.....why would my indicators stop flashing when I lock my car. The indicators still flash twice when I unlock and used to flash once when locking. Now they have stopped flashing on the locking sequence, but the car still locks. I tried doing a 'hard' reset by disconnecting the battery, but this made no difference.
Does anyone have an idea? -------------------------------------------------------------
1965 Series IIa Safari LWB White - gone
1982 RR 2 door Sahara dust - gone
2000 Freelander 1 3 door white gold - gone
1995 Discovery 1 200Tdi Biaritz Blue - gone
2009 FL2 TD4 HSE Stornoway Grey

Failed door lock, usually. Do all 4 doors lock OK?

Mikey, all doors do lock and unlock ok, except I have noticed that when opening the drivers door (from the inside, after it has automatically locked), the passenger doors do not unlock. I then have to press the unlock button on the key fob to unlock the passenger doors. I did read in one of the previous posts that the actuator just needs a squirt of WD40. Which is the actuator? is it the 'lever' adjacent to the inner door handle? -------------------------------------------------------------
1965 Series IIa Safari LWB White - gone
1982 RR 2 door Sahara dust - gone
2000 Freelander 1 3 door white gold - gone
1995 Discovery 1 200Tdi Biaritz Blue - gone
2009 FL2 TD4 HSE Stornoway Grey

[Mikey, all doors do lock and unlock ok, except I have noticed that when opening the drivers door (from the inside, after it has automatically locked), the passenger doors do not unlock. I then have to press the unlock button on the key fob to unlock the passenger doors. I did read in one of the previous posts that the actuator just needs a squirt of WD40. Which is the actuator? is it the 'lever' adjacent to the inner door handle?]

I had exactly the same. WD40 did not help. My diagnostic tool indicated a problem with the door lock motor. I replaced the door lock assembly and problem solved. 2013 SD4 SE (hers)
2013 SD4 HSE (mine)
Ex: 2008 D3 V8 HSE
EX: 2000 D2 TD5

Hi
the "Actuator" is inside the door, its the motor you hear working the lock


you could try watching each handle (the part under the lever you pull to open the door from inside) when you lock the car with the remote if it moves a bit more each time you press the remote button it could point to a lazy motor /actuator which is not Fully locking the car
enough to lock it from outside but not enough to register the indicator flash

(mine used to take 2 or 3 presses of the remote on the front passenger door to fully unlock, Now replaced)

Dankie Carel and Thanks rivervblanche for the very useful info. It sounds like I will probably have to change the door lock motor.
How easy/hard is it do do this, what parts do I need? -------------------------------------------------------------
1965 Series IIa Safari LWB White - gone
1982 RR 2 door Sahara dust - gone
2000 Freelander 1 3 door white gold - gone
1995 Discovery 1 200Tdi Biaritz Blue - gone
2009 FL2 TD4 HSE Stornoway Grey

I just replaced the door lock assembly. No other parts required. I found a lot of info on the two video links below.
On other blogs I have read (and followed the advice) to first lower the window by about 10 cm for good access to the white and yellow clips that connects the glass to the winder mechanism. Accessible through the hole of the removed speaker.
Last part of good advice is to remove the door handle completely together with the door lock. Both cables can then be disconnected from the old unit and re-connected to the new door lock unit on the bench. MUCH easier!
Good luck!


&t=252s 2013 SD4 SE (hers)
2013 SD4 HSE (mine)
Ex: 2008 D3 V8 HSE
EX: 2000 D2 TD5

Thanks Carel, that's brilliant info and advise. I've just bought the mech off ebay and a set of trim removal tools, so should be all set to give this a go this weekend.  -------------------------------------------------------------
1965 Series IIa Safari LWB White - gone
1982 RR 2 door Sahara dust - gone
2000 Freelander 1 3 door white gold - gone
1995 Discovery 1 200Tdi Biaritz Blue - gone
2009 FL2 TD4 HSE Stornoway Grey

Oh, I forgot to add that by sliding the window completely out of the door frame (twist and upwards) is also making things much easier to work with inside the door.
I was once again impressed by the build quality of the Freelander 2. Electric harnesses, connectors, door fully painted behind the door panel etc. 2013 SD4 SE (hers)
2013 SD4 HSE (mine)
Ex: 2008 D3 V8 HSE
EX: 2000 D2 TD5