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Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Copper slip on brake rotors - long term affect on discs?
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AndyPP



Member Since: 20 Jun 2017
Location: South Yorkshire
Posts: 99

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Santorini Black
Copper slip on brake rotors - long term affect on discs?

I changed my front brakes at least a year ago at around 65 / 70 k. did both pads and rotors with standard brembo parts from GSF. I put too much copper slip on when re-assembling and it got on the discs and coated the pads. They got very hot a couple of times trying to bed them in before realising what I'd done.

ended up replacing the pads and cleaning the discs up with very strong TFR concentrate. The brakes have been working OK for the last year or so, but not great when stopping from high speed.

I've noticed that there is no lip on the rotors at all after about 15 - 20k miles on these rotors. Surely they should be wearing a bit at that milage?

I'm wondering if I've 'burnished' some of the super high temp coppa er slip into the disc surface, if that's even possible. I did clean them really well and they seems to be totally dry when I re-built the brakes. Is that even possible or should any light grease residue burn off the rotor under normal use?

Post #390548 28th Apr 2020 6:15 pm
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Delboy



Member Since: 31 Aug 2017
Location: Norwich
Posts: 108

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Zermatt Silver

My 2p worth, if there’s even the slightest chance you’ve contaminated the brake components you need to change them.
ASAP by the sounds of it. Derek Hill
2009 FL2 HSE TD4 Auto

Post #390551 28th Apr 2020 8:33 pm
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dunkley201



Member Since: 09 Jul 2011
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 2739

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

Brake cleaner, IPA or Trichlorethylene (if you can still get it). TFR not a proper degreaser. Change them!

Years ago, I used to use Ardrox cleaner! Where was that from? Whistle

Bob 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)


Last edited by dunkley201 on 29th Apr 2020 6:14 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Post #390585 29th Apr 2020 1:29 pm
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AndyPP



Member Since: 20 Jun 2017
Location: South Yorkshire
Posts: 99

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Santorini Black

cheers. I've got some new yellow stuff pads to go on, to hopefully manage heat a bit better. May be a good time to do a big disc upgrade with the v6 or xc70 discs. Plenty of time to do it 🤣

Post #390594 29th Apr 2020 5:26 pm
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jules



Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 5062

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

Brake grease seems to be a mine field of opinions and its not easy to find independent reviews.

eg https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic....;t=1746439

There are those that say CopperSlip is a complete no-no for several reasons and there are those that still use it.

Personally I changed to Mintex Ceratec when I found some pin sliders clogged with what appeared to be dried out Copperslip, and was subsequently informed that Copperslip is not really a lubricant but is primarily an anti-seize product designed to eliminate corrosion between threads etc

With all these products, you have to use them very sparingly - Copperslip seems to ooze its base oil when it gets hot.

A tube of Ceratec last years. Jules

Post #390615 30th Apr 2020 7:20 am
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jules



Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 5062

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

AndyPP wrote:
cheers. I've got some new yellow stuff pads to go on, to hopefully manage heat a bit better. May be a good time to do a big disc upgrade with the v6 or xc70 discs. Plenty of time to do it 🤣


Ive not found the FL2 OEM pads insufficient in any way. However, in the past, I upgraded my BMW brakes with Tarox pads -excellent and reasonable priced. Might be useful in the future if you go big brakes.

Do you use a brake pad bedding in procedure?

https://brakeperformance.com/bedding-in-rotors.php Jules

Post #390616 30th Apr 2020 7:29 am
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dorsetfreelander



Member Since: 20 Jul 2013
Location: Dorset
Posts: 4354

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 XS Auto Loire Blue

I have always used copper grease very sparingly on wheel nuts, any sliding bits of the brake system, the rear side of pads and where alloy wheels contact the hub. You don't need much, my tin of grease is about 40 years old and at current rate of use will see me though. The lady next door had a puncture on her drive a few months ago and the alloys were seized on so badly that it took a piece of wood and lump hammer to get the wheel off and this on a 15 reg car. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Post #390625 30th Apr 2020 9:06 am
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jules



Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 5062

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

Dorsetfreelander: I use Copperslip for the wheels/nuts too. Just use Ceratec for the brakes as those parts need to move.

