This is a useful thread - mine does exactly the same and I had assumed it was a "feature". I didn't know about the double press but that doesn't unlock it either.

TBH it's not really a problem but will fit a new switch when time allows. Ian.
2013 LR2 SD4 XS
1982 Moto Guzzi V50
1952 Norton ES2

Explanation of why the switch fails and how it replace it .
 Every time I learn something new,something old gets pushed out of my brain?

Just as a point of note - before you change the switch, BE SURE to disconnect the battery of the vehicle.

The rear number plate lamps are driven by FET's, and if you try and connect them live! then you run the risk of them failing. This is DEFINATELY the case on facelift MY13>, I can't speak for anything earlier.

Last edited by Sperly on 13th Mar 2020 6:47 pm. Edited 1 time in total

^^^^^Did not disco my battery when I did my switch but I do have a 2008 si6, NA model. Still good advice to pull the fuse or disco the battery however, saves a potential problem.

UPDATE from OP

Nothing to do with the microswitch - it was the battery/software glitch after all.

After not being used during Covid-19 lockdown the battery ran down. I removed it and put in on charge overnight. Reconnected the fully-charged battery, pressed the keyfob out of interest and viola - the boot unlocked! Now using a CTEK every few days to keep the battery conditioned (without having to remove it) and boot still working fine.

Apparently this often happens on Range Rovers unless the battery is in top condition and it was suggested to me right at the beginning. But local garage discharge test reckoned the battery was fine - clearly it was not fine enough! Unless just disconnecting and reconnecting the battery cleared a software glitch.

As the recommendations on here were to disconnect the battery before changing the microswitch, I'm wondering if there was actually no need to change the microswitch and it was just the act of disconnecting and re-connecting the battery which corrected the fault.

Anyway, might be worth just disconnecting the battery for a few hours and re-connecting before buying a new microswitch.

Thanks for the update, it is always interesting to find out what actually cured fault, it keeps the site useful to us all. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)