Hello All
I am a new member and have not long had a really nice hse sd4 , I have had a couple of days when the fuel gauge has gone from full ( when the tank is full) to half with the corespnding lowering of range.

I have read all of the threads on the issue and what is required to fix it possibly. What I would like to know is if anyone on the forums has changed the fuel sender/s and if they have, did you have the wiring issue done at the same time. I have a good local garage that is willing to change the sender or even both if I have to, but thought it would be a waste of time if I did this and then the wiring was still causing a problem.

I would have a go at the wiring myself if I could do it from the inspection panel under the rear seat but it does not look like that will be a possibility given the space.

Any replies would be welcome thanks

Tony

I had this when I got my FL2 as well. Was done under warranty and the wiring mod was done. Would make sense to do the mod if you can. FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - so many issues
2019 DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental
Now greatly regret selling the Outlander. MPG of the FL2 is atrocious and so are the fuel bills. Fun though 😎
Couldn’t afford the fuel bills so back to an older Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Significantly better than I remembered it to be…

http://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/userp...stem~1.pdf

Fuel Gauge wiring is a known problem. It needs attention at fuel tank end and there is a Technical Bulletin and fix for it.

TECHNICAL BULLETIN
LTB00566v6
04 JUL 2014

Get the Wiring Fixed ASAP.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic30934.ht...+technical

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic31656.html?highlight=fuel+gauge

Plenty of information on forum

https://www.freel2.com/forum/search.php?se...rch_time=0 FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Thanks to those who have responded, I will look into the links attached.
I am not too happy to have to change the pump sender unit unless it really needs doing but I will at a push.

My biggest issue is that if the unit is removed/replaced and the garage I use can't do the wiring mod I am going to be left with a huge bill from LR to do that at a later date if the pump unit does not solve the issue. How difficult is the wiring mod to do. I am more than capable of fitting the bullet connectors myself but I dont know if all the wiring inside has to be done with the pump out and then finished at a point where it is re fitted or not.
I can't imagine the garage is going to be happy with me messing around with the wiring while they try to change the pump unit around me.
Does the second sender also have to come out when changing the main one or is there no known issue with it?

very grateful to all who have replied

Tony

This link has the full method described.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic12990.ht...;start=120 FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Its not a hard job to do yourself, just time consuming. Fuel tank needs to be taken out so run close to empty before you start, the rest should syphon out when you disconnect the fuel lines. Best to get the special tool to remove the sender unit. Don't get one marked Land Rover as you will be ripped off as usual. I purchased exactly the same tool but marked for Mercedes from eBay for approximately £18. You will require a new o ring and some bolts for fuel tank support that should be replaced.
Back part of the exhaust needs to be removed and the prop shaft disconnected at the haldex and moved to one side but have it supported with an axel stand or similar.
If you follow Divewallys post you can't go wrong.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Hi again and thanks for the links and advice.

I was wondering about the wiring issue, I see from the instructions that you remove the joiner clips etc, and I can see the clip on top of the pump from the access panel in the rear floor.
What I am unsure of is if there are connectors inside the tank. I was sort of assuming that the wires inside fitted onto the internal part of the blue clip socket on top of the pump.

Am I correct in thinking that as long as you note which wire goes to which on the outside and inside of the tank and that you use diesel resistant bullet connectors then you just connect everything together before you finally re fit the pump and sender unit.

If that is the case then how do you seal up the gap where the socket connector went? Having not ever removed a pump etc I am not sure how the wiring is attached from the pump to the loom so please bear with me on this.

Its not like the old days when you just opened the boot and undid a few screws and hey presto out came your sender unit.

Thanks to all for the help.

Tony

From what I remember the problem area is the connection between the two floats. Fuel gets in causes an effy contact which gives you the erratic reading. Note the wires, cut off the connection and solder the ends together, seal with fuel resistant shrink tube. Bit fiddly as not much play but can be done.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Yes it’s possible ,my local garage that I’ve used for years did mine last year . £140 total bill for labour and connectors. He said there’s no need to remove the tank . I think the crazy prices LR quote to do the job is a con. And they probably fit new sender units that are unnecessary .

CED. How did the garage do the work without removing the tank? The inspection from under the rear seat does not give the required access. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Hi Again all

Thanks once again for the replies. I will look into getting the wires sorted, I don't have an issue trying to do that myself. The bigger issue is getting the tank out. I would be very interested to know how it could be done without dropping the tank given the limited room.

I did think of cutting out a bigger panel with a monodex cutter and then fabricating a replacement that could be bolted back and sealed. Not sure if this would compromise the integrity of the floor but it would at least mean I could get the wires and the senders out from above once all of the pipes were disconnected.

Has anyone on here done this mod to the wiring without dropping the tank and if you have I would really like to know how you did it?

Thanks to all as ever
Regards

Tony

I am about to do this work, one of my senders reads open circuit at the conn3ctor on top of the tank, have fitted a 180ohm resistor temporarily. I have read that the tank can just be released from its mountings and will sit on the prop shaft, allowing enough room through the rear seat access hole, can anyone confirm this ? Cheers ? Freelander 2, Nissan Elgrand Autech Rider.

Hi Spuddyo
Its better to take the tank out completely as it takes a lot of force to remove the flange holding the sender unit. Easier to do it on the ground or bench. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Spuddyo wrote:

I am about to do this work, one of my senders reads open circuit at the conn3ctor on top of the tank, have fitted a 180ohm resistor temporarily. I have read that the tank can just be released from its mountings and will sit on the prop shaft, allowing enough room through the rear seat access hole, can anyone confirm this ? Cheers ?