Hi all,

Ive had a 2010 FL2 for eight years now. Low mileage. I think mine was the first stop start eco model they made. Terrain response control has been a bit flaky for a few years now, not responding when you turn it on. It used to be that i would tun the engine off and turn it back on, and the terrain response would start working again. The hill descent and the terrain response stopped working now.

During lockdown, the alarm kept going off, so I had halfords come out and change the battery, and the stop start began working again, but only for a few weeks. Its not getting driven much.

A warning light is constantly flashing in the low centre of the dash now. An orange triangle with the exclamation mark in it, with an arrow wrapped around it.
I asked a guy from a garage to take a look. He said their testing machine showed it as a gear fault.

He tried changing the fuse in the boot five or six times, but it kept blowing it, and at the moment its only running on front wheel drive.

The mechanic said it was likely the haldex unit, and that it would cost a lot to fix.

I dont know anything about cars, any suggestions appreciated, thanks. Looking for the lowest cost fix available.

You're in the lap of the gods really.

You say low mileage but how low is low ?
Which fuse did your mechanic change - there are quite a few.
I think your haldex might have been failing for years - could have been a simple filter change then but maybe not now its been unaddressed for so long.
IIRC If the haldex filters start gumming up - internal pressure drops so the ECU pushes the haldex pump harder and harder until it fails and or the ECU burns out. Something is certainly shorting out now as a fuse keeps blowing.

My advice: Contact Bell Engineering or failing that find a local independent garage specialising in Landrovers - not a main dealer.

But be aware that although fixing haldex filters/pump is not especially technical ie you dont need a Cray supercomputer , it is labour intensive and labour charges can mount up especially at main dealers. Thats why those who want to save lots of £s change the filters themselves if they are capable and circumstances allow it. Jules

Hi. Thanks for the response.

You say low mileage but how low is low ?

About 52k.

Which fuse did your mechanic change - there are quite a few.

He knows his onions. He mentioned there are three fuses. One under the bonnet one in the glove compartment and one in the boot. But hes not a LR specialist. But he had a 4wd and his haldex unit went funky too, I think he said there were a couple of expensive bits on it, a solognac? Decent fella, even printed off a picture to show me.

I think your haldex might have been failing for years - could have been a simple filter change then but maybe not now its been unaddressed for so long.

Well, if thats true it sucks, because I've mentioned my failing Terrain response system on every service, with simmonites, and they even told me once, that they didnt have the testing software that an LR dealership has, and the only answer Ive ever gotten, was 'it happens to them all' so I took it down to farnells, asked them to look at it during the service. Which they didnt do. I rang them and asked them why they didnt do, and the lad was about as useful as a chocolate teapot. Didnt speak to an actual mechanic.

IIRC If the haldex filters start gumming up - internal pressure drops so the ECU pushes the haldex pump harder and harder until it fails and or the ECU burns out. Something is certainly shorting out now as a fuse keeps blowing.
My advice: Contact Bell Engineering or failing that find a local independent garage specialising in Landrovers - not a main dealer.
But be aware that although fixing haldex filters/pump is not especially technical ie you dont need a Cray supercomputer Smile , it is labour intensive and labour charges can mount up especially at main dealers. Thats why those who want to save lots of £s change the filters themselves if they are capable and circumstances allow it.

Huh. Moneys tight right now. Care to hazard a guess as to what the cost might be? Ta.

You know I think youre post has just given me a eureka moment and possibly answered a five year old question.

Im going have to dig out the log book, with the receipts, so I can name the items, but about four to five years ago, i kept finding a five pence piece oil blob on the drive, and took it to a decent local garage, who serviced our other family cars. They changed a big black plastic thing under the bonnet and charged me about £360
(i'll have to dig out the reciept for the name of the big black plastic thingy...sorry... )
A week later the oil blob was still there so i took it back, and they wantd to change the big cast aluminium thing next to it, that it was connected to.

I suspected they had gotten it wrong, so I took it up to simmonites. They said it was a £17 rubber washer, on the rear diff, but it would cost a thousand quid to take the engine out to change it so I did it. They called me halfway through and said the clutch plate was also worn, and they could change that for £250. So I did.

It stopped the oil from leaking, but youve now got me wondering if that was the start of this problem?!!! If that oil leak was somehow connected?

Could that oil have been leaking from the haldex unit?

Wasnt long after that the terrain response started acting funny.

The haldex and diff are at the rear of the car and would not need the engine removed to carry out any work on them. Sounds like the oil leak was from the rear crankshaft oil seal which would need either the gearbox or engine removed in order to replace the seal. That would also allow the clutch to be inspected/ replaced if worn or contaminated with oil. Best did out those receipts to see what you paid for!

Some prices here: “Bell Engineering Freelander 2 Prices”

Recon Haldex Gen 4 unit = £900 inc VAT and 12 months warranty
Recon Haldex and Pump Gen 4 £1140 inc VAT and 12 months warranty
New Haldex Gen 4 Pump = £240 inc VAT & 12 month warranty
Fitting Service = £180 Inc VAT

Haldex Service £180 inc VAT. (add £240 for new pump if needed)

dondiddy wrote:

The haldex and diff are at the rear of the car and would not need the engine removed to carry out any work on them. Sounds like the oil leak was from the rear crankshaft oil seal which would need either the gearbox or engine removed in order to replace the seal. That would also allow the clutch to be inspected/ replaced if worn or contaminated with oil. Best did out those receipts to see what you paid for!

Deeky

Lots of people on here have used Bell Engineering and have only great things to say about the service. Give them a ring

http://www.bellengineering.co.uk/ Jules