Hi,

Does not sound good at all.... Did you fit the bearings yourself? If a new set of bearings was fitted correctly, it should last a reasonable time, regardless of haldex type/software and bearing size.

My only advice is to ask Austen at Bell Engineering. I think its the place where you will get the most honest answer and price for the components.

I resume this old discussion because it is simply fantastic!
Congratulations to Mrrover75 for his beautiful reportage, incredible work.

I wanted to ask 3 things:
- for all Freelander 2, is the rear differential the same? I have a 2007 MY
- How did you adjust the backlash between pinion gear and crownwheel?
- Why didn't you replace the crownwheel bearings?

Thank you so much

Hi,

Thank you

Some quick answers from my side:

- for all Freelander 2, is the rear differential the same? I have a 2007 MY
Yes and no. A diff with a larger pinion bearing was fitted to the later models. Both diffs will fit all models.
- How did you adjust the backlash between pinion gear and crownwheel?
The clearances are set by shims behind the bearings at the factory. They are basically not adjustable after the bearings are mounted. During my repairs, I have only replaced the necessary components. This to disturb this setting as little as possible. In most cases the small pinion bearing only as this is the one that wears out. I have taken both on high mileage diffs.
- Why didn't you replace the crownwheel bearings?
These bearings does not wear as much as the pinion bearings. Lower RPMS and supported in each end gives these an easier life. The point over explains why I do not replace them unless absolutely necessary. Did it on one diff.

I have now done 7 diffs. 4 off them are still in daily use and the reports from the owners are positive! The others has not been installed yet, or are "lost in space" (no reports..)

Most important thing to say, is that I do this on a DIY approach. The Idea is to replace the necessary components to give these diffs a second lease of life. Seem to work nicely so far. The professionals will do this a lot more thoroughly and offer warranty.
Hope this helps a bit.

MRRover75 thank you again!
It was a great help to me that I am documenting myself to do this job as soon as it shows up.
DIY is my passion and I'm looking for info for the clutch plate of the Ford Mondeo, obviously used, so I am ready to do that...

To make my differential tools I purchased a brand new clutch friction plate for a 1.8 litre 16V Mk3 Mondeo (2000-2007) which was £16 on eBay. I pressed the centre out and welded it to an old 1/2 inch drive socket after turning them to match in a lathe. I had been looking for a used friction plate but gave up and purchased new because the difference in price didn't justify waiting for a used one to appear. The other tool I made in the same way as MRRover75 using a brand new socket to fit the nut cut down and welded to a piece of tube with brackets to secure it to the diff casing.

Thank you so much Petero, good idea!

Hi Petero,
can you suggest me where you got this Mondeo clutch plate at that price?
I have searched in various places but under 60€ I have not found anything!
Thank you in advance

Greetings!

At what point does one do this bearing replacement?
At the "humming" phase? (i almost believe "humming" from FL2 rear diffs is standard)...
Or do you wait until it starts whining? (a significantly higher pitched version of humming).
Or when it starts making "whirring" sounds?
Obviously once it starts making grinding noises it's probably overdue...

I ask because mine has been humming for months (maybe even a year, i cannot remember)....

Mariuzzello wrote:

Hi Petero,
can you suggest me where you got this Mondeo clutch plate at that price?
I have searched in various places but under 60€ I have not found anything!
Thank you in advance

Hi Mariuzzello,
It was from a UK eBay sellar but the same plate is £25 now and postage to italy would be another £29 so total would be around 60 Euro so not any use to you, sorry.
All I can suggest is asking clutch repair businesses or garages in you area to see if they have any old plates that they have removed from customer's cars. I tried that but didn't manage to find one but you might have better luck

#8 rebuilt and fitted. Another FL2 gone silent and owner happy
A request for doing #9 did recently came in.....

Hi MRRover 75 and congratulations for your job!
I have a question for you: can you confirm that the splined socket for imput shaft (that you built) has 23 teeth?
Thanks

MRRover75 wrote:

Hi all,

Thanks for the feedback. No need to say that frequent oil changes probably will help improving the life of the diff. I guess much can be discussed there regarding frequency and oil quality/type.

Hi,

I have given up speculating the main reason why these pinion bearings fail. Only thing I know, is that the 9 ones I have rebuilt, have worked superb and I have no reports back from anyone that they have failed. I guess these has not been on the road long enough to build a greater mileage, but some should have failed allready if something was assembled wrong. I have only used Timken and SKF bearings. Mine has now done aprox. 50000kilometres after assembly, so probably as good as they was when new. Early diffs (-07-09) seem to hold 200000km+ before the pinion bearing fails. later ones more early for some reason but some mentioned that cheap bearing copies from China was used there !?!

Regarding lubrication, there is two oil channels to the outer pinion bearing in the casting. One lower probably below the oil level, and one higher up, probably for ventilation of some kind. Lack of frequent oil changes is probably contributing to a reduced lifetime...

Can`t see any misalignment in the assembly, might be the picture of the large pinion bearing before its fully seated?

I also feel the pre-load on the bearing seems a bit high, but I have not gambled on reducing this on my rebuilds. Just sticking to the OEM procedure when tightening up. Only thing is that I throw away the torque wrench. A lot more torque is needed to start compressing the collapsible spacer than the specified 250Nm.

Some pictures of the last diff when opened up, this one had approx 220000km on the clock:

Very interesting. It's a shame you're so far away, as I'd commission you to do mine.

The LR service document does mention that more than 250Nm will be needed to start to compress the spacer, but the final torque figure should end up at 250 Nm.


I'm just trying to decide what to do with mine, as by the time I've bought the bearing and the tool, it'll probably be just as expensive to get a replacement diff. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Your best option is to buy a reconditioned unit from Bell Engineering. No doubt that he is the best on these units! --> http://www.bellengineering.co.uk/freelander-2-products/