I know others have said that they had issues with headlight bulbs blowing which was sorted by a LR in line resistor part number LR081691. This part is no longer available but it looks like all they do is put a resistor in line to each headlight dropping the voltage enough to not blow the lamps. I would like to make up my own and wondered if anyone knew the value of the resistor, ohms and wattage.
Many thanks Tony  2014 Freelander 2 XS TD4
Firenze Red

LR talk about a "resistive wire" from what I can glean they have added two HB3 connectors and a short length of slightly thicker wire to the existing set up - you can down load the relevant service bulleting from here https://testing-public.carmd.com/Tsb/Download/110136/LTB00841NAS1 No Longer the owner of a 2013MY Fuji White GS

"Fiat Lux" a philosophy not a car

Thank you for the link, I tried hunting down earlier but only found the same in Russian I wonder what the resistance of the wire is??
Many thanks again
Tony 2014 Freelander 2 XS TD4
Firenze Red

Here is a back of a fag packet calculation (and I don't smoke)
if you have a 60 w bulb and it's running off say 14.5 volts then it's taking 4.13 amps

let's drop the voltage that the bulb sees by 1 volt (remember that light output drops exponentially so start with a small amount) then you need a 0.25 ohm resistor. which will be taking about 4.5 watts

Now go on ebay and find some resistance wire and don't blame me for any problems.

 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Quote:

Now go on ebay and find some resistance wire and don't blame me for any problems.

 2014 Freelander 2 XS TD4
Firenze Red

dorsetfreelander wrote:

Here is a back of a fag packet calculation (and I don't smoke)
if you have a 60 w bulb and it's running off say 14.5 volts then it's taking 4.13 amps

let's drop the voltage that the bulb sees by 1 volt (remember that light output drops exponentially so start with a small amount) then you need a 0.25 ohm resistor. which will be taking about 4.5 watts

Now go on ebay and find some resistance wire and don't blame me for any problems.

Add something like this, - 20 Gauge/AWG 0.8mm diameter 10cm 0.3 ohms

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nichrome-Wire-V...2448342087 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Presumably you just solder it in series. How hot would it get ? Jules

blacktiger wrote:

I found these on Fleabay.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172981678437

you might find that resistance wire doesn't solder well (but worth a try) in which case just use some choc block type screw connectors. Shouldn't get too hot since only dissipating about 4 watts (W=I^2* R). 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Black tiger they look what they had when they sorted mine IIRC.

Sorry couldn't be more help earlier  If it wasn't so bad it'd be funny.

🐑
Freelander 2 HSE auto 2014 ( Florrie ) ..... Try again.
Freelander 2 GS 2012...... Gone.

That's what I'm hoping. Thanks anyway. MY13 Santorini Black SD4 HSE

UPDATE
I plugged in the extra wiring that I got off fleabay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172981678437 back in May and although I haven't done many miles, I've just had another bulb blow. So it didn't work as supplied.
My next job is to solder some resistors into the wires. I want to reduce the Voltage down to 12v from the 14.6v I'm seeing when the engine is running. For that job I have just ordered these 5W-10Ohm. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DL8534B/ref...11_TE_item
This is, of course. an experiment and we see what it does. As I've written before, I don't drive too often in the dark but if these resistors make the Lamps too dim, I'll probably fit some LED driving Lamps for main beam. MY13 Santorini Black SD4 HSE

Well that didn't work.
I soldered the 10 Ohm resistors into the extra piece of loom. The H/lights didn't come on at all and the resistor got too hot to handle.

Click image to enlarge

Just had both bulbs blow in my new-to-me 13 reg hse, and there's lots to read !
So, as I'm a retired electronics engineer, I thought I'd better pitch in with my 2-pennorth

The service bulletin with fitting instructions was very interesting as it shows the resistive cable being clipped below the lamp with no concern for anything being hot... so that means that there is very little resistance involved !

Note to blacktiger - 10 ohms is a far greater resistance than the bulb so I think you got your decimal point in the wrong place

Now, if LR thought the lights would still be acceptable with the resistance in series, then it will only be like losing less than a volt.
The heat in the bulb is proportional to the power consumed, which is V^2 / R so to reduce the bulb temperature it wont need much voltage reduction.
If we assume 60W and 13V then R(bulb) = 2R8 (2.8 ohms) approx. and I = 4.65A approx.

For 0.5V lost across a resistor in series with the bulb, 0.5V / 4.65A = 0R1 approx (0.1 ohms blacktiger !)
The bulb would then be seeing about 12.5V, and hence consuming about 12.5^2 / 2.8 = 55.8W approx. - a 7%ish power reduction.
And the 0R1 resistance would consume 0.5^2 / 0.1 = 2.5W
That would get hot if its a resistor, so a 10W rated metal-body resistor would be the smallest I would consider, and a 25W rated one would be best, even if it is bigger.
If 2.5W was spread along both wires in a 30cm cable, then it may be fine... but it will probably need heat resistant sheathing ... which may be why they stopped issuing them???

The current when someone fits a 100W bulb to overcome the loss in light will make the series resistance consume 60% more power too! ie that 2.5W will go up to 4W which a 25W metal-clad power resistor will handle fine, but anything else will get very much hotter.