I’m struggling to find the left rear axle nut size and torque on a 2009 LR2. I read on this forum the nut size was 31mm, but that wasn’t correct. I bought a 31mm axle nut socket and it doesn’t fit. I’ve got a bad wheel bearing, second time in a year and a half, and I suspect the nut wasn’t torqued to spec causing damage to the bearing. The garage that did the work also installed my parking brake wrong causing it to rattle. I didn’t notice the bearing noise until I removed both parking brake shoes from that wheel. I’ve struggled to find anyone reputable in my area to help with this issue, so I bought an entire knuckle assembly with the bearing installed so I’m just going to swap out the knuckles myself.

Hi,

The nut requires a 32mm socket, preferably one with a 3/4" square drive as some 1/2" might break with the torque transferred. I do not remember the exact tightening torque, but it is somewhere around 350Nm, a lot more than the range of conventional torque wrenches. I did some calculations on this and found that applying my body weight of 70Kg to the end of my 3/4" breaker bar would generate a torque close to the specified one. Have done this several times with great result. The manual states that the nut should be replaced every time, but that has to do with the staked material at the end of the nut. Think it is OK to reuse it as long as you can stake it properly for locking purpose.

It's as follows when just doing the rear wheel bearing (i.e re-using the half-shaft):

Torque: 270 Nm

Then Torque:
Stage 1 - 330 Nm
Stage 2 - 30°
Stake the hub nut.

After the initial 270 Nm I put the wheel on and lowered to ground. FL2 HSE Auto Galway Green
Evoque SD4 Auto Blue.
FL1 HSE TD4 Manual Black - Gone.
RR Classic V8 EFI - Gone

Where did you find those values? I just looked up my Haynes manual and it states 395Nm only. I guess your values may end up around this at the end, so I guess both are more or less correct

My figures are from the Topix workshop manual but, if I recall correctly, so is your figure but in a different section!

When this anomaly was discussed on here before, I'm pretty sure it was concluded that your 395 Nm is for when the half shaft is changed for a new one and my figure is for when you are doing the wheel bearing only.

PS. Thanks for your posts on rear diff - Helped me no end when I rebuilt mine  FL2 HSE Auto Galway Green
Evoque SD4 Auto Blue.
FL1 HSE TD4 Manual Black - Gone.
RR Classic V8 EFI - Gone

Pedro wrote:

It's as follows when just doing the rear wheel bearing (i.e re-using the half-shaft):

Torque: 270 Nm

Then Torque:
Stage 1 - 330 Nm
Stage 2 - 30°
Stake the hub nut.

After the initial 270 Nm I put the wheel on and lowered to ground.