Car has been nothing but trouble since lockdown. Think it has something to do with not going any real distance
List of problems.
Car now starts very badly, can take 15-20 seconds of cranking when cold to start.
Stop Start function has stopped completely.
Biggest issue is car going into limp mode almost constantly with the code Turbo Boost Position Sensor Circuit A Range/Performance.
Scanned for codes....

P02E8-00 Diesel intake airflow position sensor - circuit low
P0100-00 Mass or volume air circuit
P0103-27 Mass or volume air circuit high input
P0103-22 Mass or volume air circuit high input
P2563-73 Turbo boost control position sensor circuit A range/performance

P164C-00 Internal control module start-stop performance

This is what I have done so far.

Cleaned the variable geometry vanes (in situ) as it was sticking. Now moves effortlessly with actuator arm.
Removed and cleaned the throttle body.
Replaced MAF Sensor
Replaced MAP Sensor
Replaced Crank Position Sensor
Swapped the the turbo actuator motor with the one from my other turbo.

Battery is fully charged and only a couple of years old.

Took car out to Doncaster yesterday, 110 mile there. Car went into limp mode FIVE time. Had to keep stopping and clearing the fault with an OBD pug in. On the way back, drove most of the way with only the occasional hesitation on acceleration. Almost home, reached the roadworks on the A19 (new flyover at Testoes roundabout) 40mph for approx. 2 mile, car went into limp mode again.

Went to Doncaster to purchase another car as a run a bout as this one is so unreliable.

I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction before I turn this into scrap.


Just remembered did a diagnostic test with SDD of the air intake etc. this is what it showed.


 Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Hello gasman, sorry to hear of your turmoil as sometimes it feels soul draining, not sure who it was but recently a forum member posted something they had seen on YouTube where there is a wiring loom slowly cutting through on the support frame of the air intake filter lower box. Just behind the headlight unit.

This time last year I had so many niggles with mine, poor cold starting, rough idle, sometimes failure to start, last time I thought that was it, it seems worse when wet, either the rain on a run, or being jet washed around the nearside front wing, and then I found the cabling cut through and shorting just the other week from advice regarding that cabling issue.

Mine now starts, no limp mode, smooth idle.

With having a company car the freelander only is used as last resort but now.

Have a look, it may be your cause?

Hi Davyboy
That sounds like a bit of a head banger of a problem.
You never know with these cars anything could be possible. Ill have a look tomorrow see what I can find.
Thanks for the tip.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

I'd check the earth from the battery - a known problem area.
If there's a high resistance then the voltage will not be maintained during starting - can cause all sorts of electrical faults.
Damp & corrosion is all that is needed.

Quite few of us have added a second earth in response to earthing issues. Jules

I'd have a read of my ongoing saga as well mate:

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic35677.html

Check intercooler radiator an hose for any oil leaks is one of the causes for intermitent limp mode and high speed hesitantions.

Hi Jules
Battery negatives are ok. I have the second earth as is suggested on the forum, plus an additional one connected to the starter mounting bolt. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Hi Rusty_Wingnut
Sounds like you are having one hell of a time as well.
Also very little in the way of replies.
As yet I haven't looked at any of the wiring

Is the boost control sensor the MAP sensor, getting a bit confused. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Hi brom
Thanks for the reply.
Not long since I changed the intercooler hoses to silicone ones. Had the intercooler out at the same time, all was well then.
Suppose it wouldn't do any harm to check again but that will have to wait until better weather. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Let's face it mate, the average Freelander/Disco or Range Rover owner isn't going to get dirty and investigate! I'm just lucky I got a mate who works for a main dealer.

I think the standard approach is to change all sensors, then throttle body. After that it starts to get messy!


On another note the chaffed wiring - I found my car was armoured all along the length and no chaffing could occur. I wondered if some cars were poorly armoured?

When starting there is no turbo implications (no exhaust means no boost), so the car should start without problems, even if you have a problematic turbo and/or a leaking intake system.
The fact that you cant start it normally leads to think that it is either:
1. an air intake problem - check the electric throttle, no need to check the hoses and the turbo because, remember, the engine starts without boost/turbo
2. a fueling problem - check that you have fuel on the rail and you don't need to bleed again the system
3. an engine control problem - check crankshaft and camshaft sensors, check the fuel rail pressure sensor, check the fuel rail and high pressure pump return valves.

Thanks for jumping in Alex

Going through your list.
1/ Check the throttle body. I assume we are looking for damaged cogs in the motor assembly. I haven't taken that apart yet as
I don't have any unusual noises from it but I will check.

2/ Fuel Rail.......What's the best way to check that. As its very high pressure I have always left that one. Have never gone any
further than changing the fuel filter.

3/ Have already changed the crank sensor. Never thought about the camshaft sensor. Don't know how to test it but I could
always order a replacement and change it anyway, after all the car is eleven and a half years old and that will be the original

That gives me something to work on thanks.
I'll post back with the results.




Thanks also Rusty_Wingnut for the encouragement.
I have checked the wiring visually and can't see any issues. To be honest it looks in showroom condition. I like to keep the engine bay clean so its easier to spot trouble.
Or so I thought.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

1. Yes, a diesel engine without (enough) air will hardly start. Easier way - make sure the flap is open and then you can remove the motor electrical connector. It will throw an error, but it should start.

2. You need a multimeter or SDD to monitor the parameters like fuel rail pressure. No fuel or air in circuit will translate in low pressure.

3. Crank is crucial for starting and running. Cam is crucial only for starting. Then it's ignored.

Focus at this point only on proper starting. No matter how it will behave during running, you must have a proper starting for starters...
Then, when you will have that solved, focus on what's happening on the road, eventually log/graph some key parameters like throttle request vs. rpm vs. intake pressure and you will get some ideas.

That's a big help Alex.

Gives me something to look for. Will probably take me a couple of days to check this lot out.
Don't mind admitting I'm slow but I will post back my progress.

Again many thanks.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Haven't updated this post yet as I am still waiting for the new camshaft position sensor to arrive. Due to the Christmas post backlog I'll just have to wait and see.
Wanted to do all the issues in the order that Alex suggested, starting with the camshaft position sensor.
I'll post results when I have some.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.