Ok,

Tested battery, was at 10.56. Disconnected battery was instantly at 12.47.

Connected again, back down to 10.56. Wife pressed start button, down to mid 8 region, didn't start.

Key out, back up to 10.5 area. Then it started to go up slowly. Checked again a little while later, was over 11.5.
Tried to start again, dropped below 9 again and didn't start.

If it's over 12 disconnected and drops immediately, is it the battery of something draining in the car?

How old is the battery?

If it is more than 3-4 years old it will be due for replacement.

18 months old with a 5 year warranty! If won't be able to find the bloody receipt!

It does sound like a faulty battery.

Has the car been left for a long time without use? (During lockdown)

If the battery is allowed to discharge below 12v, it will shorten the life of the battery.

The only real way to prove is to fully charge the battery, and then get it tested.

OWF wrote:

Ok,

Tested battery, was at 10.56. Disconnected battery was instantly at 12.47.

Connected again, back down to 10.56. Wife pressed start button, down to mid 8 region, didn't start.

Key out, back up to 10.5 area. Then it started to go up slowly. Checked again a little while later, was over 11.5.
Tried to start again, dropped below 9 again and didn't start.

If it's over 12 disconnected and drops immediately, is it the battery of something draining in the car?

Thanks,

I changed the starter and when it was jumped the starter seemed fine. It also started ok after the jump when I turned it off and on again a few times one after the other to see if it worked.

Just seems odd the battery would drop so much just being hooked up with no key in the ignition....

Sounds like a couple of dead cells if your battery is falling to 8 volts.

So I've just had a jumper pack on the car (mate is a green keeper and they use it for the tractors etc) it's a beefy 12v jumper and it didn't start the car. Same clicking.

All fuses pulled and no change to the battery voltage (except slowly back up to around 11.5v as before)

Battery tested out of the car and showed over 12v...

Going back to the starter motor....?

How are you testing the battery out of the car? If you are not load testing it then your test means nothing.

OWF wrote:

Going back to the starter motor....?

Are you certain that it not just a dud cell in the battery giving high resistance, and little real capacity. This is a common reason why batteries appear to fully charge but have little or no real power.

I can't see that you have tried another proven battery, so I believe you are wasting your time doing anything until you do. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 82k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

^^^

Agreed, until you know you have a battery that is a 100% you will not get a true result, get yourself a brand new battery.

Even if it doesn't start with a heavy duty jump pack?

I'll see if I can get a good battery from a mate and give it a try.

OWF,

Disconnect the negative lead from the battery and only connect the jumper pack.

This will eliminate your battery as a source for the drain.

Don't try to start your Freel2 just dock the key and turn on the headlights, radio, etc. and measure the voltage.

Does the Voltage drop still?

Let us know.

If the voltage is significantly more stable then your battery is bad

Take care

Paul

Did you find the root cause???