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globe



Member Since: 23 Mar 2017
Location: Auckland
Posts: 73

ozjeff62 wrote:

Your discs have a lip on them, easy enough to replace them at the same time.


Does a lip mean they should be replaced?

Post #394204 14th Jul 2020 8:38 am
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Jack frost



Member Since: 21 Dec 2011
Location: UK
Posts: 796

United Kingdom 

Carnoob wrote:
Hello everyone i'm sorry if that's a dumb question but i'm still learning the basics, I just bought the Haynes manual and I think the time has come to replace my front brake pads do you think I need to replace my discs as well? (I don't have a micrometer)

I'm trying to make a list of all the tools i'll need to buy so i'd like to get your suggestions and more info on the screws and bolts I have to remove!

I'm also wondering what size and type of "guide pins" I see the tightening torques in the haynes manual (but the only precision given is that it's an allen bolt) but I can't find their type, same problem for the "Caliper mounting bracket bolts" the only information I found was the "disc retaining screw" which seems to be a T50.

I'm also wondering where to find the caliper mounting bracket bolts the manual says they have to be replaced every time the discs are changed.

So what I think I need is :
- Jack stands 2t or 3t(how many?)
- Breaker bar
- Torque wrench for the caliper bracket bolts and for the wheel ( I'm not sure if I also need one for the small torque settings)
- Wrenches/Keys
- A tool to put the brake piston in place ( the manual of the brake pads says to not use the piston tool used in the haynes video?? https://oscaro.media/catalog/images/pdf/161/xzs158gb.pdf )
any advice is welcome
Thank you!











Your pads are look fine for a long time yet Thumbs Up

Post #394205 14th Jul 2020 8:49 am
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Carnoob



Member Since: 14 Jun 2019
Location: Paris
Posts: 7

France 

Thanks a lot for the suggestions guys! Thank you for taking the time to write this!

I guess i'll wait a little more and replace the discs and pads at the same time.

Post #394206 14th Jul 2020 8:56 am
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jules



Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 5001

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

Carnoob: I have a Haynes manual too but the JLR workshop manual is much more useful IMO.
You can download it here in PDF format

https://www.dropbox.com/s/n0e6q5jj1l1fe2z/...6-2010.pdf

The Haynes manuals of today are a shadow of the their former selves - with poor pics and no decent diagrams or overviews.

I rarely use the Haynes. The JLR has much clearer instructions and diagrams.

PS those pads look fine. Minimal thickness is 2mm Jules

Post #394212 14th Jul 2020 10:16 am
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Carnoob



Member Since: 14 Jun 2019
Location: Paris
Posts: 7

France 

thank you Jules Thumbs Up I downloaded it once but completely forgot about it. It really is a lot more detailed than the Haynes one (but the Haynes is much more approchable for a noob like me Laughing ).

Post #394213 14th Jul 2020 10:41 am
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ozjeff62



Member Since: 28 May 2018
Location: Sydney, NSW
Posts: 494

Australia 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Ipanema Sand

globe wrote:
ozjeff62 wrote:

Your discs have a lip on them, easy enough to replace them at the same time.


Does a lip mean they should be replaced?


The smallest thickness you should let the discs get is 26mm. That's only 2mm less than new. A lip only has the be a bit over half a millimetre for you to be close to the wear limit - there will be a lip on each side of the disc.

So a fat lip probably means you need to change. Smile MY11 SD4 SE Auto

Post #394250 15th Jul 2020 12:55 am
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Carnoob



Member Since: 14 Jun 2019
Location: Paris
Posts: 7

France 

Another quick question, the service manual recommends DOT 4 brake fluid meeting ISO 4925 Class 6 and Land Rover LRES22BF03 requirements if SHELL DONAX YB DOT4 ESL FLUID is not aviable but does anyone know what are these requirements?

I can't fint SHELL DONAX YB DOT4 anywhere in France.

Thank you

Post #394265 15th Jul 2020 2:33 pm
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