Hi, I wanted to change the oil in the rear diff. Previously it was done by a mechanic. I used a ratchet with a 13mm socket, and it was very tight. As I was pulling hard, the bolt did not move, but the socket jumped one step. Do you have any tips on how to remove a stuck filler plug? I feel that I can't use the same 13mm socket as it might jump again and damage the bolt even further.

Try a bit of penetrating lube or a little bit of concentrated heat? Just be careful with the heat and penetrating lube together........

Make sure you are going counter clockwise too........

Is it a good quality socket and ratchet you are using?
Consider using some heat, blow lamp or similar?
If there is space, vice grips on plug and whack with a hammer? Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Hi,

as above ^

Penetrating fluid, hammer tap on head, quality single Hex socket, breaker bar to allow a Smooth pull of force and socket square on to head.

Its why you should allways remove the fill plug Before the drain plug (if it had one )

 .
my first ever FL2 and I did keep it longer than most other cars!
But its now gone way up Norf

Recently got these for a completely rounded over-torqued bolt some lovely person had left for me. Wouldn't work on everything, but nice to have in the tool box. Come in 2 sized sets. Hit them on well with a hammer and they bite into the bolt with the fluted cutting teeth. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Irwin-Bolt-Grip-R...B0000CCXVZ

Just seen you're in Aus. Bunnings was only place i could get them in NZ.

A standard 3/8s ratchet can be quite small, get a 1/2 inch adapter and use a bar, something with longer leverage without a ratchet mechanism that could go wrong. Is it definitely a 13mm? I haven't checked as i'm a new owner, make sure a 12mm doesn't fit on first. You'll know if it's a dodgy 13mm socket if you can see rounded edges on the bolt. Don't go for budget sockets, a decent bit of a torque through them and their kerpoot!

Step 1 is to get a 6 point impact 13 MM socket




Assuming that you have already tried step 1 then move to Step 2

Step 2 is a 1/2" impact socket

This socket is slightly too small and it may require a hammer to seat on the bolt






If these wont work then you may need to drill out the fill bolt.

Let me know if you need guidance on step 3

For Reference the fill bolt that I removed from my LR2 measures 0.505"

My 13 mm impact socket measures 0.520"

The 1/2" socket should be large enough to accommodate the 13 mm Hex head

Good luck

Paul

Grue wrote:

Recently got these for a completely rounded over-torqued bolt some lovely person had left for me. Wouldn't work on everything, but nice to have in the tool box. Come in 2 sized sets. Hit them on well with a hammer and they bite into the bolt with the fluted cutting teeth. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Irwin-Bolt-Grip-R...B0000CCXVZ

Just seen you're in Aus. Bunnings was only place i could get them in NZ.

Thanks all for the great suggestions. The socket I used was not the best quality, so I will buy a new one tomorrow and will give it a go. I will report back with the result.

Now I am wondering, is there a specific torque I should tighten it to? Or is the plug so tight because of how the diff warms up and down over time?

Hi.
no doubt there is a Torque figure but ISTR there is a copper washer so "Nipped up" with a new washer

think its the same as the manual gearbox plug (anyone know different please correct) so...

I also bought 2xcopper washers for £2.25
these are 24mmO/D 18mmI/D and 2mm thick crush washers
(istr 24mm x 18mm x 1.3mm flat washers mentioned in another thread)


or anneal the old washer ?

 .
my first ever FL2 and I did keep it longer than most other cars!
But its now gone way up Norf

kris-p wrote:

Thanks all for the great suggestions. The socket I used was not the best quality, so I will buy a new one tomorrow and will give it a go. I will report back with the result.

Now I am wondering, is there a specific torque I should tighten it to? Or is the plug so tight because of how the diff warms up and down over time?

If you want to know the specification from the manual

26 ft * lbs. or if you prefer metric units 35 N * Meters

I don't tighten mine that tight.

I use the same torque that I use for a sparkplug

18 ft * lbs. or if you prefer metric units 25 N * Meters


I agree with Motion 18 Ft * Lbs. is a good target


Let us know if you are successful in removing the plug first.

Thanks

Paul

Yay, success! I used a bit of WD40, left it for a day, then got a proper good quality socket, which did the job. But man, it was tight!

However, when I removed the plug, to my surprise I found out there was too much oil, as it started leaking out. I drained about 50ml of the old oil. Actually, I have a bit of leak through the seal on the left hand side of the diff, so maybe that was the reason.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions!

Now I will just do the proper oil change.

That is why you should undertake jobs that you can do yourself then you know they have been done & done correctly.

If you have a "seep" where the haldex mates to the rear diff, there are four bolts that hold them together with a seal in between, LR02888. I can't remember if you will have easy access to all of the bolts in situ without removing the retaining "cradle", but if you do, you can try to snug them up. If that's where the "seep" is, it's likely haldex fluid. Get the service manual for your model year downloaded from this site and search for the torque values.

EDIT: Ignore this post, I thought the seep was at the front of the diff not the side.

Last edited by MotionInc on 12th Nov 2020 6:28 pm. Edited 1 time in total