A cheap VCU and cracked software is the reason most of you shouldn't play with SDD, but that's a whole different problem...

To be honest I don't use SDD for that reason. With cracked software any thing could happen & the connection I found was not always that reliable/stable. No such issues using Nanocom Evo though & have never had a programming issue, yet  (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Completely agree. We use an IID Pro and Autologic in our place

The back up and support from both tool manufacturers are 2nd, only to each other

If you have an issue with a cloned VCI or dodgy software, you have absolutely no back up or support

But thats getting off the BSU topic

Yes! Gentlemen. Please.

Very good points and interesting to, but trying to shed some much needed light on BSU's. Very much overlooked in any threads on all JLR sites that I have read. Maybe for you professionals out there a must, but I was looking for a wide field view of what's available and being used by all parties.

What do folks think of using this PSU on Amazon as a BSU?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B072J9..._qh_dp_hza

The output voltage can be regulated quite precisely it would seem and it seems to have very positive reviews, although not in the context of BSU for ECU flashing!

P.S. The same item would seem to be about a tenner more expensive on fleaBay

Perfect timing on this thread as i just found these in the 'to throw away pile' at work. Nothing wrong with them, just we don't run 12v equipment any more.

Any thoughts on wheather this would be suitable to hook up for car power while in SDD? Probably wouldn't need all 3?

WOW! You wouldn't want to carry it far but looks capable.
Have a read of the post by VANNY earlier in the thread. Gives a brilliant insight into current draw.

This looks like another possibility with less ‘fiddling’ required to set it up and use it. Around a hundred quid on fleaBay.

JLR do advise a minimum of 125A supply when connected to diag equipment...

That’s a lorra, lorra amps!

P.S. Can you add power supplies together, e.g. would three 40 amp power supplies give 120 amps?

JLR requirement is 125A now, but I'm pretty sure it was only 50A when the FL2 came out.


Just to be clear, it's not simply about how much current that a power supply can deliver, but how fast it can deliver it, ie how well it can regulate the power. To do that you need some pretty high quality components and potentially some big capacitors.

If you're looking at something priced under £500, you are probably just looking at a bench supply intended to deliver a constant voltage/current and not a Battery Support Unit.

I had a bench supply fail on me when flashing an engine ECU, the engine cooling fans kicked in at full speed and I'd forgotten to pull the fuse for them. The supply had more than required current capacity but simply couldn't ramp up fast enough, dragged too much power through an internal circuit and let the smoke out.


This is not to say that you'll have problems with the wrong sort of supply, CCF flash on an FL2 doesn't need much power so I sometimes don't put a supply on. Also I accept the risk of having to spend a few £000s if I get it wrong and can't bring a bricked IPC or BCU back to life.

This is all very informative, Vanny - thank you. Given what you say, is there any real benefit to hooking up a bench power supply or would it be a useful safety net against a less than perfect battery which would surely flag if there is any substantial draw on it?

Hmm, without wishing to be overly P.C., I would stick with what JLR recommend, and make damn sure you understand the risks/costs/implications of getting it wrong.

I'm in the fortunate position of having the genuine tools for SSD, and as has been pointed out, a cheap ass clone hardware and a dodgy copy of SSD already holds a lot of risk. Is the risk/reward worth it if it all goes wrong?

The BSU that was recommended by JLR when the FL2 came out is this one;

https://jlrequipment.service-solutions.com...-50%2FB-UK

No one, neither the manufacturer nor JLR would give me the actual output characteristics of this magical black box, but after years using them, I never had a problem with the genuine tools (just with my home lash ups!)

This is all new to me so I’m taking it very slowly. I just got my Chinese cable in the post today - my goodness, it says it’s a Drew Technologies Mongoose cable. What a lucky find I got the V130 software from a Jaguar Forum and it comes nicely wrapped in Virtual Box to run XP inside Win 7 and I’m pretty sure it’s clean and safe to use. Apart from general curiosity there are three things I’d like to be able to do:
1. Programme a new key as one of mine is dead.
2. Set the lights to Scandinavian mode (Volvo style).
3. Activate the clock in the panel display instead of just on the radio.

Are any of these likely to place a serious load on the system?

I'm not an expert at all... but I have done the key programming. That's quick and easy and you don't have to delve into the Engineer mode. Would imagine the Lights settings would be similar. Would be pretty confident of getting in and out again without any worries in 10mins, and didn't feel the need for a power supply.

Clock on dash is re-flashing... https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic19314.ht...ster+clock and I'd be more inclined to have a power supply for those kinda shenanigans.