Hi Guys (ITS A LONG READ )

I am after some words of advice, our car is a 2010 HSE 2.2 TD4 Auto (pre facelift) I have been having issues with:

P02E9 Diesel Intake Air Flow Position Sensor Circuit High

P0299 Turbocharger/Supercharger A Underboost Condition

A little insight, I removed the swirl flaps and replaced the plugs and blanked the EGR everything was fine for a couple weeks and then all of a sudden when putting the engine under load when accelerating just before the car is about to shift to the next gear there is a drop/lag in power then the car shifts and stutters as it picks power back up again.

I unplugged the MAF the issue went away thought great it’s the MAF brought a new one same problem, ran the OBD II noticed the intake air temp sensor on the throttle body always said 0 Celsius changed this (after cleaning didn’t work) still no improvement although I now get temp readings.

Took the throttle body out surprise surprise typical ground out teeth (I did have a rough idle when starting one morning intake flap stuck closed) brought a gear repair kit metal gears car starts up and stops like a dream no shudder but still no joy same problem with the under boost going through the gears.

Today removed the blanking plate on the EGR no improvement, tried unplugging the MAF again back to normal and no boost problems through the gears lovely.

Now I have noticed the OBD II states the absolute manifold pressure as 99-100kpa but it does not fluctuate up and down as the power increases and decreases. I am coming to the conclusion that it may be the MAP sensor on the throttle body that it the issue, I have ordered a Denso one for £25 to see but really I just want to understand?

Can unplugging the MAF sensor affect the MAP sensor? It seems odd that unplugging the MAF sensor with a “possibly?” faulty MAP sensor would still allow the car to run smoothly? Surely if the MAP sensor is faulty regardless as to whether you unplug the MAF or not the stutter and underboost would still be their?

I will post any more updates I just wanted my story on the forum and any of your help or advice to help any further members out there who have a similar issue? I am just glad it appears its not a dodgy turbo but a sensor issue but I just want understand why? Any insight?

Hello,Approximately two years ago Yes I have experienced all of your issues and eventually the throttle body gears gave up, so I replaced the throttle body, all seemed fine for approximately a month or so 400 miles. Then along came this throttle lag, so replaced the map sensor as a Collegue had similar fault, so I replaced the map sensor with temp and maf sensor, Everything again seems okay. Then back it came
So I replaced the fuel and air filters bought from main dealer, everything fine, Nope back it came, but this time intermittent not every trip out.
So I had a word at the main dealer on the carpark with a technician he asked have you replaced the throttle pedal? No I said.

Went in and ordered the pedal it took a day or so to arrive, went it came into stock I actually fitted the pedal at the dealer on the carpark. As if not fixed would have paid for dealer stealer diagnostics check. Two years on no throttle lag. But other events have come to haunt me as my previous notes on this forum.

What I can say is that I fitted a new Varta F19 battery and most of my niggles have gone- Very poor cold starting No frost yet.
My fl2 is as it was 5 years ago and the heated front screen works on cold starts without pressing the button.

I would try a throttle pedal. That’s if no one says differently...!

Sorry, Forgot I have a fl2 2009 HSE auto TD4, had from new now done 138k, cambelt done at 112k four years ago best car I have ever owned pity though not worth a lot now soon be a classic.

davyboy thanks information is a wonderful thing agree our freelander is one of the best cars I have ever owned, got the new MAP on the way will give that a whirl first and see how I get one but great shout about the pedal will bare that in mind if I still have gremlins.

Interestingly I also brought a new battery after the car kept flagging up HDC faults on cold mornings new battery and good as new, sensitive cars these days!

Hello, well I forgot to mention in my list of jobs done to correct the fault I have replaced the egr valve.

So yesterday I put the old accelerator pedal back on and after a few runs and also tonight the fault is back, same as you described. So back on with the “new one” pedal that is and the fault isn’t there, all I did was start the engine let it idle, go to half throttle then a blast at full, let it idle and turn off ignition. Then a restart and a run 10 miles or so, No hiccups.

As these faults numerous to mention I did make a comment to gasman to check for cabling damage just under the air filter box beside the inner wing, this was on YouTube. My cables were slightly damaged, I did mention to gasman that also recently I assisted a fellow lr2 driver waiting for the AA to arrive as he’d broken down, his cabling was cut through and we re connected the cabling and eventually the car started, maybe another check?

comfirmed today its not the MAP

Rather than throw more money at it I will be booking into our local specialist landy mechanic I think it could be the actuator or turbo at this point.

Will update in a few weeks time when we find out

Just an update and question if anyone is reading this I think I may have caused my own problems when removing the intake manifold when I replaced the glow plugs/removed the swirl flaps, I sprayed some solution around one of the intake port seals on the intake manifold and with regret I watched the solution get sucked in around the port, I can see some of the orange rubber seal distorted out of place.

