Can someone please confirm the correct size tool combination required to remove the alternator's clutch pulley from the alternator?

Is it a 33-spline socket over a t50 torx bit or an m10 multispline bit??

Car is a 2008 model 2.2 td4 160hp.

M10 bit/33 spline tool.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/M10-Altern...st=ae803_3 (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Thanks, chap! I'll get it ordered...

If the M10 is too long, you will have to cut it down to change the pulley in situ. If you have the alternator off, then no issue.

Nick (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

I'm aiming to do it in situ.. am i correct in thinking this is a reverse thread to remove? (Clockwise to remove)

No, it's a r/h thread. Depending on which tool is held stationary will determine direction to unscrew, if you get my drift. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Thanks for the heads up.
Best to replace belt and tensioner too? (Dealer did timing belt, water pump and aux belt/tensioner only 3 month ago...)

If the belt & tensioner are that new I wouldn't bother replacing them again, unless they have a problem. Make sure you refit the aux belt the same way round that it comes off. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

I know that this is an old thread, but it helped me as I undertook this task today. I had read up on the subject before starting, and found a lot of people who struggled to get the pulley off, even with the alternator removed from the vehicle.

To my mind, having the alternator fitted to the vehicle helped in 2 ways. The alternator was held securely, which is difficult off the car in a vice. Secondly, I left the serpentine belt in place, whilst I cracked the pulley free, hopefully adding resistance to the pulley.

I tackled the job from underneath the wheel arch, with the vehicle on an axle stand. I had to cut the pulley tool down to size as described above. A 17mm spanner on the pulley tool outer, and a 10mm six sided 3/8 socket on a long ratchet on the inner. Held the pulley in place and turned the alternator spindle towards the rear of the car.

It required about as much force as I could muster given the awkward angle, but cracked free.

Simple job of removing the old belt and replacing the pulley with the new one. I used the same method to torque the new pulley up as to remove, but substituted the long 3/8 ratchet with a torque wrench, and this time ( pushing towards the front of the vehicle on the alternator spindle ) the outer tool 17mm spanner was braced by the inner wing, with a piece of wood between it and the spanner.

New belt and tensioner finished the job off. Took about an hour and a half, at a steady pace, in a very cold day. Thanks to all who contributed before and helped me.

I've had to pull my alternator off. I couldn't crack it with a half inch breaker bar from the wheel arch. I pulled the alternator off and tries a battery, an electric AND an air impact gun, still can't free it off. Going to take it to a mechanic mate tomorrow and keep my fingers crossed.