My radio and sat nav keeps turning off for a second and then back on for some unknown reason.

Welshy wrote:

Update just fitted a Banner 110 battery, fitted no problems, gave it a protective jacket, as we live in the wilds, any little helps. Will see how this goes each day, i will test the voltage every morning. the battery that came off was a Tanya Enduroline+ 096-12v- 78ah-740A.
the battery i now have is a Banner Starting Bull 110-12v-80ah-660a

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Thanks SYFL2 i have not had any battery problems yet, keeping fingers crossed

Doesn't sound quite like the problem but it might be worth checking;

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic5890.html?highlight=plug

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic7285.html?highlight=dash

Thanks DigDil will look over weekend

Hi all in reply to one of my posts somebody mentioned using a CTEK Charger, well i have come into four NOCO G750 EU chargers, all brand new and sealed, they are with an EU Plug not UK plug, Warranty will still apply direct with NOCO, I will be putting them on fleabay on monday for £27 Delivered, i will do them on here of £25 Delivered if anybody interested, not a lot of difference but i paid close to that price for them



Welshy

DigDil wrote:

Doesn't sound quite like the problem but it might be worth checking;

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic5890.html?highlight=plug

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic7285.html?highlight=dash

Thank you very much p_gill i will check this out tomorrow

Welshy,

For my Freelander 2 (or LR2 as it is market here) the starting is very reliable 99% of the time.

The exception is every 4 years the battery capacity gets low enough that I suffer starting problems.

My recommendation is to change the battery first if starting problems are encountered.

And you already did.


A few things to keep in mind.

1. the Freel2 has a lot of modules

2. if the battery voltage dips low enough when starting then one on the modules may latch up and drain the battery after the vehicle is shut down.

3. to unlatch the module I just remove the Battery + lead and let the Voltage of all the modules drop to Zero Volts and I charge the battery with the leads disconnected.

4. then I reattach the Battery + lead and the starting problems are gone


Additional things to consider

I. instead of jumping into the vehicle and pressing the brake (and clutch if you have a manual) and pressing the start button, try turning on the vehicle first to give the modules time to boot

II. Get in the vehicle but don't touch the brake or clutch, press and hold the start/stop button for 2 seconds, the radio should power on.

III. Now press the brake/clutch and press the start button again

IV. the Freel2 should start


Measurements that you may want to make to confirm that everything is working correctly.

A. Measure the voltage dip at the battery with the engine cranking

A1. If the Voltage dip is large then measure to voltage drop on all of the cables (B+, B- )

B. Measure the Voltage at the battery with the engine at Idle

B1. Turn on the seat heaters and check the voltage
B2. Turn on the rear defroster and check the voltage
B3. Turn on the headlights and check the voltage
B4. Turn on the defroster for the front windscreen and check the voltage

If the charging system can keep the voltage at 13.5 Volts or higher with everything listed turned on then the charging system is working very well.

Summary: a good battery and a well functioning charging system should give you excellent results.


The Freelander 2 is an excellent vehicle and I love mine but as a friend of mine likes to say "She will not suffer fools"

Take care

Paul

Last edited by p_gill on 21st Jan 2020 3:20 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Paul Brilliant thank you, i have not had chance to check yet due to bad weather but i am chomping at the bit lol

thank you again. its much appreciated

Here are my results for the voltage at idle with turning on the items I listed above

OK, help requested please. I've read this thread, and others, about starting problems and battery issues but having difficulty identifying exact problem.

If I leave car for couple of days it will refuse to start. Just lots of clicking and modules resetting on dash. I have a Li-ion booster that usually gets me started.

So, what have I done:
- added second earth strap. still get problem
- disconnected battery and hard reset
- charged battery disconnected (CTEC charger). After charge voltage 12.69v
- left disconnected overnight. retested voltage 12.34v
- reconnected battery. voltage 12.13v

If I sit in car listening to radio, the car will go to low voltage mode after about 7 to 10 mins with voltage at 11.5v

Car is charging at 14.3v, depending what switched on, but usually over 14v

Beginning to suspect battery but only 2 years old and has 4 year warranty

Interestingly, checked voltage on original battery swapped at 8 years but sat in shed for two years, and is still 12.2v.
Thinking of charging and swapping this back to prove issue, but I was having some similar issues which is why it was changed

Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
Do I have battery problem or voltage drain issue? Andy
Freelander2 HSE (59 Plate, MY10 spec)

^^^Your battery is on it's way out, likely a bad cell if it's a wet cell. After full charge and sitting disconnected for 24 hours, it should still read above 12.66 volts even in sub zero temps.

A battery should never drop below 12.4 volts at rest for prolonged periods as this leads to sulfation.

New battery, Bosch this time. All now ok.

Seems the Varta battery I put on 2 years ago is faulty as not holding full charge when not connected to car. Drops from 12.76v after full charge to 12.36v or less overnight without load connected. Good job has 4 year warranty. Returned to Tayna batterys for testing and probable refund. Andy
Freelander2 HSE (59 Plate, MY10 spec)

I just bought a 2009 td4 with the battery drain problem that the former owner put in to a local auto electrician who said it was the radio and had disconnected the radio leads behind the unit
The battery drain problem was still there so I have reconnected the radio and will start to try and find the problem
I had a range rover vogue bought new about fifteen years ago and this vehicle had the same problem and was in and out the LR dealership many times which was a real pain as they are 120 miles from me
After many hours sat at airports, hotels, car parks etc waiting for recovery due to this annoying isdue I decided to try to fibd tge fault myself as the dealership were unable to find it
After many hours online and trying various things I cane across a message on a USA forum about a relay hidden under the dashboard that this person had replaced and it had cured the problem
The part was about £20 so I thought it was worth a try and there were instructions on the message how to remove and replace it by feel as it was right up under the dash
I got the part which was a relay with black plastic infill and a few connectors not sure now what it was for or what it was called
I took took old one out which when inspected had a wide crack in the plastic type stuff they set the relay in so looked like it had been overheating and put in the new one following the by feel instructions
Hey presto the battery drain issue that had haunted me for years and spoilt the pleasure of owning a brand new range rover was gone.
The reason for this long post is I wonder if tye FL2 might share this type of relay with the range rover ?