Does anyone have any experience of the intake manifold pressure readings? I get 14.7psi when the ignition is live which is the barometric pressure at ground level which is great however when I start the ignition and leave the car idle the pressure does not fall!?

My understanding is when the engine is running/idling the MAP sensor should read a slight vacuum on the standard barometric pressure anything from 10psi - 12psi but it never budges from 14.7 if anything it fluxes up to 14.85 from 14.7. When you press the throttle naturally the psi of the intake increases as the turbo pushes more air into the engine.

Only when you shut down the engine does it pull a slight vacuum as the engine sucks the last of the air out the intake/turbo then returns back to barometric pressure at 14.7 psi.

Does anyone have a OBDII scanner to hand and can confirm what their intake manifold pressure reads when the engine is started and simply idling? I am reluctantly hoping someone out their can confirm my suspicions

It's a diesel engine and there is no throttle/obstruction along the intake track. Count out here the electronic throttle used to stop the engine.
So, the intake pressure is about atmospheric pressure on idle and positive as the RPM increases because of the turbo involvement.
For a non turbo, yes, the intake pressure could be very little below the atmospheric pressure because of the cylinder suction.
Confirmation: yes, your readings are about right.
As per your other question that you'll be asking, from MAP to intake manifold rubber seal there is quite a path and that path is narrowing a little with some bending to facilitate an increase in the air speed and turbulence. This could lead, according to Bernoulli principle, to a slight lower pressure in the vicinity of the rubber seal and for that your sprayed solution was sucked in.

Thanks Alex, hopefully popping upto a local indy LR garage to have the codes read by a more indepth scanner

teagzgr wrote:

Just an update and question if anyone is reading this I think I may have caused my own problems when removing the intake manifold when I replaced the glow plugs/removed the swirl flaps, I sprayed some solution around one of the intake port seals on the intake manifold and with regret I watched the solution get sucked in around the port, I can see some of the orange rubber seal distorted out of place.

Doe
Does anyone have a OBDII scanner to hand and can confirm what their intake manifold pressure reads when the engine is started and simply idling? I am reluctantly hoping someone out their can confirm my suspicions

Did you fit new manifold O rings?

I have SDD, Delpli, Icarsoft I930 and and IID, although with Coronavirus about, it makes safe diagnostics difficult.  Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Hi Nodge cheers for the reply, yeah fitted new seals but trying to put the intake back on a few months ago was a struggle for me, I think I may have tightened the bolts up too quickly on the intake as I did notice yesterday that I could see some of the new orange seals I put on slightly distorted out of the engine block, sprayed a bit of carb cleaner around it and sure enough the revs picked up ever so slightly just enough to notice anyway so it must be leaking a little.

Spoke to a guy called Josh up summercourt he used to be a tech at JLR i beleive, he now has his own indy LR garage hes going to take a look for me before I waste another 4 hours strripping the car back down to redo the intake.

Strangly it doesnt happen when booting the car through high revs down the A30 and back up again and the intake hits 255kpa or 36psi its only between 2-3k revs you hit a loss of power I am leaning towards turbo at this point or actuator.

I have got a new set of seals to redo the intake at some point when it warms up a little

Well seems I have fixed my underboost issue it was a case of being in denial about my ham fisted attempt of refitting the intake manifold after I removed the swirl flaps.

After I removed my intake guess which one is the old one?

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Thanks to davyboy… Went to local Landie shop got the 2nd hand 2014 pedal, gambling to fit in as non return item… Easy fit only 3 nuts… plugged in on off you go driving for a week and no P0299 came up…Thanks mate… Out of curiosity open the old pedal and found out it is a non contact potentiometer (attached photos) Be cautious to older models FL2 like mine 2008 up to 2010 will surely get to this point… Believe n hope the newer model 2010 onward should have a better or robust contactor… My pedal has 2014’s stamp date
Just a Note ….
This replacement is only remove the P0299 engine light issue, my next one is dealing with excessive hissing noise on turbo still on and would not to think about replacing the turbo
Comment:
- Had replaced Intake Throttle body - yep found broken plastic gear teeth - thanks for all discussion about this.
- Checked all turbo hoses and replaced the small silicone hose just before the intake
- Replaced intercooler- interesting job as pulled out front bumper etc…
- Cleaned up all related sensors on intake
- 100% blocked egr valve on intake…
Again still have hissing noise on turbo… Missus run out patient and want to trade in 😞😞😞 So sad but I will be back…

Takes 2 to upload photoes… 🤗🤗🤗

Hi guys just an update on accelator pedal replacement vs P0299 apparently after 3 weeks driving it comes up again … Very discouraging… Maybe trade in is a not a bad idea at all… Bye bye Freelander 2…