I’ve just ordered the blanking plate but would like to grease the actuator arm as well. Could you point me in the right location to where it’s located as I’m struggling a bit even with searching. I’ve had the same issues for a while and would like to get it sorted before bigger problems arise from it. TIA

This link shows it pretty well.

https://translate.google.com.au/translate?...uator_stem (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Get car up on Axle stands if you can, or even if you raise the front end 100mm that would work, I personally drove the car up two lengths of oak sleepers, then chocked all the wheels with the hand brake on. It would be worth putting the wheels on left full lock as well.

Underneath the car there is the metal protection tray, held in by 6 x 14 mm bolts, remove them, and slip the tray out.

Get a torch and get your head right underneath the car toward the back of the engine on the right (underneath Drivers feet area)

You should see the actuator.

Disconnect the wiring block connector on the reverse side of it. You might have to put your arm through the right hand wheel arch.

Remove the Arm cir-clip, a skinny flat head should do it.

Then disconnect the arm, work it back and forth to see if any sticky points.

Now I soaked the joints in WD40 and worked the arm back and forth, left it for half an hour, then painted the ball joint and other pivots in copper ease, which is all I had available.

There is probably a better lube.


Good luck! MY2014 HSE Santorini Black

DGL/Badger, Cheers guys! Looks like the fine weather over the next few days will be well used.

Great stuff! Can’t wait to hear your results.

Without sounding patronising, the blanking plate link I sent was specific for my car, did you check it’s ok to use on your car? MY2014 HSE Santorini Black

Great stuff! Can’t wait to hear your results.

Without sounding patronising, the blanking plate link I sent was specific for my car, did you check it’s ok to use on your car?


DGL, yes no worries

Hi

Fitted the same plate as EGR with a hole in as my vehicle is Oct 2013 When plate fitted no misfire or hesitation at all.

The problem is after 10-15 miles warning of restricted performance appears.

The next thing to do is follow DGL and lubricate the actuator and hope and see what happens

After readings Alex P`s comments I will see what happens

As I write this I can hear the cars going round the track at Silverstone they have no misfires

I am seriously thinking of a remap and EGR valve deletion but concerned about the water cooling of the EGR

Hi

Fitted the same plate as DGL with a hole in as my vehicle is Oct 2013 When plate fitted no misfire or hesitation at all.

The problem is after 10-15 miles warning of restricted performance appears.

The next thing to do is follow DGL and lubricate the actuator and hope and see what happens

After readings Alex P`s comments I will see what happens

As I write this I can hear the cars going round the track at Silverstone they have no misfires

I am seriously thinking of a remap and EGR valve deletion but concerned about the water cooling of the EGR

Richard Willetts wrote:

...my vehicle is Oct 2013. When plate fitted no misfire or hesitation at all.

Only this statement alone and it should make one wonder...

Hi folks, I had the same noise as above on my 2009 gs. Long story short, the clip holding the turbo actuator arm to the motor was missing and the arm had detached. All refitted and running well. Long story to follow under different thread.

Will be under there this weekend for turbo arm, and plan to clean the inside of turbo as well to make sure vanes aren't sticking.... weather permitting.

Few more ticked off the list with no change to my judder @ 1800revs.

In SDD:
Reset Transmission Module
Reset Rear Diff Module
Reset Powertrain Module

Took blanking plate off my EGR just to make sure that wasn't causing issues. It wasn't.

Pulled Haldex fuse. Judder much reduced, but can still feel it and the low spot in power is still there. Just not getting the vibration all the way to the rear of car when the rear isn't hooked up, so pretty sure problem is at the front end.

Judder still there in cruise control, so don't think it'd be accellerator pedal sensor.

I’m one of many with this irritating vibration which has to be engine related or perhaps gearbox input shaft related as it occurs at exactly the same revs- 1800 to 2000 - in any gear. Cruising at 1800 revs in top is irritating but let it drift up just a fraction over 2000 revs and the car is transformed.

Since max torque is generated at around 1800-2000 rpm (depending on the source of the info) might this be of relevance?

Shafts are on my radar as well, juddering that aggressive would make sense for something rotating out of balance...

Want to rule out the turbo (the low spot in power causing the engine to struggle maybe?)

PTU drained oil looked pretty good actually, so can't imagine it's chewed itself apart.

I can’t see how it can in any way be connected to any part of the transmission (apart from the input to the gear box) as it occurs at these revs in any gear. But as similar symptoms seem to occur with both manual and auto boxes, it would seem to be 'purely' an engine issue, perhaps related to max torque in some way?

See my reply on another thread to this problem here, re cleaning and / or replacing 2 sensors. Easy job. Might help?

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic35746-15.html 2012 (62) FL2 TD4 XS