Hi all - thanks in advance for reading my post.

I am planning to install a Woodway Microlink system in my 2008 FL2 to control emergency warning equipment for 999 response work. I will need to run a loom of cables between a control panel mounted on the dash, a relay box/interface in the boot and then on to LEDs in the rear light clusters, front grille, dash, to headlight flasher relay and running up the B column onto the roof. I intend to power the control panel and interface by piggybacking from the fuse box behind the glove box (individual lights are powered directly from positive feeds from the interface and grounded locally). This means, whatever the configuration, I will need a loom of about 10-12 wires running between the dash and boot.

Having read around the forum I wonder if the best route for the cables between the dash and boot will be at floor level. It sounds like the easiest way to do this is running the wires behind the trim for the columns and door gutters etc. but I'm not sure if my loom will be too thick to tuck away like this.

The summary of my, probably unnecessarily, lengthy post is I would be grateful if anyone has any views on a) anywhere in the cabin, particularly close to the dash, I could mount the interface box (dimensions: 138 x 65 x 40) so I would only need to run two cables to the boot (to power the rear light clusters) and one up the B column (to power the lightbar), and, b) if there isn't anywhere else suitable in the cabin, the best way to run cables into the boot.

Thanks again. Jamie.

Hi Jamie,

I install the Unilink system on multiple cars during the course of the year, i'm not sure how different it is to a micro link. If i was putting the kit on an FL2 the interface box would go in the boot. Either behind the left hand trim panel or in the wheel well under the Rear Junction Box (RJB). Find a perm live feed in the white/blue fuse carrier in the rear junction box.

I would NOT take a feed from the fusebox behind the glove box as A) this is not a fusebox but a big box of electronic switches and relays B) it doesn't like unexpected loads C) most of the outputs have a current limitation and can't simply have more stuff attached. (The exception is the accessory outputs, but these are not perm live).

With the unilink, you only need a couple of wires to the unilink switch, a 999 (or 999_ARR) live to the grill/screens then a power and ground. I would expect to need 8 to 10 wires, maybe 10mm total diameter max once twisted. The FL2 has more than enough space to accommodate this along the main harness.

Like you say, local grounds are best, there are a couple in the front glove box area (possibly one under the carpet on the A-pillar). My preference is to feed each section with a live feed (so separate live feed for grill and screen) to keep the current and heat down when mixing with other looms. Remember while they are only LED, they are pretty powerful, most actually step up to 24v to get the brightness out, and running for hours at a time the wiring can get rather warm if setup wrong.

Front to rear wires are easy to run along the existing main harness. On FL2/Volvo stuff I tend to run inside the cable guides where possible. On the FL2 I would strongly recommend taking the front passenger seat out, its quick to do and saves a huge amount of cursing!

Hope that helps as a starter for 10.

That's fantastic thanks so much for your advice I really appreciate it (have a virtual pint on me). Your reply doesn't leave me with anything else to ask so just need to wait for the rain to stop and get the job done Will post an update when I can. Thanks again.

A list of trim panel clips here (in red text).
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic33026-53.html
The 2 plastic hooks, one on either side of the boot, turn a quarter turn anticlockwise to then pull out. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Brilliant thank you - managed to get most of the trim panels off today and only broken a couple of clips so far! The rain is on so think that's me on hold for the rest of the day..

Vanny wrote:

Hi Jamie,

I install the Unilink system on multiple cars during the course of the year, i'm not sure how different it is to a micro link. If i was putting the kit on an FL2 the interface box would go in the boot. Either behind the left hand trim panel or in the wheel well under the Rear Junction Box (RJB). Find a perm live feed in the white/blue fuse carrier in the rear junction box.

I would NOT take a feed from the fusebox behind the glove box as A) this is not a fusebox but a big box of electronic switches and relays B) it doesn't like unexpected loads C) most of the outputs have a current limitation and can't simply have more stuff attached. (The exception is the accessory outputs, but these are not perm live).

With the unilink, you only need a couple of wires to the unilink switch, a 999 (or 999_ARR) live to the grill/screens then a power and ground. I would expect to need 8 to 10 wires, maybe 10mm total diameter max once twisted. The FL2 has more than enough space to accommodate this along the main harness.

Like you say, local grounds are best, there are a couple in the front glove box area (possibly one under the carpet on the A-pillar). My preference is to feed each section with a live feed (so separate live feed for grill and screen) to keep the current and heat down when mixing with other looms. Remember while they are only LED, they are pretty powerful, most actually step up to 24v to get the brightness out, and running for hours at a time the wiring can get rather warm if setup wrong.

Front to rear wires are easy to run along the existing main harness. On FL2/Volvo stuff I tend to run inside the cable guides where possible. On the FL2 I would strongly recommend taking the front passenger seat out, its quick to do and saves a huge amount of cursing!

Hope that helps as a starter for 10.

I didn't get too far without a daft question.. I've managed to get the trim panels up, Px seat out, carpet pulled back and have found the main wiring loom that I'm going to follow - so far so good.

When you are installing systems you mentioned you would take a live feed for each section - would you take each feed separately from the fuse box or do you run a fused cable directly from the battery to an accessory fuse block then take each feed from that? As I understand you at the moment I am planning on using 6 "add-a-circuit" fused piggybacks (grill/dash/lightbar/rear reds/HL flash/controller) to get my live feeds and looks quite tight for space so wanted to clarify that was what you meant.

Thanks again for your help, quickly realising I couldn't have done it without your input!

you have a PM with pics