To follow up p_gill's post above: the rear diff pinion whine technically should increase with acceleration but I have found that it depends on the speed and if you are on and off the throttle. At certain speed ranges, the whine is much higher for me. some ranges lower. I would think that a bad wheel bearing would be a fairly consistent grind or whining noise all the time. Easiest way if you have access to a hoist, once on the hoist engage drive and carefully accelerate while someone else puts a stethoscope on the rear diff. Paul's suggestion is also an easy way to see if there are metal shavings in the oil. I definitely have that and clean my magnetic plug off weekly until my recon diff arrives (out for delivery right now ) & I get to the re & re.

Got the reconditioned diff from freelanderspecialist.com, ebay user name squashedblackgorilla, today. They also included the seal, LR02888, that goes between the haldex and diff. Happy puppy here. Now, to get it installed

OK, Monday is the day to re & re the rear diff with the recon from freelanderspecialist.com, would have liked one with the larger bearing but that simply was not meant to be . I have a question re the fluid levels as I will have to refill the haldex and the rear diff and I am going to do the PTU again and set the oil fill levels per my research.
Haldex: fill till running out of fill hole; replace plug. Run vehicle for five minutes, shut off, remove fill plug and refill till running out; remove 70ml and replace plug?
PTU: drain and refill fluid till running out; remove 100ml to set correct level and reinstall plug?
Rear Diff: fill till running out; remove 50ml to set correct level?

Can someone confirm the amounts to be removed re above? BTW, shop manual re rear diff fluid change, says fill to fill plug and reinsert plug and torque? WTH?! Also, layman Q, since the PTU and rear diffs both have breathers I believe, is it really required to remove fluid?

EDIT: Hopefully I don't have to code the diff to it's control module with SDD; I read through every post in this thread and else where and have not seen this requirement but it does not hurt to ask here?

I hope the PTU: drain and refill fluid till running out; remove 100ml to set correct level and reinstall plug?
Rear Diff: fill till running out; remove 50ml to set correct level? are both correct as that is what i did this week over a three day period doing one at a time.

Later today will see me start the car after changing the Haldex oil & filter and cleaning out the pump, i will then refill after letting it settle remove 70ml

MotionInc wrote:

I have a question re the fluid levels as I will have to refill the haldex and the rear diff and I am going to do the PTU again and set the oil fill levels per my research.
Haldex: fill till running out of fill hole; replace plug. Run vehicle for five minutes, shut off, remove fill plug and refill till running out; remove 70ml and replace plug?
PTU: drain and refill fluid till running out; remove 100ml to set correct level and reinstall plug?
Rear Diff: fill till running out; remove 50ml to set correct level?

Can someone confirm the amounts to be removed re above? BTW, shop manual re rear diff fluid change, says fill to fill plug and reinsert plug and torque? WTH?! Also, layman Q, since the PTU and rear diffs both have breathers I believe, is it really required to remove fluid?

EDIT: Hopefully I don't have to code the diff to it's control module with SDD; I read through every post in this thread and else where and have not seen this requirement but it does not hurt to ask here?

Artic wrote:

I hope the PTU: drain and refill fluid till running out; remove 100ml to set correct level and reinstall plug?
Rear Diff: fill till running out; remove 50ml to set correct level? are both correct as that is what i did this week over a three day period doing one at a time.

Later today will see me start the car after changing the Haldex oil & filter and cleaning out the pump, i will then refill after letting it settle remove 70ml

Bump???!!!!^^^
Would love someone with the knowledge to chime in before I do this again tomorrow!!
Removing some fluid from the Haldex makes sense to me as it's a sealed unit, i.e. no breather.

Motion,

Your plan seems fine

I just fill the rear differential until it drips out of the fill hole slowly.

If you are concerned about the level just drive on the highway for 20 minutes and then check the level when the fluid is hot.

You could do the same for the PTU.


The Haldex is basically an automatic transmission being used as center differential.

As with all automatic transmission the fluid level is critical.

Measure carefully.


Good luck

Paul

As above i finished my Haldex oil change will will suit until spring when the warmer weather is about, for crawling under cars link below.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=399554#399554

p_gill wrote:

Motion,

Your plan seems fine

I just fill the rear differential until it drips out of the fill hole slowly.

If you are concerned about the level just drive on the highway for 20 minutes and then check the level when the fluid is hot.

You could do the same for the PTU.


The Haldex is basically an automatic transmission being used as center differential.

As with all automatic transmission the fluid level is critical.

Measure carefully.


