Hello!

I have a problem with my FL2.
When I start engine everything works fine - the acceleration is normal.
But after about 20-30min driving car starts to loose power and boost.
It takes about 20sec to accelerate from 40kmph to 60kmph, however in 'normal' conditions it takes seconds.

And this is continous process - I mean, after ~30min it starts to accelerate slower and slower...
Even worse, sometimes when I press acceleration pedal it starts slowing down...
It's even faster to accelerate from 130kmph to 150kmph than from 40kmph to 60kmph ;s
Sometimes it doesn't have power to go up the hill/mountain - its reducing gears, got like 4k rpm and slowly going up... it's totally insane ;s

When I press acceleration pedal RPM goes up, but speed is slowly going up and up and takes forever..
I can even put the pedal max, RPM goes like 4k and speed is slowly going up...

I've already been in service with this issue and replaced a lot of components - whole turbocharger, a lot of sensors (crankshaft sensor for ex), inlet hoses, regenerated injectors, cleaned EGR and crankcase.
Nothing from this helped...

No errors reported via OBD2.
Software of all components flashed (as said to me in service).
No problems reported...

The problem seems to be connected with air preasure/temperature (as far as I observed this)
For ex. when I was driving whole day in 30 deg celcius outside, car has this issue.
But when I go up the mountains (like +2000m) in the evening, the problem seems to be gone and car started to behave normally - accelerating really fast.

I've already been in, like, two services/car mechanics with this issue and no-one knows what's going on here....

It's Land rover Freelander 2, 2007, TD4 2.2 S, Automatic gearbox.


I write this here, because maybe someone of You would be able to help me/give any recommendation about this issue?
Thanks in advance!

Change the fuel filter.

Use only original equipment ones (Purflux FCS604) as they have inside a thermal/bimetal valve that allows a small part of the (hot) returned fuel to fall back inside the filter to warm it up in the cold winter days.

If that fuel bypass valve is malfunctioning (usually in other manufacturers filters) and remains open, the fuel used by the engine became hotter and hotter (as it is recirculated locally) and the ECU will slowly reduce the engine torque generation in order to prevent damage to engine components. Therefore the need of the autobox to change down in order to have enough torque to the wheels.

Wow, thanks for reply!

I must say it looks like reasonable theory.
Everyone always wanted to replace things near engine (like turbocharger or inlet hoses) so far, so your theory will be something new

I'll try Your recommendation and write about results after replacing.

Thanks again!

The little thing with an electrical connector above fuel filter is the fuel temperature sensor.
The reduction in torque when the fuel becomes too hot is a real thing, based on a proper map inside the engine ECU.
And taking into account that the things start to happen after a while (time needed for the closed circuit circulated fuel to heat up) and when cold outside all seems to be almost OK, makes me think that the culprit is that thermal valve / fuel filter.

I just independently resolved this same situation, having foolishly used a cheap filter. Hours of analysis, ultimately coming down to that tiny valve in the filter. Unfortunately for me one of the side effects of the engines reaction was to destroy/cook my gear box atf fluid through the extra work it needed to do to get my caravan (trailer) up and down the devon hills.

Anyhow I wish I had read this post first, but sadly in the huge amount of googling I did during my debugging I didn't find it

James

I had same problem with reduced performance message on a 2010 FL2 I recently purchased. Replaced diesel filter with genuine LR filter and all is well.