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freelander2tom



Member Since: 24 Jul 2017
Location: West midlands
Posts: 37

United Kingdom 

Im still at a loose end with mine, iv just had a scrap car come in with the same engine, so first thing I'm going to do is compare the cams incase the lobes have moved, I highly dought it though as they look solid on these engines. Anymore info would be great if you find the problem before me lol.

Post #379762 13th Oct 2019 8:04 pm
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rottieman



Member Since: 11 Oct 2019
Location: swindon
Posts: 6

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e SE Manual Lago Grey

ok so i've stripped it and altered the cam timing for the third time,this time i put the cams in with the arrows facing up and in line with the two blue links as per the workshop manual,obviously i couldnt pin it because the holes dont line up,now there are five full links between the two coloured links,i used the third link of the five which lines up perfectly with the plastic lip on the facing edge of the cam chain tensioner,i found that point is centre for both cams, and if you look at the exhaust cam lobe on cylinder one which is gearbox end i believe,you can see it is just about to open the exhaust valve,and number four inlet valve is about to open which is the belt end, then its a case of fitting the timing belt,i took the starter out and pinned the crankshaft.
i haven't bled and started it yet,but there is plenty of compression,i'll see if i can get it to run tommorow if i have the time.
i hope you can understand this ok,i'm not the best when it comes to explaining things.

Post #379784 14th Oct 2019 3:27 pm
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Luke G



Member Since: 26 Jan 2019
Location: Australia
Posts: 88

2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Narvik Black

Good luck! If you get the chance take some photos and up load them, I’m a bit nervous about having to put mine back together and getting the timing right.

Post #379809 15th Oct 2019 9:22 am
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rottieman



Member Since: 11 Oct 2019
Location: swindon
Posts: 6

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e SE Manual Lago Grey

sorry guys but forget my last post because it is incorrect,i have loads of compression and i can turn the motor by hand,but the starter struggles to turn the motor over even with a jump pack connected,so ive reset the cams arrows straight up then turn them back quarter of a turn so that the pinholes do line up, the cams are sat ln their carriers loosely, no cam cover fitted,i've turned the camshafts as they would turn if the motor was running and followed the movement of each pair of cam lobes on one complete revolution and have satisfied myself that the cam positions are correct,the only thing that confuses me is why when the arrows are facing upwards you have to rotate the complete camshaft assembly back a quarter of a turn for the pin holes to line up, i bought a compression tester adapter for a 2.2 but sods law it doesn't fit my guage,so i have just bought a second hand set and am awaiting its arrival, oh the drama!!!

Post #380008 19th Oct 2019 1:01 pm
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freelander2tom



Member Since: 24 Jul 2017
Location: West midlands
Posts: 37

United Kingdom 

Ok last weekend stripped the land rover back down, removed the cams and compared them to another set, the cog on the cam that times the chain up had moved, so not the actual cam lobes had moved just the cog with the teeth on had spun, making it look like it was timed up correctly but it wasn't, now has compression ect, so to all that have this problem get yourself a new set of cams cheers

Post #381514 19th Nov 2019 8:36 pm
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