Put in a used one, the price difference is from £100 used up to about £500 new.

When easy start is sprayed in, the pressure does increase to 10,000+, but obviously drops immediately whenever the easystart stops spraying as everything just cuts out.

Im bleeding fuel through the filter fine with no issues, so im not sure if that would suggest any issues with the fuel tank sensors. (guage says i have about 1/4 a tank in there too).

Are you happy that the fuel was bled through the filter properly? When I replaced mine it started initially and then stopped... it cranked over and over and never started....
I had to physically use a high volume suction pump to draw the fuel through enough...

After doing this it fired up first time...

Yeah I can appreciate that I did the same with ours, I think replace the cam sensor then if still no difference I think you may have a weak high pressure pump.

Ill be putting in a new fuel filter (more just for sanity sake at this point) after ive changed the cam sensor, but yeah i have no reason to think the fuel hasnt been bled through properly.

Quick query, how are you guys bleeding? Ive been using a hand pump, like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ePathChina%C2%AE-...amp;sr=8-3

And pulling through the fuel, after the pump and the other end of the tub in a container for the fuel pulled through, then reconnecting.

Sounds like you’ve got fuel then....I use the Sealey version of this...
Teko Hand Pump 1500 ml Motor Oil Transmission Oil Radiator Antifreeze Rear Axle Oil Extraction Pump Transfer Pump Oil Extraction Pump https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07WFZH18S/ref...3DbRMPTDKY

Yeah using a hand primer, if you can put it ‘inline’ and pull fuel up and try and push it into the pump and try that.

JLR advise to use a hand primer and pulling the fuel from the tank and pushing it through the filter and onto the engine. That way any muck in the hand primer gets filtered out.

Works for me every time a change a fuel filter. Jules

When you do it inline, do you disconnect the outlet of the fuel filter, or leave it connected?

Unfortunately, I have no connections to get it inline before the filter. Just the hand primer and 2 8mm tubes

Ok, I tried both, I also bypassed the fuel filter all together by using some pipe from the feed pipe to a hand pump and another piece of pipe from the hand pump to the high pressure pump just to rule out a air leak anywhere around the filter.

So new camshaft sensor fitted, made no difference.

Just tried to bypass the filter to ensure fuel is getting pulled through, and it is pulling it fine.

Pressure readings are still at the 240kPa range while cranking.

Running out of idea's, and i think the next stage is to get it towed to a local garage to let them poke around at it (and probably charge me to replace the same stuff i already have )

Righto, final post for now as ive managed to put everything together before i get give up completely and get it towed to a garage.

Firstly, probably stupid, but meant i didnt have to dismantle sections. This is what i can see through the camshaft sensor port, does it look aligned as it should be?




Secondly, re fuel pressure. Stays at 240kPa while cranking. But if i leave it cranking for say 10 seconds, the pressure does actually increase. Not sure why, but it hits a point then gives up/cuts out:



Any other idea's or final bits of advice/checks before i completely give up??

Wrong data posted.  2013 SD4 SE (hers)
2013 SD4 HSE (mine)
Ex: 2008 D3 V8 HSE
EX: 2000 D2 TD5

fuel rail pressure is too low.
Check pressure at cranking and allow starter to stop and read rail pressure sensor voltage, shouldn't drop for 10 seconds.
If it does its loosing too much pressure.
Have you been able to set an amps clamp or scope onto the injectors ?
If the rail pressure is 50bar below or above a specific threshold at the required points the injectors switch off to save engine damage.

Have the injectors been removed ? I have had quite a few that wont start recently after injector removal due to the internal running tolerance is so fine that airborne particles in the air,( dust or particles from blue rag) or injectors laid on their side causes particles to shift and they literally seize. They must also be torqued to the exact spec as over tightening distorts the injector and can cause knocking and bad starting.
Seeing these problems daily now with all makes of diesels, due to lack of specific knowledge. Jaguar x-type sport gone
Jaguar x-type 2.2d sport one of my best cars ever sadly gone
Freelander 2 GS auto 2008 most unreliable ever ! gladly gone
Freelander 2 GS manual 2013 only time will tell !

Interesting pressure pictures...
It seems that the rail pressure is finally generated, but the questions is why it needs so many seconds to build up again....

There are 2 PWM valves, one on the hp pump and one on the right side of the fuel rail, that allow the fuel to return or to stay, in order to maintain/regulate the rail pressure.

Can you redirect the return fuel lines from the rail and from the pump in a separate container and see how it behaves? How much fuel is returned through there and when?

If all will be OK, I will still check the wires continuity, at least for CKP, CMP and these two valves I've mentioned above. All are crucial for engine starting.
The CKP and CMP for injection timing and the two PWM valves, especially the one on the rail, for maintaining proper pressure.

So, RAC guy was brilliant. Did as much testing as he could, and signs are pointing towards pressure regulator not working as it should.

It should have had a resistence of 4ohms, but was just reading ground/zero (trying to quote what i was told, so hopefully that makes sense).

So the order of checking for now is:
new fuel regulator
maybe another high pressure fuel pump
all fails, ECU problem/new ECU