Digressing I know, but it was suggested to me that pouring boiling water onto the alloy wheel hub causes differential expansion and breaks the adhesion between alloy and steel hub. Never tried it though. Jules

Post #390626 30th Apr 2020 9:13 am
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Boxbrownie



Member Since: 17 Mar 2019
Location: Looe
Posts: 2053

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 i6 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

dorsetfreelander wrote:
I have always used copper grease very sparingly on wheel nuts, any sliding bits of the brake system, the rear side of pads and where alloy wheels contact the hub. You don't need much, my tin of grease is about 40 years old and at current rate of use will see me though. The lady next door had a puncture on her drive a few months ago and the alloys were seized on so badly that it took a piece of wood and lump hammer to get the wheel off and this on a 15 reg car.


Thumbs Up

Also Copaslip should not ooze grease when hot it has a upper range of over 1000 deg C.......you must have been at LeMans I guess? Rolling with laughter Regards

David

Lovely i6 has now gone, but not me......

Please let me know if anything in my post offends you, as I may wish to offend you again......

Post #390627 30th Apr 2020 9:22 am
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Boxbrownie



Member Since: 17 Mar 2019
Location: Looe
Posts: 2053

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 i6 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

jules wrote:

Digressing I know, but it was suggested to me that pouring boiling water onto the alloy wheel hub causes differential expansion and breaks the adhesion between alloy and steel hub. Never tried it though.


Easiest way to free up locked alloys, is loosen all the nuts (don’t take any off!) and move the car a little a foot or so and brake hard....usually does the job......the nuts need only loose enough to give some play at the wheel nut cone seating, so just a few turns if that. Regards

David

Lovely i6 has now gone, but not me......

Please let me know if anything in my post offends you, as I may wish to offend you again......

Post #390628 30th Apr 2020 9:25 am
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jules



Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 5062

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

Except the car is usually up on the jack with all the nuts off before you discover it wont budge. But If no boiling kettle handy that obviously works. Very Happy Jules

Post #390633 30th Apr 2020 9:56 am
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Bobupndown



Member Since: 26 Dec 2014
Location: Upside down behind the TV!
Posts: 2816

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 GS Auto Orkney Grey

A tyre fitter broke a deadblow hammer and had to resort to a sledge hammer to remove the front wheels of my Disco 2 when it first needed replacement tyres in my ownership, said hed never seen anything like it.
I too use copperslip in brake assembly (sparingly) and have done for years with no ill effects, my tin which must be pushing 20 years old is nearly done, I'll have to get a replacement in the next couple of years! Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Post #390636 30th Apr 2020 10:49 am
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MotionInc



Member Since: 17 Jun 2019
Location: North America
Posts: 1358

Canada 2008 LR2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

I simple will not use anti-seize on my nutz! Never gonna happen but you can clean the mating surfaces! AFAIK, it could throw off wheel torque values...... Shocked

However, with annual Canadian winters, wheels are usually changed at least twice a year.

Ceratec is really good stuff! I even use Liqui Moly Ceratec in my engines.

Post #390651 30th Apr 2020 1:38 pm
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AndyPP



Member Since: 20 Jun 2017
Location: South Yorkshire
Posts: 99

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Santorini Black

I put a bit of coppa slip on the mating surface of the alloy wheel and where the rotor sits against the hub. Just put too much on. Now I put some on rhe inner wheel surface and wipe off with a cloth so there is just a residue left. It seems to help with corrosion / seizing. Same for the bolts.

Post #390822 5th May 2020 7:57 pm
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Boxbrownie



Member Since: 17 Mar 2019
Location: Looe
Posts: 2053

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 i6 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

Andy is correct, smear Copaslip on the mating surface of the wheel and it’ll not seize.

Don’t put any anti seize on the wheel bolt threads, they stay tight because they are effectively “seized” Wink Regards

David

Lovely i6 has now gone, but not me......

Please let me know if anything in my post offends you, as I may wish to offend you again......

Post #390823 5th May 2020 8:33 pm
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