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Last edited by GW8IZR on 24th Nov 2019 10:08 pm. Edited 1 time in total

mmik wrote:

The Volvo part no. for Haldex oil is now 31367940. I paid £17.76 (VAT inc) for a litre.

Hi everyone I see my alan ( whoops allen key ) key ideal has gone down well.

Steve

Hi all
Just looking at Haldex fluid for my 2007 generation 3 unit.
Advanced factors do a Febi Bilstein product, 1 litre is £23.
Febi 101171 Haldex Transmission Fluid 1 Litre.
It states it complies with LAND ROVER LR054941.
This is less than half the price of the Land rover or ravenol fluid.
Has anyone used this or any recommendations please?
Any advice appreciated
Thanks



 Brgds
Jim
2007 FL2 TD4

So Im going to give this a go after having the "traction reduced" message on display.
I have ordered the filter and oil seperately (oil already arrived) and a LR002888 seal which goes between the haldex and diff. I have a couple of queries that some who have done this job may be able to answer.

1. If the car is jacked up and on axle stands with rear wheels off the ground will the diff turn in order to get at all 6 retaining bolts on the prop shaft by turning one of the rear wheels with autobox in Neutral. (I dont fancy having to physically move the car to get at the 6 bolts!).

2. Is a bearing puller required to get the large flange off the shaft to remove the haldex pump once the 24mm nut is removed or will it 'tap' off? Dont have a bearing puller but would buy one if I need it.

3. Has anyone else had problems with the flange bolts breaking when undoing them as one poster on here? That would be a nightmare scenario!

Stripping the whole haldex pack and clutches to clean it, as in photos previously on this thread is obviously the best way to ensure every surface is clean but that process seems a little daunting. I just plan on changing the main filter, cleaning the pump screen and washing any obvious dirt and gunk away with brake cleaner. I guess that's what most people have done?

I made myself a flange holding tool to keep the shaft in place while removing the flange nut today but on reading this thread in detail it seems easiest to take out the whole haldex and clamp the flange in a vice while taking off the nut! Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

I've done this 3 times, but not for a while, so here are my responses:

1. I've got a sneaky suspicion I also jacked up one of the front wheels, but I could be wrong - Others with better memories/knowledge will chip in I'm sure.
2. Mines been off more time than a barmaid's proverbials! The first time, I used a puller but since then just a simple few taps.
3. Not had that problem. Use some plus gas and be patient and you will be fine.

I was told by THE TOP expert on this that he only ever blows the clutch pack through with compressed air. This is all I have ever done but next time, partly out of curiosity, I do plan to split the clutch pack and clean each friction disc with brake cleaner.

Flange holding tools are TOTALLY unnecessary. Put the Haldex in a vice and screw 2 of the 6 bolts back into the flange (Not opposite each other). The you can put a bar/jacking handle against these 2 bolts and your socket and breaker/wrench on the nut. If you line it up correctly you can pull the 2 together to crack off the nut and then, at the end, pull the 2 together to torque the nut back up.  FL2 HSE Auto Galway Green
Evoque SD4 Auto Blue.
FL1 HSE TD4 Manual Black - Gone.
RR Classic V8 EFI - Gone

Bobupndown wrote:

1. If the car is jacked up and on axle stands with rear wheels off the ground will the diff turn in order to get at all 6 retaining bolts on the prop shaft by turning one of the rear wheels with autobox in Neutral. (I dont fancy having to physically move the car to get at the 6 bolts!).

The FL2 is normally FWD. The prop shaft is permanently connected to the gearbox but only connects to the rear diff when the haldex is activated to create the 4WD. So to turn the prop shaft you need to raise and rotate a front wheel as turning a rear wheel wont affect the prop shaft.

Thanks jules!  Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

jules wrote:

Bobupndown wrote:

1. If the car is jacked up and on axle stands with rear wheels off the ground will the diff turn in order to get at all 6 retaining bolts on the prop shaft by turning one of the rear wheels with autobox in Neutral. (I dont fancy having to physically move the car to get at the 6 bolts!).

The FL2 is normally FWD. The prop shaft is permanently connected to the gearbox but only connects to the rear diff when the haldex is activated to create the 4WD. So to turn the prop shaft you need to raise and rotate a front wheel as turning a rear wheel wont affect the prop shaft.

With the Autobox in neutral and both front wheels on the ground, the propshaft should turn freely? Or am I missing something?

Edit: Maybe not as neutral only disengages the engine from the gearbox.  2013 SD4 SE (hers)
2013 SD4 HSE (mine)
Ex: 2008 D3 V8 HSE
EX: 2000 D2 TD5

The Torque is transmitted thus:

Crankshaft > Torque convertor/clutch > gearbox > PTU > front drive shafts & prop shaft > Haldex unit > Rear diff > rear drive shafts.

The front wheels and prop shaft are connected permanently via the PTU differential and cannot be disconnected from each other by altering the gearbox.
So you need to lift a front wheel to rotate the prop shaft.
Just as you would lift a rear wheel to turn the prop shaft (via the rear differential) of a conventional RWD car. Jules

Thanks Jules, I wrote without engaging my brain first!  2013 SD4 SE (hers)
2013 SD4 HSE (mine)
Ex: 2008 D3 V8 HSE
EX: 2000 D2 TD5

no worries - SWMBO says I do it all the time Jules

So Haldex out today, oil removed - quite black, filter changed, pump removed and screen filter (which was about 50% blocked) cleaned.
A bit of a pain to do, not difficult just more involved than it needs to be with the big flange preventing the pump coming out and the filter inacessible on the top. Bought a bearing puller in order to remove the flange and it came off really easily, probably would have tapped off but another tool in the garage never goes amiss
Next jobs diff oils and autobox oil changes. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Bob
Thanks for note on condition of filter, etc.
What sort of mileage had your FL2 done. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

65000. I'll do it more regularly now, 40000 is probably ideal?
I did my wife's VW Tiguan first at 60000 and the oil in hers at that stage was golden and looked like new, the Freelander's definitely did not, it was pretty black.



 Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)