HYi Morayjohny

Yes the TD4 and the SD4 are essentially the same engine, there are some updates, the air intake pipe has lost it's "organ Pipe" arrangement for example, there are other tweaks like swirl valves, but the main one is the engine mapping. There has been lots of comment on this site over the years about mapping and if the manual transmission can take the added power of a remap, some believe that is why the SD4 is only fitted with auto transmission, it has greater power handling specs. however from a cam belt point of view, I believe they are the same with the same service interval.

Speaking of which, I said from memory the service interval was 120,00 but it would seem my memory is not what it was, but never mind, Yorky bob has taken the time to let us all know I was wrong and that was rubbish, it is 150,00, so sorry about that.

Having said all this, take a look around the site, search for your main questions and you may find someone has already asked it before, but enjoy your freely, my first was 8 years old, this one is just 4 but remember, the car is very very good.  MY2014 SD4 XS
Ipanema Sand

MY10 TD4-e GS Manual
Lago Grey Now retired after 8 trouble free years

dondiddy wrote:

So what drives the 2nd camshaft. Would it be a non servicing item like a timing chain perhaps?

Sorry York bob, but you flaming everyone is not really helpful to anyone.

Everyone has a voice, not just you.  MY2014 SD4 XS
Ipanema Sand

MY10 TD4-e GS Manual
Lago Grey Now retired after 8 trouble free years

Nothing here about servicing the cam shafts linking chain: My own Cam Belt and pulleys is being changed today, with added new water pump, crankshaft bolt and auxiliary belt. I am quite content with that and anyone who runs a CAM BELT to the anywhere near the spec is not doing themselves any favours. Do it early and avoid a catastrophic engine failure. My car is 6 years old this month and has travelled 71,000 miles. Should be all in at less than £350 but will update that when I get it back with its new MOT.

The intake and exhaust camshafts are manufactured from cast-iron. The 2 camshafts are mounted between the structural
camshaft cover and cylinder head, with each camshaft located in 5 machined bearing housings. Shell bearings are not used
in the bearing housings, the camshafts run directly in the aluminum bearing. Lateral movement of the camshafts is
controlled by No. 3 camshaft bearing, and is not adjustable. The bearing is manufactured on both camshafts to provide the
correct end-float.
• NOTE: In production, the camshaft end-float is 0.070 mm to 0.168 mm (0.003 in to 0.007 in). In service, if the end-float
is out of specification the camshaft(s) and/or cylinder head and structural camshaft cover may require renewal.
Each camshaft has 8 machined lobes formed in pairs along the length of the camshaft. The camshaft lobes operate the
inlet and exhaust valves through hydraulic lash adjusters and roller-type finger levers
A spur gear with 19 teeth is formed on the front end of each camshaft. The 2 gears are joined by a 40-link single row
timing chain. The 2 camshaft gears are marked with a timing mark that coincides with the 2 colored links on the camshaft
timing chain. A drive slot is formed in the rear end of each camshaft to provide the drive to the flange mounted vacuum
pump and high-pressure fuel pump. The vacuum pump is driven by the inlet camshaft; the high-pressure fuel pump is
driven by the exhaust camshaft.
The exhaust camshaft is driven by the crankshaft drive gear via a toothed timing belt. The exhaust camshaft pulley
contains 42 teeth and is keyed and bolted to the front of the exhaust camshaft. The intake camshaft is driven by the
exhaust camshaft via the single row chain.
The exhaust camshaft pulley is manufactured with cut-outs and a notch in the center hub. The cut-outs form the target
area for the CMP sensor. The notch provides the location for a camshaft timing pin special tool. The special tool is used in
conjunction with other special tools to set the exhaust camshaft during engine timing.
For further details on setting the engine valve timing, refer to the relevant Service Repair Procedures (SRP) manual. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Are you renewing the front crank and cam seals?

My car will not have them changed on it’s cam belt change. No precedent I known of for doing it. Is there one ? FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

It's just that they are easy to do at the same time as a timing belt. Mine were changed at 56'000 miles by a specialist garage under a previous owner when the timing belt was changed. They didn't however change the water pump. I wonder if the root cause of the whole exercise was a leaking seal. I am doing my timing belt and water pump change soon myself and will change both seals since it's only a ten minute job. I also have a good feeling about the exercise.

BTW On Wednesday I am having the leaking back Crank seal changed at 84'000 miles. So seals are foremost in my mind at the moment.

Due to issues I am no longer looking to increase the work in progress list as I have a big enough one on a vintage tractor but having farmed out the belt change I would hope the guy doing it would be reporting back if a seal was leaking while stripping Never come across your idea on the FL before but once you get to a certain point a few quid on seals may we’ll be a good idea. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

looking to get mine done , LR £404 +water pump + vat , local independent £650 with pump , 2nd local £440 +vat includes pump .

How hard is it to do ?

I found it a bit of a fiddle but straightforward. I did need a extra hand to set the tensioner. Through the years I have done five or six belt changes and waterpumps on different makes.

I did mine a few weeks ago. 2012 Evoque 2.2 SD4. I bought a complete Gates kit - Belt, jockey pulley, tensioner, water pump and crank bolt. £115. Replaced the antifreeze and auxiliary belt too. 58,000 miles but changed because it had reached 7 years old. Being in the trade I’ve done well over a hundred belt changes. This was more trouble than most but maybe I just had the hump because it was my own and I wasn’t getting paid!  Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

You could have paid yourself with the folding and given a bit of discount. win win situation.

tolley wrote:

looking to get mine done , LR £404 +water pump + vat , local independent £650 with pump , 2nd local £440 +vat includes pump .

How hard is it to do ?

Just had mine done €880, cambelt, waterpump, tensioner, full B service, gearbox oil change, but not Haldex due to the cost of the filter, €80 out here for LR or €60 from Volvo, no stock in Cyprus, will order from the UK and get it fitted, oil is €80 /5 ltr for engine, and gearbox about the same. my PC is slightly to the right of Genghis
2012 HSE SD4 In Orkney Grey now gone, best car ever.

Steve D wrote:

I did mine a few weeks ago. 2012 Evoque 2.2 SD4. I bought a complete Gates kit - Belt, jockey pulley, tensioner, water pump and crank bolt. £115. Replaced the antifreeze and auxiliary belt too. 58,000 miles but changed because it had reached 7 years old. Being in the trade I’ve done well over a hundred belt changes. This was more trouble than most but maybe I just had the hump because it was my own and I wasn’t getting paid!

Yeah but at least you put new parts on this one  Regards

David

Lovely i6 has now gone, but not me......

Please let me know if anything in my post offends you, as I may wish to offend you again......