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Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Accessories required to fit a towbar |
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jules Member Since: 13 Dec 2007 Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire Posts: 5056 |
Your JLR dealership should be able to look up using your VIN to indicate which wiring accessory you need for your car.
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29th Feb 2020 11:45 pm |
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jules Member Since: 13 Dec 2007 Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire Posts: 5056 |
For example Island 4x4 indicate 4 different OEM wiring looms (inc relays & fuses as required)
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29th Feb 2020 11:49 pm |
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Largered Member Since: 10 Jul 2016 Location: UK Posts: 1978 |
This is a youtube video of how to fit the bar, not electrics.
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29th Feb 2020 11:59 pm |
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Badger51 Member Since: 01 Mar 2014 Location: Coffs Harbour Posts: 966 |
You need to find a pre facelift wreck with genuine LR wiring (aftermarket is often more of a pain to remove), it will be easy enough to remove, as long as it hasn't been cut etc & make sure you get all of it, including the module & the steel mounting tray + nuts etc. The electrics will work (as far as I'm aware, mine do & I haven't got around to editing the CCF yet) without being activated in the CCF but the dash warning won't work & the reverse sensors will still be active! Cheers, Nick (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal. 171037Km as of 09/05/22 Superchips Bluefin Flash Nanocom Evo II (also sold) |
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1st Mar 2020 7:00 am |
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Simon J Member Since: 27 Jul 2019 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 709 |
I fitted a tow bar plus electrics to my 2008 FL2 last year so my experience might help. The genuine LR cable harness is no longer listed although you can find it online at some dealers. It’s about £180 as I recall. I bought a cable harness from PF Jones for about £120 and it plugged into the appropriate sockets in the car's wiring loom. Out of the box, everything worked, apart from switching off the parking sensors, including the trailer warning light and switching off the rear fog light. As I had a Mongoose cable, plus the JLR software, it was easy to add the trailer module which solved the parking sensor issue. Whether the JLR cable harness will be as functional without adding the trailer module via software, I don’t know.
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1st Mar 2020 11:21 am |
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Simon J Member Since: 27 Jul 2019 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 709 |
You would also need to extract these fuses from the fuse box in the boot which are supplied with the cable harness.
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1st Mar 2020 11:59 am |
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Simon J Member Since: 27 Jul 2019 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 709 |
Hmmm ... that fuse diagram seems to be at odds with the one from the LR fitting instructions
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1st Mar 2020 6:26 pm |
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ozjeff62 Member Since: 28 May 2018 Location: Sydney, NSW Posts: 494 |
The two diagrams are the same, just rotated 90 degrees. MY11 SD4 SE Auto |
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2nd Mar 2020 11:33 am |
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Simon J Member Since: 27 Jul 2019 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 709 |
Doh! I hadn’t noticed that part of the box wasn’t shown in the first picture! |
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2nd Mar 2020 1:27 pm |
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Simon J Member Since: 27 Jul 2019 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 709 |
For info, fuse FA9 (15 amp) is for pin 9, constant 12v, referred to by LR as 'battery' in the trailer socket; FA11 (the square green 40 amp fuse) is for the trailer module; and FB5 (15 amp) is for pin 10, ignition switched power, referred to by LR as 'accessory feed for fridge' in the trailer socket. |
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3rd Mar 2020 5:57 pm |
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kris-p Member Since: 12 Nov 2015 Location: VIC Posts: 120 |
Thanks everyone for comments, and thanks heaps to Simon for a great info! That's exactly what I was looking for.
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7th Mar 2020 4:41 am |
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