fingers crossed  Jules

i think i need it it took me ages to get the cam cover off

been at it all day but still not got the head off. Think it would be quicker to take the engine out. Just egr and manifold to do , hopefully on monday.

All my work in the past has been on classic car's hence why i am slow

Have you removed the firewall which gives a heap of better access to the back of the engine? If not, remove the soundproofing and then it is only a few bolts and it slides out. It will really help in the removal of the egr and exhaust manifold.

I will do so on monday

many thanks

If you are working solo, slow & steady is good. Good luck and keep pluggin'.

I’ll second that. I had a bit of help getting the head off mine but everything came away cleanly without any stripped nuts or bolts. Even the exhaust manifold came off easily which I had originally feared touching due to horrible experiences with older cuts where nuts and bolts were rusted and invariably seized in place.

head now off no viable damage.
used 5/30 oil mixed with 50% white spirit, with the pistons level added the same amount of oil/white spirit to each cylinder. Checked after two hours all levels the same.

outside temp 4 degrees C.

Help
any thoughts anyone

still no loss of oil/white spirit.

I calculated the compression by, comp ratio 16.6 : 1 X 14.7 which is 244 psi / 16.8 bar

as I was getting 232 on cylinders 3 and 4 that's ok it was 1 and 2 which were low but my flow test does not reflect this.

all the valves and seats look ok

Think I am going to re-con head and put it all back together.

Do the rocker arms look bent or damaged? Is the head warped at all?
Luke

will do a full inspection next.

striped the head down but unable to find anything apart a couple of what seems to be rust blemishes on the inlet valve seats. Using my engineers straight edge head not warped. In any event will lap in all valves and replace stem oil seals.

My seep test on the cylinders,

so far not drained away at all. May be best to use white spirit only as am working outside .

Have thought about a second hand engine but not to in favor of that as it would be another unknown .

Surely there has to be a leak somewhere in order to explain the differences in compression between cylinders.

Where there any marks on the piston heads to indicate valve contact ?

Could there be a leak around the injectors? - I guess they would have been subjected to extreme pressure too. Jules

Hi

What condition was the cylinder head gasket in are there any signs of blowing/leakage between cylinders 1 & 2 on the gasket?

I note that you have checked the head for distortion have you checked the cylinder block as well?

With such a discrepancy between cylinder pressures there has to be a reason. I note you have checked the pistons and cylinder bores for leakage using fluid and experienced no loss with the head off and camshafts removed (all valves in closed position) you could try pouring fluid into the valve chambers via the inlet and exhaust manifold apatures to see if the valves and valve seats are gas tight.

I looked at the head gasket and it seems ok I note what you said about the valves sealing but have already taken them out, so on re-assembly will do that. I don't think the oil/white spirit at 50-50 was wright for the temperature being around 2 degrees. So I will use only white spirit for a re-test. I am waiting for a head gasket set anyway.

I get this feeling that I have missed sum thing along the way and was to hasty in taking the head off