Thanks guys.

For info, my car is a MY14 and I had the fault appear first at 34K miles and 6 months out of warranty (last summer).

I used the forum and found it was a commonish fault.

It went off after a week or so, but I was always worried about it.

So when it went in for service this March, I got the oil / filter changed which turned out to be a waste of £100.

The 'gearbox fault, traction reduced' warning returned on my way home from the garage.

Guess the new oil just flushed more dirt from the clutch pack and finally blocked the pump properly as it remained on since then.

So as everyone on here has stated, as a minimum, take out the pump and clean the screen when changing the oil and filter, but the best thing to do is remove the unit completely and clean everything.

I actually bought a rear diff c/w Haldex unit from a breakers yard.

It only cost me the price a new pump would have.

With that unit, I took the Haldex apart and cleaned / serviced it so when I got to working on the car I was just exchanging the complete Haldex unit.

If I still have the car in another 20k miles, I'll just swap the unit again and sell the spare one and diff when I get rid of the car.

I'm going to strip the one I took from my car and take / post photos of how I did it

More to come...

Has yours got the huge Flange on the propshaft end?
If so, how did you get it off ?
On mine its impossible to get the pump out without removing the flange first. So I still need to do the pump filter next time I get the Haldex off. Jules

Hi Jules,

Yes, its the late model year with the extra flange thingy on it.

It took me an hour to remove 6 bolts and a day to remove the flange, but now I know what to do I think I could do the whole thing again in less than 2 hours.

You have to 'push' the flanges apart, rather than hitting them apart (the older Gen 3 approach).

Thing is, the Haldex flange cup is so deep, you have to have enough free movement in the prop shaft (this was my mistake and the reason it took so long).

The prop shaft is in 3 pieces, with 2 universal joints and the first part of the trick is to remove the brackets that hold the prop shaft guides in place. There are two brackets, just remove the bolts and brackets and the prop shaft will rest on the exhaust.

Then you have to 'push' the flanges apart.

For this, you work from the back of the flange cup.

There are 2 untapped holes, you put an 8 x 30mm bolt in one of the holes and use 2 x bolt reinforcement plates that you took off earlier.




Then you use either two of the torx bolts you removed from the flange or another couple of bolts that fit along with 2 of the bolt reinforcement plates (I made one from stronger steel to stop them bending)




Insert the bolts / plates so they will push the bolt through the unthreaded hole when you tighten them







You have to do this twice (for each unthreaded hole)

As long as you have dropped the prop shaft first, the prop shaft flange will pop out of the haldex flange cup thingy when you tighten the bolts.

This is the bit I struggled with but once I'd dropped the prop shaft, it had enough space to pop out.

Hope this helps

Cheers

M_W

Forgot to add, spray in some WD40 or similar release agent into the untapped holes before you start

Mustang - that really useful, many thanks.  Jules

Mustang - Did you then need to remove the big flange from the haldex input shaft in order to remove the pump and clean its filter ? Jules

Yeah, unfortunately you do.

At this point, its easier to just continue and remove the entire Haldex assembly for cleaning.

The amount of crud in the oil that cannot be drained will block the pump mesh again quicker than if you clean the entire unit so its worth doing.

That crud is a mix of wear and tear AND additives in Haldex oil, which will liquefy when the Haldex is working.
Look for SSM67617.

This: http://www.freel2.com/forum/post301579.html#301579

Lubricant additives are supposed to help the lubricant last longer or keep the moving parts clean - I suspect its more likely an excuse by LR not to do costly work for free.

By coincidence, I was watching Wheeler Dealers last night and they were working on an Audi TT.

They did a 20,000 mile service on the Haldex which was just an oil change - good luck with that !!

Raywin wrote:

Whine on my diff started to get much worse quickly, I was still trying to convince myself it was the offside wheel bearing but I went ahead and took out the diff.
Yes the pinion was very notchy when you turn it and the oil had a certain sparkle to it, so I took it to an independent garage near York where they re built it for £299, I drilled the housing and will tap it 14 x 1.5 mm and fir a Gold Plug magnetic plug, didn’t have the tap on time so they left the covet loose for me to tighten up.
Picked it up and they told me the failed bearing was one of the newer "heavy duty" bearings but was well shot, pinion and crown wheel were good so it was ready to go.
greased some kitchen paper and put it over the hole inside then tapped it out ( keeping it square with a 6" square) cleaned every trace of swarf out and put the cover back, Panic it was so tight I couldn’t turn the input shaft, took the cover back off and checked for any problems then slowly pulled it up again cross tightening it slowly, still tight, called the garage and they re assured me they are very tight many people panic but not to worry.
Fitted it back in filled with the Castrol EPX and haldex oil, ran it half a mile then engaged hill decent and drove down onto my drive, did the business with the haldex oil top up and syringe out.
tried it today and its so quiet, the noise had increased slowly and you dent realise how bad it is but now it sounds fine.
One very strange thing, MPG had fallen away to about 30 to 32 according to the dash board, drove it about 5 miles last night to test it and it returned 37 on the dash board
Will update to see how it goes over the next few months.

I thought the only bolt on the front transfer box was for the filler hole, and so above the fluid line. Or are you drilling a new drain hole?

No I used a syringe to get the old oil out through the filler hole, it's a bit slow but it works.

As promised, here are some photo's showing how to service the Haldex unit

First the oil I removed.

This oil is 2 months old - you can see the suspended crud




And here is some of the crud after I passed it through a crude filter