two injectors. Due to non starting, I have just replaced the glow plugs, all four were dead, and fitted the later manifold ( no swirl flaps), just in time it seems as 3 flaps and a piece of rod fell out when I removed it, not sure where the last one ended up. All rebuilt and car starts on the button. Question I have is , the leak fills up round the injectors, can it then drip over the top of the cam cover and down the back or have a something else up. Everything looks dry round the filter, the pump etc. I have ordered new spill pipes from advanced factors on here, do I need to order the o rings as well or do they come with the pipe kit? I also thought I would check the throttle body and found the gears had teeth missing, so new one ordered, plus egr blank as the,old one was full of oily crud. Hopefully will make it run a bit sweeter and improve the mpg. Any advice gratefully received. Thanks

Car is a 2007 poverty spec ‘s’ with 108k on the clock and lots of issues to deal with.

The o-rings are the ones that get old and need replacing.
You shouldn't have bought the whole spill off pipe set, just the o-rings.
Now, if I were you, I would buy some o-rings for peace of mind.

Thanks, I have ordered some anyway, but the locking clips on the spill pipes, a couple had lugs broken off. Hopefully that will sort it

Just to update on this, the nightmare continues. After ordering a set of o rings they duly arrived. ( Britpart.) Now I have heard bad things before about this stuff, and my first experience was as bad as many on here. Having cut off the old rings, the new ones slipped into place with ease. The new pipe set I’d purchased did not want to fit over these rings . Assuming new rings should be a tight fit, I persevered and somehow managed to get them. The car out diesel when I started it, so pipes removed, ordered a set of genuine o rings which arrived and compared to the Brit part version were quite different, good ole britpart I thought, new rings fitted, pipes clipped on easily. All good I thought, but no, the two original leakers were dry and the two dry ones were leaking, on inspection, it seems I’d damaged the new pipes trying to fit them over the supersize britpart version. So new pipes and o rings ordered again, this time from John Craddock. However, I couldn’t be sure if they would be genuine items so I phoned up, but phone lines not available, tried email to confirm ordered parts to be genuine, no response, items in stock so dispatched same day? No dispatch email, looking on line reviews seem to indicate that this is the norm and people wait weeks for parts, struggle to cancel orders, get refunds etc. Car is still off the road so a bit stuck here, anyone had a recent good experience with these people or have a cheaper suggestion to get this heap back on the road.

Never buy Britpart rubbish !! If you use Rimmers or Brit Car you can choose whether you want genuine or OEM parts so you know what you are getting and paying for.

Just my two pennyworth !

John Craddock have a very poor reputation amongst Series 1 owners, worse now than Britpart's reputation - who do appear to be a heck of a lot better than they used to be to be fair to Britpart but sadly JC seems to have taken the alternative path, seemingly selling parts they do not actually have or can supply . 2014 Freelander 2 TD4 Manual Dynamic
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover - undergoing restoration

Well it’s finally sorted, the parts ordered turned up and they were all britpart and have been sent straight back. I ordered a genuine spill pipe set and it fitted easily with no leaks so a happy chap, though 2 weeks off the road, waiting for parts. New throttle body has made shut down super smooth, egr blank has made it more nippy so all good. Only thing I can’t sort, is it randomly when coming to junctions / lights almost feel like it’s going to stall before picking up again. I was hoping the egr blank might have sorted that out. Anyhow onto the next job.

mine does that Near stalls when pulling up - a good clear out seemed to ease it now and then until the clear out stooped it dead. low and high pressure pump 3 injectors and a (2nd hand ) throttle body later it still does it. let me know if you find anything.
i have scanned it with foxwell and JLR SDD nothing to show. i think it does run batter after calibrating the throttle body and a few other bits.
If i was going to keep her another yar i would get a carbon clean done.

good luck Stewart
2007 Freelander 2 SE TD4
2007 A6 quattro 3.0 TDI Manual
1986 coupe quattro (kv) square wheels.
1972 mini 1400 100BHP A series

I've just had a high pressure fuel pump problem diagnosed - how much was yours? I'm quaking in my boots to hear a quote come in MY11 SD4 SE Auto

Was way too much from main dealer - the garage got it from Euro car parts for about £150 from memory, i wasn't that happy as the term " buy cheap buy twice " normally goes with that crowd - 1 year in ( OK so lock down no where near as many miles) all good so far.
i did get one from a breakers initially but that didn't make it out of the garage partly i think as the garage faffed about that much with injectors they wore it out / run it dry... Stewart
2007 Freelander 2 SE TD4
2007 A6 quattro 3.0 TDI Manual
1986 coupe quattro (kv) square wheels.
1972 mini 1400 100BHP A series