Hi, the tailgate pops open on my fl2 2007, the switch seems to be done in.
When i disconnect the plug on the right, with the red tab, it stops malfunctioning and works perfectly. I thought this was the link to the numberplate light only?
With this in mind do I need a new swich/cable thing or is there another way round (and dont say drive int he day!)

Many thanks
Paul

Can anyone help, do I need a new cable thing or is there another way round it that Im missing/
many thanks
Paul

The tailgate switch in the boot handle is connected to the same earth circuit as the number plate light within the wiring, the unwanted tailgate release fault usually occurs as a result of the switch going short circuit internally, so I'm pretty sure you'll need to replace the switch/cable.

That's not something I have come across but as the switch is all built together with the number plate lights and the boot switch I would be inclined to agree with Clive. Let us know how you get on.

Mine did this, bought a new tailgate switch and of course it had stopped doing it by the time the switch arrived. Naturally I haven't fitted it yet. Started doing it again this week 🙄 Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

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CliveS wrote:

The tailgate switch in the boot handle is connected to the same earth circuit as the number plate light within the wiring, the unwanted tailgate release fault usually occurs as a result of the switch going short circuit internally, so I'm pretty sure you'll need to replace the switch/cable.

I think there’s a thread showing how the latch can fill with water causing corrosion and how to replace the micro switch if it faulty. There not much else to this latch really.

I think I paid £14 for a replacement off ebay when mine stop unlocking. It only took about 20 minutes to replace it…..sometimes it not worth missing about repair parts.

The short usually occurs within the switch itself, it's just a little micro switch and water gets inside the rubber cover and causes an electrical leakage rather than a dead short and generally intermittent in nature, although it gets worse with time.

It also corrodes and weakens the internal alloy lever that connects the rubber bit to the switch plunger, the lever can also break and cause the switch to stop working altogether.

The switch connects to an input of the Central Electronic Module, it grounds the input when closed but the module requires (sinks) very little current to operate so a relatively small leakage can render that input permanently on, which again makes it appear that the switch is doing nothing.