My trusty 2007 Freelander (2.2 TD4) has done just over 216,000 miles and on my commute home from work this evening, something has gone kaput- turbo related.

As I accelerated in second gear and changed up into 3rd at about 2000rpm, normally I hear the sound of the turbo vanes changing (I think that's what it is- makes a brief "hissing" sound as the turbo winds down when changing up at low revs- would that be the actuator?) but all of a sudden, there was this judder and it sounded like I had just ran over a loose tin panel or something, then I noticed a severe lack of power, a cloud of sooty black smoke on acceleration, and if the throttle was neither full on or off, the car would jerk and you could hear the injectors would clatter as if they were being controlled by the ECU to compensate for the lack of power.

I decided to nurse it home, but I need to get to the bottom of this quickly...
The turbo sounded fine beforehand- no disconcerting noises or loud whine.
Now it isn't spooling up at all when revving the engine or driving under load.
The large rubber intercooler pipes on the front were changed last summer, so it can't be them- if that were the case, the turbo would spool up and you'd hear the hiss from under the front, as I recall. This isn't the case this time, as the turbo doesn't spool up at all.

Any suggestions..? "We're in danger, we've got to get out."
"What are you talking about?"
"I've been called a ponce."

Last edited by Lord Rich Tea Biscuit on 12th Aug 2020 9:31 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Get fault codes read if possible. Have a look at the turbo actuator link. The retaining circlips have a habit of breaking & the link can become disconnected. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

B*gger...

Spoke too soon didn't I...?




I only replaced it last year!
Premium rubber hose... HAH!

Now, the question is, would this split hose have been enough to cause the symptoms I have mentioned?

There is no sign of anything else untoward under the hood.
I've had a good clean up and look around- the only stray oil was around the area of the split hose- at least the fan had a good oil!
(Also, I've got the usual weeping around the air intake pipe join, but that's been like that ever since I've owned it.)

Click image to enlarge

“ Now, the question is, would this split hose have been enough to cause the symptoms I have mentioned?“

In a word, Yes.

I wouldn’t worry about the actuator yet, just replace that hose. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Ordered with next-day delivery...
I do hope so!

It's just weird because when it split last time, it made the whooshing "steam train" noise under acceleration, but this time, it must have gone in a spectacular fashion (hence the tinny noise I heard, which could have been a loud "Psssst" as the pipe blew).
However, last time, it appeared to drive pretty much normally, albeit sluggish, but this time, the throttle was aggressively jerking the car whilst you could hear the injectors clattering and doing their own thing.
The old transmission must have taken a hammering on the way home...

Anyhow, we'll see where I am this time tomorrow. It would be a massive weight off my shoulders if this was a quick fix... "We're in danger, we've got to get out."
"What are you talking about?"
"I've been called a ponce."

sounds about right just depends on the tear..
mine did the same failed again within a year - i ordered from a different supplier this time and the hose was a better fit, the first one was a right PITA to fit as it was a touch on the small side.

edit: cant type or spell it seems... Stewart
2007 Freelander 2 SE TD4
2007 A6 quattro 3.0 TDI Manual
1986 coupe quattro (kv) square wheels.
1972 mini 1400 100BHP A series

Oh yes- I spent much longer than I should have wrestling with the pipe last time I replaced it (less than a year ago!).
I think I'll boil the kettle beforehand and warm it up first- that seemed to make all the difference. "We're in danger, we've got to get out."
"What are you talking about?"
"I've been called a ponce."

This will give you an idea of where to find the turbo actuator link (if you have to).

https://translate.google.com.au/translate?...uator_stem (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Ah. Thanks for posting that.

So it's best accessed underneath the car?
This should be fun...  "We're in danger, we've got to get out."
"What are you talking about?"
"I've been called a ponce."

Under car, you'll see the turbo next to the drivers side wheel arch. If you are doing it take the WD40 and some high temp grease with you to give it a clean, a lube and a ton of wiggling back and forth while you're there. I'll be doing exactly the same this weekend

Ah yes- the legendary £38 high temperature grease...

Is there a cheaper alternative? "We're in danger, we've got to get out."
"What are you talking about?"
"I've been called a ponce."

Any copper based grease will do...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Carlube-XCG020-Mu...B003PGE5WA

Update!!

Fitted new SILICONE hose this morning- much easier to fit than that cheapo rubber one, although it may be because I realised which way up it went this time.

Took it for a 6-mile road test and did 80mph in 4th down a couple of straight sections to clear the remains of the soot out of the system and she's back to her nippy old self.

I must admit I was a bit dubious when I started her up- there was still a lot of black smoke/soot in the system, which had obviously accumulated during the limp home.

Look at that split though:



Amazing how one stupid piece of rubber hose that's less than a year old can cause so much trouble!


Also, listening to the turbo, the actuator system is still clearly working- I always get that audible hissing sound when changing up from 2nd to 3rd at <2000rpm. "We're in danger, we've got to get out."
"What are you talking about?"
"I've been called a ponce."

Glad to hear you got it sorted easily. You’d soon know if the actuator system was faulty, a distinct lack of power above 1800/2000 rpm. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)