Had a blanking plate in my 07 but removed for an MOT just in case. A few days later the car would start but then choke up and stall trying to pull away. Fault codes throw up P042E, P042F and C0200. Thought it was probably stalling due to the EGR valve being stuck open and not allowing enough oxygen to enter the engine, so stuck the EGR blanking plate back in to test and managed to pull away and drive.

Even though it could drive the computer was still chucking up those same fault codes and intermittently reducing the power output of the engine along with bringing up the engine light. I decided I probably needed to replace the EGR valve as it had probably failed or at least been extremely clogged up.

After looking on here there wasn't much to go on with removing the valve. Here is a step by step on how I went about removing the EGR valve on cooler. (Please forgive me, I'm not sure on all the technical terms for the different components)

1. Removed black engine cover (two 10mm socket bolts at the top front and one nut on the back right attaching to black ducting from the airbox).
2. Removed airbox and ducting going across on top of the engine. The box itself is on rubber grommet type mounts. simply wiggle upwards to remove. The ducting has two jubilee clips I undid, one on the left of the engine and a second one attaching a smaller tube to the ducting towards the right of the engine. This whole assembly can then be removed.
3.Now remove the scuttle. The black piece up plastic that goes from the windscreen to under the bonnet. You will need to remove the wiper arms.
4. Removed the secondary bulkhead. This is the piece of metal touching the back of the engine with black protective blanket on it. Nasty stuff, should wear a dust mask. The secondary bulkhead has two socket head bolts to undo down the left hand side and two or three to undo down the right hand side. A couple of the bolts are hidden behind the blanket. Not to be confused with the plastic nuts that hold the blanket onto the bulkhead. Once unbolted the secondary bulkhead should with a bit of a wiggle lift up and can be lifted up and to the left a little to get it out.
5. Now you can see the back of the EGR valve and cooler.
6. Remove the silver pipe going from the front of the engine (inlet) across the top and to the EGR valve. This pipe has a braided sheath covering it. There are 5 connection points in total. two nuts at the inlet manifold. A bolt at the top of the engine. And two hex head bolts holding it to the EGR valve.
7. Next the coolant needs to be drained.
8. Once done you can now disconnect all the pipes going into the EGR cooler and valve. there are two on the left hand side of the assembly. One is the exaust gas inlet going in the end of the cooler and behind this is the coolant inlet. There is another pipe to the right slightly going out the back. This is the coolant outlet.
9. Now remove all the bolts on the cooler and valve. There are 4. One on the top left of the cooler, two on the top middle of the valve and one underneath the valve. A little mirror helps. These are too bad to get to.
10. Make sure to unplug the EGR valve at the back on the right hand side.
11. This whole assembly should now be loose and with a bit of manipulation should come out the top of the engine.

Hope this helps anyone else attempting this

Just read your post, very interesting and informative.
I will use this as a reference later in the year when I intend to take the egr off my car for inspection.
It's good to see some people using this forum for its intended purpose and not as a type of 'Facebook' page.

Keep up the good work and thanks again.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Nice write-up and good future reference. Thank you! 2013 SD4 SE (hers)
2013 SD4 HSE (mine)
Ex: 2008 D3 V8 HSE
EX: 2000 D2 TD5

Nice write up! It's been on my list of things to do for a while now,

How long do you think it took you to remove? And can you remove the EGR valve without the cooler?

Thank you for posting. I'll be using this advice today. Haynes manual are not as detailed these days and guidance from the freelander 2 .pdf manual which is available online was not much better. I have purchased Dec 2017 edition of land rover monthly which is inline with your suggested procedure.

Just started mine.
I found that if you remove the battery and cradle it makes for easier access to the right hand fasteners on the secondary bulk head. Also makes it slightly easier to remove. Haven't completed the job as I'm trying to do the glow plugs at the same time.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

This may be of help ??



.

Keen to hear how you guys are getting on. Some photo's of the job would be

I used the above procedure to remove the EGR valve and cooler to replace the EGR cooler. I didn't take any photos. I also removed the plastic 'rocker cover' which dramatically improved access for the job. Bolts on the bottom of the EGR valve were still difficult to find/access. I found them using a combination of touch, trial and error, but mainly using an inspection mirror and torch. Once it was apart, the job of putting it back together was a breeze albeit not a job I would be eager to do again! Thank you for posting the above procedure and thank you to Sperly for convincing me that replacement would address my issue. I had lost hope following undertaking a pressure test but replacement of EGR cooler appears to have solved my problem.

How different is the job of removing the EGR and cooler on a 2014 SD4 ? Jules

Can you remove the valve without the cooler? Or do they come out as one?

Access is the issue. The EGR cooler and valve are bolted together with four bolts. The EGR cooler and valve is connected to the rear of the block by a series of bolts / nuts onto set pins. Its easier to remove the two as a unit and separate once it has been removed. 2000 Discovery 2 TD5
2002 Freelander Commercial TD4
2003 Freelander Commercial TD4
2010 Freelander 2

Cool - thanks mate!

Hi, many thanks for posting details on EGR removal on the 2.2 Freelander, Excellent, concise and brief, Just about to sort mine out as still running rough on initial start up, (like a bag of nails)even after renewing all four Bosch exchange injectors, and the induction valve where the gears had almost collapsed and rattling there heads off.
Purchased , in 2020, it's also had a reconditioned differential, new Haldex unit, full timing belt kit, complete service with all oils changed, and finally today a complete new clutch, flywheel , slave cylinder.
I purchased this car as a long life lover of Landrover's, with an ownership history from Series 1, 2, 2A, Defender's and thought this new (to me)Freelander 2 would be great in my retirement, it looks immaculate, but i was so wrong, it spends more time in my garage for repairs at 109000, this surely should not be the way our Landrover Mark should be going.
PLEASE PLEASE LANDROVER, START COMPETING AND GETTING SERIOUS RELIABILTY SCORES ON all your range as i fear you are loosing many potential customers both here in the UK and on our Export markets
WE deserve to be purchasing reliable British brands as Landrover used to be in times gone by!

Welcome Motalink
Sorry to hear you've been so busy with your new acquisition.

I, personally, think it's fair to say that the FL2 is the most reliable "modern" Landrover.
Just ignore the "sealed for life" side of the JLR servicing schedules and treat it more like an old Landrover with changing of all lubes and filters. I think failure to service the PTU, gearbox, Haldex and rear diff is a major factor in their untimely failure in some vehicles. Jules