Hi can anyone advise please....my car has had a sudden engine stop the other day, rolled to standstill and restarted and runs fine, Now Ive seen this before so Ive changed the Crank sensor at bottom pully as DTC recorded was ( P0335.) Crankshaft position sensor.... job done cleared dtc fault with reader, car running fine as it was before to be honest no symptoms to speak....any way thought i would just check ecu again see if any dtc have been recorded since ..and low an behold there again dtc P0335 but car runs fine and ive had no sudden engine stops ...so I dont understand why the dtc is still registering this fault ?? ive cleared it twice and it comes back at restart ??????? Any help please !!

Genuine Part ? 
Hung like Einstein, smart as a horse.

I have just sat down to see if anyone has experienced this - lo and behold today's first thread.
My Freelander 2, 2010 model TD4 with 128k on the clock, suddenly started stalling soon after starting. The first time, engine was warm, it started normally, put it in reverse, and it stalled within 3 secs. It started normally after removing the key fob and then following normal starting procedure.
A week later, I pulled out of the garage 1st thing in the morning with engine cold, reversed, drove out and stopped at the gate 100 m away. As the car stopped, it stalled again. It started again instantly after a 're-boot'. It happened again this morning, identically to the second time, same conditions, same place. Restarted normally with no symptoms, running smooth as a baby.
The diagnostics did not say it was the crank position sensor. Something about glow plugs and something else - but I think these were stored messages.
So now I am uneasy - especially being on a long trip far away in the sticks.
Advise please?

OP - make sure the area around where the CPS fits is clean as it is known for them to get filthy down there. Also, the wire to it is tiny and poorly protected - check for chaffing etc. FL2 HSE Auto Galway Green
Evoque SD4 Auto Blue.
FL1 HSE TD4 Manual Black - Gone.
RR Classic V8 EFI - Gone

No not genuine part but only a basic sensor no program needed just plug an play so should not make a difference ..well I would have thought that but i suppose ya never now

AndreO wrote:

I have just sat down to see if anyone has experienced this - lo and behold today's first thread.
My Freelander 2, 2010 model TD4 with 128k on the clock, suddenly started stalling soon after starting. The first time, engine was warm, it started normally, put it in reverse, and it stalled within 3 secs. It started normally after removing the key fob and then following normal starting procedure.
A week later, I pulled out of the garage 1st thing in the morning with engine cold, reversed, drove out and stopped at the gate 100 m away. As the car stopped, it stalled again. It started again instantly after a 're-boot'. It happened again this morning, identically to the second time, same conditions, same place. Restarted normally with no symptoms, running smooth as a baby.
The diagnostics did not say it was the crank position sensor. Something about glow plugs and something else - but I think these were stored messages.
So now I am uneasy - especially being on a long trip far away in the sticks.
Advise please?

shiggsy wrote:

Genuine Part ?

Couple of quotes from Freel2 for you...

"As a quick relatively cheap test try another sensor. As part of my preventative maintenance I changed mine with one off e bay. it didn't work so I put my old one back on and she fired up. I have since replaced it with a Valeo one."


"ok guys update , the crank sensor was not land rover or bosch etc, ....
The garage rang to say there diagnostics is saying crank sensor and another code,
so they are ordering a new gen crank sensor and will update me tomorrow.
….
Ok an update,car now running fine it turned out to be the crank sensor (�70 plus vat??).
....So lesson learnt, always fit LR parts not aftermarket when electronics are concerned."


"Word of advice though, get a proper OEM sensor and not a cheap aftermarket one. Often over looked is the reluctor ring that the crank sensor interacts with although if this is damaged the fault is more constant in nature. "


"Just a note of caution, Reading a LR (LRO?) mag this weekend, and they had a section on changing the crank sensor on the FL2. Final footnote was a warning that there are several options for the crank sensor, they all fit, but are different ie number of pins or same number of pins but in a different order." 
Hung like Einstein, smart as a horse.

Ditto for that Shiggsy
the biggest problems with cars now days is the horrendous quality of cheap parts makes repair 3-4 times more expensive.
Correct diagnosis first time every-time and genuine replacement parts is essential.
I'm forever diagnosing cars in a dire state that have had google warriors and ebay parts and have got themselves in a right pickle!
Not so long ago I had a vehicle that had been attended to by 6 different " so called specialist " and had 4 brand-new parts fitted from a well known auction site.
All four parts were faulty and the diagnosis by the previous 6 techs over several weeks were all widely wrong !
a simple £200 quid repair ended up costing the poor chap over £2800 in labour and parts. Jaguar x-type sport gone
Jaguar x-type 2.2d sport one of my best cars ever sadly gone
Freelander 2 GS auto 2008 most unreliable ever ! gladly gone
Freelander 2 GS manual 2013 only time will tell !

shiggsy wrote:

Couple of quotes from Freel2 for you...

"As a quick relatively cheap test try another sensor. As part of my preventative maintenance I changed mine with one off e bay. it didn't work so I put my old one back on and she fired up. I have since replaced it with a Valeo one."


"ok guys update , the crank sensor was not land rover or bosch etc, ....
The garage rang to say there diagnostics is saying crank sensor and another code,
so they are ordering a new gen crank sensor and will update me tomorrow.
….
Ok an update,car now running fine it turned out to be the crank sensor (�70 plus vat??).
....So lesson learnt, always fit LR parts not aftermarket when electronics are concerned."


"Word of advice though, get a proper OEM sensor and not a cheap aftermarket one. Often over looked is the reluctor ring that the crank sensor interacts with although if this is damaged the fault is more constant in nature. "


"Just a note of caution, Reading a LR (LRO?) mag this weekend, and they had a section on changing the crank sensor on the FL2. Final footnote was a warning that there are several options for the crank sensor, they all fit, but are different ie number of pins or same number of pins but in a different order."

Depends on Vin number see links below.

Speed sensor link
http://new.lrcat.com/#!/12117/129249/129250/10351/129296

Speed sensor ring
http://new.lrcat.com/#!/12111/57488/58290/4681/58303

could not seem to find them on links ??

I can not find on the links either ?