Morning folks. My FL2 is now 10 years old and I plan on keeping it until it is uneconomical to repair, or I win the lottery.

With that in mind, I'm considering Undersealing the car. I do not have the skillset to do it myself, I know that. So I'd need to get someone to do it for me.

Spoke to my local indy who quoted £550 for a full strip and clean, rust treatment etc then full underseal.

Considering the amount of work I imagine is done, I don't think that's an unreasonable cost, however, is it worth doing on the FL2? I live in Scotland, so it's wet most of the time 😐

Cheers. FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - so many issues
2019 DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental
Now greatly regret selling the Outlander. MPG of the FL2 is atrocious and so are the fuel bills. Fun though 😎
Couldn’t afford the fuel bills so back to an older Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Significantly better than I remembered it to be…

Definitely worth doing. I bought my 09 HSE from a main dealer who refused to let me inspect the underside so I trusted him. When I looked it was covered in serious surface rust along both sills, all four suspension turrets and all jacking points.
I took two weeks cleaning, stripping etc and Waxoyling. An incredibly messy and horrible job. Very disappointed to see such a mess. Luckily nothing major but if not treated it would have got worse.
I think the quote you have , if you trust them, is well worth it. If it’s a keeper go for it. Derek Hill
2009 FL2 HSE TD4 Auto

Thanks. It's a lot of money at the moment but long term it could well be worth it I guess. FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - so many issues
2019 DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental
Now greatly regret selling the Outlander. MPG of the FL2 is atrocious and so are the fuel bills. Fun though 😎
Couldn’t afford the fuel bills so back to an older Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Significantly better than I remembered it to be…

I'm at the same point with my Freely. Can't see me changing soon so want to preserve what I have as long as possible.
Don't think £550 would be a lot to pay for that, if I can find someone local who can do it.

Had mechanics seen to as per 10 year service, plus rear diff replaced with Bell engineering upgrade. Haldex done. All xmission fluids changed Inc auto box flush. New brakes all round.

Now time for body\chassis I suppose.

MoT in couple of weeks so decision after that if she comes though ok. Andy
Freelander2 HSE (59 Plate, MY10 spec)

Mine is 7 yrs old now & in pretty good condition underneath so just ordered some Lanoguard to give it a good spray underneath before Winter & do that a couple of times a year, not too expensive & prefer it to underseal.

Quote:

I bought my 09 HSE from a main dealer who refused to let me inspect the underside so I trusted him.

And you still bought it?  Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

crolandc wrote:

Mine is 7 yrs old now & in pretty good condition underneath so just ordered some Lanoguard to give it a good spray underneath before Winter & do that a couple of times a year, not too expensive & prefer it to underseal.

I've seen Lanoguard advertised and always seemed like a cost effective method. However my worry is prep of the bodywork - I don't think I'd do a good job and I also wouldn't know when an area needed attention or when a little bit of rust was fine. FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - so many issues
2019 DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental
Now greatly regret selling the Outlander. MPG of the FL2 is atrocious and so are the fuel bills. Fun though 😎
Couldn’t afford the fuel bills so back to an older Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Significantly better than I remembered it to be…

I'm torn between Lanoguard and Bilt Hamber's range of products. Someone has wax oiled (poorly) before so I have plenty of prep to do first....

Bilt Hamber everytime , great products .

Mark 2009 FL2 TD4 SE (Sadly gone)
2007 FL2 TD4 GS (The wifes , gone after 8 great years)
2012 FL2 SD4 SPORT LE(Gone and missing it)
2015 DISCOVERY SPORT 2.2SD4 HSE (Now gone)
2014 Ford Bmax 1.0 ecoboost ( Gone but what next )
2014 Ford Focus 2.0tdci Zetec S (Gone,but what a car)
2020 Ford Fiesta ActiveX 1.0 Ecoboost
2024 Skoda Kodiaq 1.5 Tsi SEL

The Bilt Hamber Dynax products are extremely easy to apply if you buy the aerosols.

For £550 I can't imagine that areas such as the strut turrets, which will almost certainly have a fair amount of corrosion on a 10 year old freelander will be taken back to clean steel as that's a big job that really requires the struts to be removed. So I expect the prep would be a thorough clean, scrub back what can be reached with a wire brush or other mechanical rust removal, stuff that most people can do at home. More through methods such as acid removal etc take time, but again can be done at home.

Also how long will they have the car? It can take days even in a warm workshop to get all the nooks and crannies thoroughly dried out before you start covering them in waxoyl etc. And if they are doing more than just waxoyling the vehicle any primers or other coatings need drying time.

I guess what I'm trying to say is that if you can wait till the summer, doing a basic under body wax treatment is something most people can do. Remove all the plastic covers, thoroughly clean it, get it thoroughly dry, remove any flaking paint and rust with a wire brush and spray a couple of coats of Dynax UB on all outside surfaces and spray Dynax S50 into the sills and other cavities. That's the quick and easy option that buys you some time, perhaps a few years, but won't stop the rust altogether.

To do it properly is a long and involved job as you need to wait for each layer of protection to dry properly. Cleaning, drying, removing all rust via mechanical means or and/or acid. Clean again. Prime any bare steel with a good zinc heavy primer, let it dry for at least 24 hours. Clean again, then one coat of Dynax (or your prefered wax). Wait 24 hours. Then a second coat. Wait 24 hours, inspect and touch up any areas missed. Most people can do it themselves with ramps and a trolley jack, especially when you have warmer weather. But even a fully equipped workshop would need the vehicle for several days to really do a proper job.

I'm doing mine, one corner at a time. I've just spent 5 days doing one wheel arch, but this would have taken much less time in the summer as half my challenge has been waiting for acid rust removers to work and primers to dry, neither of which are fast in cooler weather. Once this arch is done I won't now be doing any more until spring.

One thing I have discovered is that the plastic wheel arch liners are a double edge sword. They do protect most of the arch from stone chips. But they trap lots of damp, gritty mud. If you don't have the wheel arch lip protectors/trim fitted the wheel arch liner will rub against the inside edge of the wheel arch lip and all that gritty mud will rub through the paint. This will allow rust to start on the inside of the wheel arch. The trim/lip protectors that so many people like to remove appear to provide a surface for the liner to rest/rub against without damaging the paint.

Thanks Al, good to know.

Stick the end of the hose up over the wheel arch liners next to the suspension. The volume of red soil from central Australia that comes out is pretty frightening. At least it is not salt like you lot have! Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

I’m going to get mine under sealed in the spring time.

There’s a place out past Glasgow called Preserve and Protect.

They need the car for a week to properly do it,
About £500ish to get it properly done.

I collected my car from T S Norman this afternoon after it had been serviced and had a chat with Steve the owner about this very thing and he told me they use an Air needle scaler to remove the rust then treat the clean metal afterwards.
First time I have been to them for any work and will 100% be going back, Steve is a decent bloke who knows his onions, a very rare thing these days