Hi Folks,
Just registered here and considering a Freelander 2 purchase.

First, a bit of background (apologies if this is a bit long winded):
Over 30 years+ I've re-chassis'd 3 x S3 Landies, owned a S2 Disco (loved it but sadly the Mrs wasn't a fan) and currently own a P38 RR 4.0lt V8 (as a weekend runabout, although she's been off the road since Dec when the MOT ran out).

Fair to say, I know my way around a box of tools and fully understand the implications of owning and running a vehicle with the green oval badge - in fact, you could say I'm a Landrover fanatic/nutcase!.

I have, however, come to the conclusion that running the Rangie has become unsustainable - I need a tow vehicle but I also have been running a Skoda Superb estate as my daily - mainly due to me being 6'5" and Son being 6'8".
He has passed his test and should be off to uni/college in September so I'm looking to rationalise the fleet.

I have taken a 2009 TD4 F2 for a test drive and really love it. Although we live in the middle of nowhere, I don't really need 4x4 but the extra ground clearance is a must (Skoda is pants!). I have been looking at the ED4 which seems to offer 90% of the full ownership experience if you don't need to go off road. Now here's the rub - having the Rangie has somewhat spoiled me to the finer things (yes, even in a P38!) so leather seats, arm rests etc are essential. I also really love the auto in the Rangie - real effortless class. All ED4s are manual from what I can establish so....

Has anyone come across anyone who has converted an SD4 to 2wd when the rear diff has packed up?

I appreciate that might seem like the crime of the century but for me it would give max power and refinement but increased benefit of fuel economy and no further concerns about the rear drive train...

Don't want to offend anyone but I've not been able to find any info about doing this to an SD4. Plenty seem to have done it to the FL1 but to me this would deliver a great road vehicle. With a set of decent all year tyres I reckon it would still be pretty capable.

Cheers all

You are much better off with 4wd with all the electronics for stability control on wet city roads.

Get an Auto.

OH & you can throw out the tools unless you are adding toys! Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Would you not achieve any 2WD benefits (if these are are worthwhile to you) by simply by taking out the Haldex fuse? You then have the full 4WD available very simply when you need it, by putting the fuse back.

But I would have thought Norfolk was like what I’ve sometimes experienced in the north-east corner of Aberdeenshire, where in winter you want to be able to flick in and out of snow mode as conditions change during a journey. It makes a huge difference to traction and cornering on cold, slightly snowy roads and I wouldn’t be without it! 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

Thanks for the replies - given the electricery involved, I agree that it probably makes sense to stick with the SD4 auto with full functioning 4x4. Just thought it might be an interesting concept given the existence already of the 2wd ED4.

I'll keep you posted

The Sd4 is brilliant and in most situations its running 90% front wheel drive bias, sending additional power rearwards when starting off from standstill and at other times when required. I worried that the Freelander 2 might struggle as a tow car coming from a Td5 Disco 2 but I have to say in most respects its superior, apart from the lower kerb weight and towing weight, 2 ton instead of 3.5 ton. I seem to average 33 mpg with mine, about 37 on a long motorway run.
I'd say you'll not be disappointed if you buy one  Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

"I worried that the Freelander 2 might struggle as a tow car coming from a Td5 Disco 2 but I have to say in most respects its superior,"

Absolutely! Towing performance brilliant!  2013 SD4 SE (hers)
2013 SD4 HSE (mine)
Ex: 2008 D3 V8 HSE
EX: 2000 D2 TD5

Worms wrote:

Would you not achieve any 2WD benefits (if these are are worthwhile to you) by simply by taking out the Haldex fuse? You then have the full 4WD available very simply when you need it, by putting the fuse back.

rustyolds3 wrote:

Has anyone come across anyone who has converted an SD4 to 2wd when the rear diff has packed up?

I ran my first FL1 TD4 Auto for about 6 months with the prop shaft removed when the VCU seized, so FWD only, MPG significantly improved as did tyre wear... even with GG AT2 tyres on it still easily wheel span at lights. Austen sorted it with a recon VCU at his old premises in Cleobury Town centre.

I wouldn't like to try a FL2 SD4 Auto with its 4WD removed though... too much electronics involved and the power/torque is a lot higher than a FL1 TD4 Auto so the handling etc would be a nightmare IMO

Two wheel drive Freelander , why . Look at how 2wd ones are for sale on Autotrader , that tells a story . Miniscule fuel savings and the dreaded start stop . Sd4 everytime .

Mark 2009 FL2 TD4 SE (Sadly gone)
2007 FL2 TD4 GS (The wifes , gone after 8 great years)
2012 FL2 SD4 SPORT LE(Gone and missing it)
2015 DISCOVERY SPORT 2.2SD4 HSE (Now gone)
2014 Ford Bmax 1.0 ecoboost ( Gone but what next )
2014 Ford Focus 2.0tdci Zetec S (Gone,but what a car)
2020 Ford Fiesta ActiveX 1.0 Ecoboost
2024 Skoda Kodiaq 1.5 Tsi SEL

Stop-Start was available on later 4WD ..... TD4 models ........... TD4e. (selectable on dashboard, after start up)
.

Again, thanks. Interesting views on the ED4, I'd read that they were quite well recieved, with the circa 75kg weight saving going some way to improve performance as well as MPG.

I wasn't thinking about just removing the prop but taking off all unnecessary elements as well to achieve the same effect - only with 190 horses not 150.

I think your comments have more than answered my original query so I'll be sticking with the full fat SD4

Removing items will only give you a few metres efficiency per km. One would really need to do a lot of start stop driving every year to save enough dollars to make it worthwhile.

I've probably added 20kg of acoustic insulation to the car. To me the extra quality of ride is worth any extra cost of fuel. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

...and in my experience the start/stop will only actually kick-in a couple of times a year...which is not enough for me to learn not to panic and kick it back into life!  2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel