Right, so the sound on the Video is the TCC? as that is the exact noise im experiencing.

why would that only happen when warm and not cold? and why would that coincide with a slight hesitation?

Thanks MY2014 HSE Santorini Black

I found the the engine was doing it in any gear from around 1,800 to 2,200 revs, But would drive through it.

Only hope to help,
The Mass air Flow meter (MAF) reads the Mass of air coming out from the Air filter box, plus measures the temperature. As the air passes through the Turbo and is compressed (it takes on some of the heat from the turbo) Thus it goes through the inter-cooler to be cooled. (it.s all to do with air particles at different temperatures)
The Throttle body I'm sure also reads the temperature and the pressure,(boost pressure) The ECU then works out the correct fuel ratio, timing etc to give the Engine (For the power load required, traction control and Emissions control etc)

If any air(boost pressure) is loosed between the turbo and throttle body (split pipe, hole on in damaged inter-cooler) The Throttle body will give the wrong information to the ECU to what the MAF meter is giving. Thus shutting down the fuel system on and off.
For all this to happen it takes a second or so to catch up, Thus Juddering through the revs. (Auto will be slightly different as explained above.
Hence why mind smoked under load, just before it Juddered. shut down for a split second.

Juddering is a control fault from the ECU being given wrong information from any of the lots of sensors on the cars Can-bus system, From witch one and why ??
But this should not be mistaken for a bearing, clutch or in-balance on the drive line fault ??

For Help info ??
Black smoke = wrong air to fuel mixture, to much fuel not enough air (Boost pressure if turbo) or damaged injectors or fuel pump lack of compression etc etc.

Gray smoke = Burning Oil in the system some where. Valve seals, turbo seas, compression, head gasket etc etc .

White Smoke = water in the system, Head gasket etc etc

None starter = Knackered Freelander.

@DGL
That sound is a surge sound heard from the turbo, when the ECU reduces the torque for the gear change and in the same time opens a little the EGR to dump the excess intake pressure into the exhaust. Yes, you've read correctly, the air flow through the EGR pipe is designed to flow in both directions, depending on the situation...
Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=49&v=Rr5Hl2r4Rq4

Also check the free movement of the turbo lever, as poster of that video you keep referring solved the issue by lubing the lever.

@alex

Thank you , that’s brilliant, I’m beginning to understand this a little better.

I’ll buy the stainless steel EGR plate with the hole in the middle, do you recommend gasket seal for it?

And are there any particular eBay sellers you can recommend? MY2014 HSE Santorini Black

Don't know...
I, for one, used a 2mm thick PTFE "blanking plate", through which I drilled a 6mm hole.
PTFE is easier to drill, heat resistant, oil resistant and enough malleable to act like a gasket itself.

Thanks Alex, I’ll get on with both this and the turbo arm link and report back the findings.  MY2014 HSE Santorini Black

Bit of an update, I inspected the actuator arm today, it was free and moving quite well. I greased it anyway and worked it in. I took it for a road test and the first 30 mins were hesitation free, I thought id fixed it. After a quick stop I set off again but the hesitating problem is still there, although there is no Turbo Flutter anymore? But I would say the amount of hesitation is reduced just by greasing the arm.

I aslo had the EGR reducer plate turn up in the post, so i fitted that. I noticed how gummed up the inlet was, I cleaned it as best as i could and fitted the plate.

Road test was interesting, it felt like a better drive, and the occurrence of the hesitation was much, much less. Probably 50% less.

So a question would be, By fitting the plate, will the performance and hesitation likely improve over time, or should the placement of the blanking plate provide an immediate change that won't improve with time?

Thanks MY2014 HSE Santorini Black

Immediate improvement and possible more during time, time when the EGR system is (re)adapting to the new conditions.
At least this is how it was in my case.

First 30 mins were the heat up period, during which the system is using slightly different maps.

Hi Alex,

Thank you for your information, fingers crossed it will improve.

During the greasing of the actuator arm I took this video.



That noise is the throttle body shutting down is that correct?

It can last as long as 10 minutes.

That’s why when I was checking the actuator the pitch of the throttle body changed?!

Is that normal? MY2014 HSE Santorini Black

Throttle body and the turbo actuator motor are two different things, on two different locations on the engine.
What you have in the above video, I suppose it's the turbo motor module.

The motor for actuating the lever is driven on a PWM (pulse width modulation) basis, at about 1kHz.
In layman terms, there are two forces that act one against another which keep that arm in the desired position.
When you are trying to move the arm, you are "helping" one force or the other - depending on the direction you pull/push - and this is why the tone is changing pitch.

That’s great, thanks for clearing that up!  MY2014 HSE Santorini Black

I had taken my Freelander to my local JLR dealer last November who “inspected the car” and after having it for three days advised my that all Freelanders do the same. Is this possibly what all Freelanders do or is there an actual fault? I know that if I gently accelerate there is no noise or fluctuations in the engine but with medium acceleration the noise returns but when there’s harsh acceleration it’s very minimal.

So after my initial disappointment of roughly a 50% improvement in the hesitant granny acceleration up a gradual incline after fitting the EGR reducer and greasing the turbo actuator arm, I have some great news.

I took the car out for a 2 hour run last night, the temp was 14 degrees, the car did not once hesitate or make that dreaded sound.

Which made me think it’s definitely temperature related, it drove so nicely I convinced myself it’s only going to happen irregularly for 3 months of the year. I can live with that.

Today I had to go out again, this time 4 hours, 28 degrees, I set off thinking it’s going to be hesitating and pcha pcha pcha-Ing all the way.

Not once in 4 hours did it happen, And I was trying my hardest to make it happen!

Even after a 30 min break when setting off again, which it’s normally prime time for the symptoms, it was absolutely clear.

The car definitely felt smoother, and the bonus of 39mpg on the display, from 32mpg yesterday!

Now I’m not saying it is permanently fixed, As I’m not 100% sure what it was initially. but something has changed in the cars behaviour. Fingers crossed it will last a long time.

So for anyone who is suffering right now, and there are a few, a very cheap and quick intervention would be a EGR plate AND grease the turbo actuator arm. It’s worth the effort.


Here’s the link for the plate supplier

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111585366725 MY2014 HSE Santorini Black

Long may that continue!

MAF replaced for me last night - marked improvement in driving, but no change to my (non temperature related) judder.

Will move the Turbo Actuator arm up the list for me... will try and get under tonight.

Thanks grue, and thanks to all who have chipped in with the discussions and advice. MY2014 HSE Santorini Black