Good luck

Paul

Thanks Paul, much appreciated!

p_gill wrote:

Motion,

The Haldex is basically an automatic transmission being used as center differential.

As with all automatic transmission the fluid level is critical.

Measure carefully.


Good luck

Paul

Update: RE & RE of rear diff went smooth; took about 3 hours. Having a hoist and four hands is a real help. I can hear while driving again! Fingers crossed that this recondiff will last as long as the first (?) one, 201XXX kms. Now, I have no idea if it's really the original but it looks like it is. Left the removed diff with my buddy, rebuild kit in the rear hatch. Not sure we have all the tools necessary for a rebuild. Gonna do some research and see......., nevertheless, it's driving like a dream now.

I did attempt to drain and fill the PTU again (OCD was acting up) but was unsuccessful in getting the flex hose in this time. What a PITA, I got it in ok once before but not today; So, I am going to drill and tap the sucker. It just me off! Will research again p_gill's thread.

While I was at it, changed the motor oil/filter and the spark plugs (will update the other thread I started momentarily).

Just remove the bolt and drill a small hole in the Aluminum housing.

Don't damage the threads in the housing. (Be careful to hold the drill steady)

https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr2-35/d...nit-82510/



Congratulations on fixing the rear differential.

3 hours for your first time to R&R is impressive even with help.


Nice work

Paul

BossBob wrote:

Not really an automatic transmission. I’d describe it as a self contained, electronically controlled, wet clutch running in its own oil bath.

Bob,

Self contained - agreed

Electronically controlled - Ok

-----> Hydraulically activated

Wet Clutch ---> lets call it a Clutch Pack (for no good reason except to cause confusion)



Self Contained, Electronically controlled, Hydraulically Activated, Clutch Pack (it is Wet if you prefer)

If you start with an automatic transmission and you eliminate all of the things that aren't needed for a single speed transmission you end up with something like the Haldex.

With the caveat that the Haldex is a highly refined device

Click image to enlarge

Take care

Paul

My 2009 FL2 Auto has developed a diff whine under acceleration. The car has 140k on it and the diff was replaced 30k ago as I got it with a leaking and inop one. The new diff wasn’t a bell one but it was fitted by a reputable LR specialist.

It’s got the typical diff whine under acceleration, and chassis ears show a constant grinding from the diff. Since it was fitted the back end has been a bit tight under low speed hard turns, which I think is a common issue that bell has recently found a fix for?

Two questions:

Is this kind of failure to be expected or should I look into something that may have caused it before I wreck another - i.e. the hard turns issue.

The whine has been about for maybe 2000 miles. How long do I have till total failure or is it hard to tell? If the typical failure mode isn’t going to cause more damage or a crash I’m tempted to keep going for a bit as it drives fine and quietens when cruising.

Any thoughts welcome!

Walenut wrote:

There's now a supplier of Dimple sump plugs in the UK so thought I'd give it a go.

https://shop.motorsport-developments.co.uk...-348-p.asp

This is a follow up after about 2000 miles. The diff rumbling is pretty loud now, wife is complaining so I think it's shot & time to book in with Austin.

Hope is lasts.

This is the Mobilube synthetic SHC gear oil. First I thought it was the breathers blocked & condensation not escaping but I checked both & they where clear. (Side note; one has a restrictor on the end so the air doesn't escape as quick. Removed them before I discovered this.)

The original fill oil Castrol EPX? Didn't look like this when I removed it so I'm guessing the Mobilube is foaming. I put some in the bottle below & left if a couple of days to see if it would retum to it normal state but it's just stayed the same. Proves there no water in it, no separation.

So I'm thinking the Mobil is not a suitable replacement for the Castrol EPX. Can't see that there's much difference but something is upsetting it?

MotionInc wrote:

Update: RE & RE of rear diff went smooth; took about 3 hours. Having a hoist and four hands is a real help. I can hear while driving again! Fingers crossed that this recondiff will last as long as the first (?) one, 201XXX kms. Now, I have no idea if it's really the original but it looks like it is. Left the removed diff with my buddy, rebuild kit in the rear hatch. Not sure we have all the tools necessary for a rebuild. Gonna do some research and see......., nevertheless, it's driving like a dream now.

I did attempt to drain and fill the PTU again (OCD was acting up) but was unsuccessful in getting the flex hose in this time. What a PITA, I got it in ok once before but not today; So, I am going to drill and tap the sucker. It just me off! Will research again p_gill's thread.

While I was at it, changed the motor oil/filter and the spark plugs (will update the other thread I started momentarily).