Fitted rooftop tent, hardest part is putting the cover back on.
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should you have bought a D3/4 or Defender instead ?

good lookin, have to tell us how practical it is as a Safari wagon.

The roof rails are a bit unstable on the Freelander & will fail if there is excessive vertical movement. Corrugated roads for example!

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic35376.html Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

I purchased and fitted these, seem better than the LR OEM rails, a bit sleeker, better quality and more sturdy!


https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07TYZZK22/ref...11_TE_item

Tom, I don't agree. After market items are generally inferior to the OEM items.

Sorry. Time will tell.

The problem in Australia is the corrugated roads, did 2000km of corrugations last trip, even with tyres at 24psi (hot) it rips the roof racks apart. One screw in a joint in not enough. I have also had 2 mounting bolts break (on seperate trips) which I had to fix in the outback.

https://vimeo.com/364281135 Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

My FL2 is my poor man's New Defender - further to using the roof bars, i have just purchased the Front Runner full rack, will post pics when completed. agrre with comments about roof bars are too flexible esp. with the weight of the tent, plus the FR allows me to add extra goodies.

I disagree that the Freelander is the poor man's Defender. The Freelander is much more luxurious to drive. After tens of thousands of km in out back Australia it is plainly clear which car I would rather be in.

I had a roof platform, completely rebuilt it (but removed it) cutting it to fit exactly to size, a couple of hundred pop rivets later, still kept it, but now use 4 cross bars. Net weight saving of 16kg. Unfortunately still have up to 142kg including roof rack up there, but we empty fuel as quick as we can & put the solar panels in the car on corrugated roads.

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No wonder your rack gets knackered with 140kg up there!! I thought the dynamic load limit was about 75kg?!

The LR crossbars & including roof rails have a gross weight of 75kg. So you can put about 63kg on the roof. With trade quality crossbars on LR rails you can do 100kg.

I'm using 4 LR crossbars to spread the load. 142kg less solar panels = 127kg less 50L of petrol (0.74kg/L) = 90kg.

With a roof platform one is stuck with the addition weight.

I can get the load on the roof down fairly comfortably by the time we reach corrugated roads. Also reducing tyre pressure to 24psi makes a huge improvement to the quality of ride.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic33763.html

The fuel one needs in the outback plus other stuff.

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Just a reminder while on roof rack information:

If using ratchet tie down straps, put half a twist in the webbing to stop the webbing from vibrating in the wind. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18